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It's actually a fantastic shop. This is the first time I've ever had any trouble with them and I talked to the mechanic & managers this morning and we're all cool. It was a fluke and they made right on it.
It's Westlake Independent Honda/Acura in Westlake, Ca. I highly recommend them for top quality jobs that bring your car up to and beyond OEM specs. They are not a performance shop but they will do select aftermarket installs, maintenance & repairs. I've been using them for 6 years now and leaving them behind is one of the big downsides of my move across the country. I hope i'm lucky enough to find a shop half that good. :btu
 

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scottigee said:
It's actually a fantastic shop. This is the first time I've ever had any trouble with them and I talked to the mechanic & managers this morning and we're all cool. It was a fluke and they made right on it.
It's Westlake Independent Honda/Acura in Westlake, Ca. I highly recommend them for top quality jobs that bring your car up to and beyond OEM specs. They are not a performance shop but they will do select aftermarket installs, maintenance & repairs. I've been using them for 6 years now and leaving them behind is one of the big downsides of my move across the country. I hope i'm lucky enough to find a shop half that good. :btu
interesting...yea..fluke shit like that happens every now and then..we get it here at our shop. I'm suprised they didnt catch it before they released that car...i wonder if they test drove it at all or what. Cause that would cause a horrible miss..meh..oh well..we had a civic one time..#1 plug wire off..distributor cap lying on the intake manifold..and we cranked it to look at the rotor turn..and the fucking car FIRED! tell me how that happens
 

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that's crazy! When I got my car back it was only hesitating occasionally, and down low at around 2k rpm under heavy throttle. So if you don't know the car well you might think it's just bogging. Other than that it was running pretty well. I just know my car pretty damn well so I picked up on it. I'm thinking now that the wires were actually making good contact with the plug, so it would fire most of the time, it's just that since the ceramic/porcelain was cracked it may have jumped to the plug chamber walls under heavy load / low voltage conditions.
So yeah it would have been hard to detect. They test drove the car and everything, the guys were apologetic.
 

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ok i'm not trying to wake up an old thread but when the cracked plug was brought up, nobody mentioned what causes people to crack plugs to start with.
the #1 cause is people using the wrong spark plug socket!
there are all kinds of them out there in parts stores and in cheap tool kits, but unless you have a good quality socket that's right for your particular plugs, you can easily crack them. just about all 5/8 automotive plugs now are the long type and they take the special long 5/8 plug socket. using the old short style will crack plugs very easy. also the socket should have the rubber inside it too! the rubber not only holds your plug for you while putting it down in the hole, it also helps protect it from cracking too.
the best way to make sure you have a good socket is to stay with the good name brands, and stay away from cheap no name crap. lol
personally i use only snap on ! the # for the one you need for honda's and most all other automotive plugs these days is S9706KA . if you use this socket, you'll never crack the plugs! :)
 

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Yeah, that kind of goes without saying. 1st of all short sockets are out because you won't be able to reach the hex portion of the plug - the socket bottoms out on the top of the spark plug. 2nd of all if your socket is missing the rubber washer inside throw it out. 3rd of all you just have to be careful with porcelain; you can't knock the socket around in the plug hole or over torue the plug.
Anybody that's done it a few times knows the drill; bottom line is you just can't get lazy and sloppy
:btu
 
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