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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, my car needs teh paint/body work(would post pics but my main comp just shit the bed so no hard drive with pics!). I have 0 experience with this on cars. The biggest thing I've ever done was probably my old Warrior's frame. For now I'm just gonna do my hood and trunk cause they're the worst(they're faded down in a few spots to the primer).

I need to know a few things before i start experimenting:
-Any special sandpaper I should use/what grit
-How far down should it be sanded?
-When I begin the paint process, how many lairs of primer/paint/clearcoat should there be?
-Any special types of primer/paint/clearcoat I should use?
-Car is Grenada Black Pearl, so need to know what specific color primer I need
-What would be an ideal weather condition to do this in(would be in my garage with the hood off, but I know to much humidity or something will make the paint not stick)
-Also, any brands people have good experience with for any of this stuff?

Probably forgetting some shit I'll need and need to do, so ANY info on this would be awesome and very appreciated. Thanks. :)

p.s. someone sell me a driver side front fender, any color, no rust/dents
 

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So, my car needs teh paint/body work(would post pics but my main comp just shit the bed so no hard drive with pics!). I have 0 experience with this on cars. The biggest thing I've ever done was probably my old Warrior's frame. For now I'm just gonna do my hood and trunk cause they're the worst(they're faded down in a few spots to the primer).

I need to know a few things before i start experimenting:
-Any special sandpaper I should use/what grit
-How far down should it be sanded?
-When I begin the paint process, how many lairs of primer/paint/clearcoat should there be?
-Any special types of primer/paint/clearcoat I should use?
-Car is Grenada Black Pearl, so need to know what specific color primer I need
-What would be an ideal weather condition to do this in(would be in my garage with the hood off, but I know to much humidity or something will make the paint not stick)
Prep work is the most important step of any painting process. It should in no way be half-assed or rushed. Most important is to take your time if you want it to look nice. Humidity may affect it, makes sure to clean all the dust out of your garage first, and idealy tape plastic over everything so that there is no over spray, and so settled dust can't be kicked up and put on the car while it's drying.

If you want to start the paint properly, the paint should be sanded off all the way to the metal, but the easiest way to do that is to use paint remover to pull it all off, then use bondo to fix any dents and small dings in the metal. Run your hand over it for a long time. Your fingers are extremely sensitive to any change in a surface, and can detect a millionth of an inch difference, that cannot really be measured. So you feel that metal up until you are sure you have scarred it for life. :)

If not, sand the whole car down to a smooth surface and make sure there's nothing with wax or anything like that.

Use 2 coats of primer. 1 to do over the part, and the second to fill in anything you might have missed. The paint and clear depend. Some paints have clear coat integrated into them that evaporates onto the top, and is a popular thing for European car manufacturers, as it shortes the painting process and looks, and acts the same as a coat, coat, clear setup.

If you're using integrated clear coats, shoot 3 coats on it and it will be plenty. IF not, do 3 coats, and after the second, use a fine grit WET sandpaper to clean up any orange peel or flaking/ and it most likely will happen. There's always one little spot of orange peel. Spray your third, and if you want, a fourth coat after the final coat, check the whole part/car for runs/orange peel, etc, and get rid of it, polish up the part you sand to flex it to where it needs to be, don't use polish per-say but what I mentioned earlier.

Wait a while for it to dry. Depending on paint, the time will vary. If you spray clear too early, the clear will mix with the wet paint and turn into a gross mess that will cause you to start all over. Spray your two or three sets of clear coat, then go over the whole thing with REALLY REALLY FINE grit steel wool to take any abnormalities out, then clean it after it's fully dry with a soft sponge/terry and water. DO NOT USE SOAP!!!!! OR ANYTHING BESIDES WATER, and make sure you dry it with one of those leathery soft absorbant cloths.

After you finish painting, do not wash the car for 6 months, you can hose it off and wipe off dirt, but no washing, and no TOUCHING!!! You can move the dust around and cause little scratches.

As for GRITS on sand paper, always start from lowest number to highest, and make sure you have an orbital sander on hand, a pice of wood or straight-hand sander, to make smooth flat lines, and papers ranging from 80 to 320, and then the finest stuff you can find that's WET/DRY for cleaning up orange peel. As for steel wool, I think you will need #000 or something finer. Yes... wool has a 000 grit, basically. when you are sanding the car/part to begin with, go down to about 320, and after that you might as well just rub a piece of printer paper on the car, because after 320, the coats of paint are going to cover the last bits of unequality. MAKE SURE YOU FIX MOST, if NOT ALL IN THE PREP STAGE... AND BUY LOTS OF TAPE!!!!

I suggest you find a friend who has done it before (and did a good job) or take it to a professional. It's always better to have help.

Knowledge: 5 years car and boat painting experience.


Also, pearl based colors have different primers depending on effect. Usually it's a brown primer, and sometimes gray, you'd have to go to Honda, pick up a can of the color, and if you're lucky, ask them what the primer is that is necessary. Some Honda dealers are jack-asses and won't tell you what kind of primer so that it turns out just a little different (all car colors are copyrighted-Subaru blue and another blue may look the same, but they aren't), because they want you to take it to their body shop and have it done there.

If it's a black pearl, it's most likely a black or dark grey primer, but all car manufacturers are different.
 

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1st off, that's wicked bad sunburn and you need to just peel all the paint off that stuff. Otherwise the surface will be hard to work with. AS for the fender... you need a new on to put it in level with the door. For the other fender, that tear can be fixed if you pull all the paint off the area, hammer out as much as you can, grind off and edges and bondo the tear.

Since it's a DEL sol which is a small car, just re-paint the whole car man. The work you got cut out for you, you need to do the whole car for it to look right, one little piece or two will match ok, but that's most of the car that needs to be fixed. And if you do that, you can use whatever primer and paint you want, including the black pearl if you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I'm tight on money at the moment, MIGHT be coming into about a grand in a week or 2 though. But I figured it'd only be about $100 to fix the hood and trunk up real quick so it doesn't look as shitty, then once I get enough to do the whole car and fix the body I would. Any rough guesses on how much the hood and trunk would be, and how much the whole car would be? Thanks for the help so far though, very informative. =D <333333
 

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I just got an SUV painted for a friend ENTIRELY for $800.

Can't imagine a car that small being too much. Paint only costs $35 for them, the rest is work. Check out some shops around you. Skip on Honda, they'll want $12,000 or something.:DLiterally.

Now, the thing that kills you in price is having the door jams or the engine bay painted, which it seems like you don't need, and if it's just spot fixes, like the hood and all that, not too much, they may charge you a bit to fix the fender, so I'd find a new fender.

If you're not going to do it all now, I'd hold off on it and just deal, because you'll paint the two pieces... and they look better than the rest of the car... then you want to paint the car... then it doesn't match the hood and trunk, or worse... later you decide you want to paint it green or something... and then realize it was a waste to have the stuff fixed and painted black, when you could've just painted it green, ya know waht i'm saying?

If there wasn't the damage to the two fenders and everything, I'd say it's worth it to fix the hood and trunk, but the fenders make it a harder thought process.
 

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Prep? Just put some 'tussin on it.








j/k. I spray painted a del sol trunk that looked exactly like that.


After some 400 grit followed by 600 grit. I applied roughly 1 full can of flat black, i sprayed it evenly over the trunk and let it sit for about 3 hours. then followed it (while still tacky) with a full can of walmart .99 clear coat then let it dry for about 24 hours. After that I wet-sanded with 2000 grit while lightly and evenly sanded the trunk. This will cause a foggy finish. Finally just a microfiber cloth and some buffing compound ($4).
And youre done!
 

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I also did the spoiler on my civic just as a test. One of these days I swear im gonna spray paint something sober, I cant wait to see how good it will look.
Heres my spoiler I spray painted with autozone rattle-can paint.



And my friend's same paint code acura full trunk.
 

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kabooki=awesome, paint my car for me? I gotz beers and huers for yaz :ninja
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
That trunk looked pretty decent. Think you could take a few pics in the daylight from a short distance away and right up close to it(see the texture of how it came out) when you get a chance? =D <3 I'll PROBABLY spend the $10 and do a quick fix like that til the weather starts getting better and I get my money and fix the body damage. Rather have it not look like complete shit and get a little experience and then just take on the whole car once I get the money to and figure out what color I'd wanna do. Thanks a lot for the help and input. Serj, got any pics of cars similar to mine that you've done? Just curious to see what it'd look like proffessionaly done. xD Thanks again.

Paint my car....I gots a drug dealer across the street and will let you have your way with me <3
 

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That trunk looked pretty decent. Think you could take a few pics in the daylight from a short distance away and right up close to it(see the texture of how it came out) when you get a chance? =D <3 I'll PROBABLY spend the $10 and do a quick fix like that til the weather starts getting better and I get my money and fix the body damage. Rather have it not look like complete shit and get a little experience and then just take on the whole car once I get the money to and figure out what color I'd wanna do. Thanks a lot for the help and input. Serj, got any pics of cars similar to mine that you've done? Just curious to see what it'd look like proffessionaly done. xD Thanks again.

Paint my car....I gots a drug dealer across the street and will let you have your way with me <3
When I worked in a paint shop... I never-ever painted a Del Sol.... I don't think there's a big locale of them around here is why. Cars I did that had crappy sunburn? Only one I did that was blackI remember was a black 199g (I believe) Honda Accord. The hood looked exactly like your trunk, and I remember it because the guy was an asshole, and we did the car super perfect by REMOVING THE HOOD to paint JUST THE HOOD, which is all that was damaged. Then he went home, and spray painted some shit all over the inside of the car and tried to get a free paint job from us because there was "overspray" inside the car.

THE HOOD WASNT ON THE F*CKING CAR DIPSHIT!!! AND WHY WOULD IT GET INSIDE?!

Anyway, he wound up dropping it when we saw that he had rattled the interior black (used to be gray) and he was obviously a dumb asshole.
We only charged him something like $150 for a full re-paint of the hood.

Spray painting is a little harder to get the texture smoothed out, but it's totally possible. I'd say it's better that Kabooki do it not sober, because the results will ALWAYS look better.:D I never took pictures of the work, and for a while I did painting in my shop, but I only did 3 cars out of the shop, and maybe 7 boats. I painted a '69 Charger, a 1950 Mercedes, and a Pontiac grand am for a friend.
 

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I may have to get your advice in the near future on what to do with my quarter panel. For now I'm going to be trying to spray a hood. I'll post how that turns out in the near future.
 

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Any specific brands to use or stay away from?
 

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It's been so long since I rattle canned a car...
I wasn't out to do a good job though, I was out to fixa junkyard special to look more like a junkyard special. I drove it to highschool, and I loved it.
Since then, I've never been to an auto store looking for spray versions of paint, it takes a lot of work to get it nice, but is totally possible as Kabooki already mentioned. I'd guess Rust-oleum would be the best, but it's also really expensive at about $7 a spray can. To paint a whole car I spend maybe $35 -$40 on paint, so in that reference it's pricey.






I miss heather... worst car I ever owned... but the fastest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Was nice out today so decided to try doing the trunk. Forgot to take a pic of it after sanding =/ but heres a few.

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z140/Soldier4life808/Car/primertrunk.jpg

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z140/Soldier4life808/Car/trunkpaintwithclearcoat.jpg

For the sanding I decided to use an orbital sander and did some 220, 400, then 1000. Did 2 layers of primer, then 2 layers of paint and 1 of heavy clearcoat. Gonna sand it with the 1000 again tommorow after achool, then hit it up with another coat of clearcoat and see how it comes out. Thanks a lot for all the helps guys, specially Kabooki and Serj22, appreciate it. <3
 
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