[TegFanatic]

Hi guys. I was on the phone with a "tune" shop yesterday trying to find out how much it would cost to P&P the new head going on the teg and the IM already in it. I think the guy didn't know what he was talking about at first because he starting talking about how my car would be a guinea pig because no one has ever done this swap before. And how the block might not hold up under the new head. I have a 90 LS and I'm putting a 99 LS (do I even need to say that they're both non-VTEC?) head in it. I finally explained to him the the blocks were the same (right?), and that I just didn't want to swap the whole engine in and out. He told me that a P&P job wouldn't make a difference because of the way they heads are already ported. He then started bragging about the Mitsu's he's worked on and talking about turbos. I told him I didn't want a turbo, and that a SC was only a possibility, not a definite. Anyway, long story short, I'm trying to find out if its worth it for me to get it done. I'll not get it done at that shop, but elsewhere. Also, does anyone know a good machine shop in NYC, NJ, or east PA? As always, thanks.

 

[cdoome2]

you're right on the blocks being the same, why sc over turbo though? id take it to a different shop

 

[TegFanatic]

you're right on the blocks being the same, why sc over turbo though? id take it to a different shop

sc= no waiting for spool. I autocross, not 1/4 mile, so I need a lot more power in the low end.

thanks for the confirm on the block

 

[cdoome2]

you're right about the autox'ing but dont look at a jrsc they suck majorly for non vtec. you could also look at getting a ceramic ball bearing turbo, it will spool very fast, you will make much more power with a turbo

 

[TegFanatic]

You bring up a good point. Still, the task at hand is the head swap, SC or Turbo is still months (and dollars) away at this point. Anyone know a good shop?

 

[cdoome2]

i dont, i live in florida, but good luck with finding a shop and good luck with the swap

 

[#17]

imho port n polish without reworking the head and later tuning is not worth it
by porting it you will see and feel the gains but its not gonna really show until you get some cams and higher compression pistons
if i were you i'd just work on my suspension for now...
some nice thick sway bars yum

 

[TegFanatic]

sorry, I've started a few threads on this. Mods to be done at the same time (now):

99 LS Head
P&P?
Cams, Sprockets
Valves
Springs
Retainers


Suspension, Wheels, Tires - Late Spring
Bottom end - Maybe over the summer
Tranny - Next Fall
SC, TC?

 

[#17]

WHat kind of cams are you getting?

 

[TegFanatic]

Crower

 

[#17]

Which crower ones?

 

[TegFanatic]

either 62405A Stage 3 or 62403 Stage 2. I'd like to go Stage 3, but I'd also like to drive the car more than a week.

 

[TRuFLiPpeR]

agree

i agree with tuan on the p&p job. are you sure p&p is the way to go? there are some cams out there that actually perform better on a non p&p'd head (like the jun type 3's). however, these cams are more for drag racing since they really shine around 7-9krpm, much higher than what an auto x-er needs. i don't know much of the specs on a crower cam, but a cam that produces good horsepower in the mid-range, and has proven reliability, is the ITR cam. this cam really shines around 5-65krpm, which seems perfect for an auto x-er. as with the sc or turbo, as what everyone has pointed out, the sc has instant throttle response while the turbo has lag. what cdoom2 said about the ceramic ball bearing is true, but it's an issue of reliability in auto x-ing. back to the p&p, it may take away from everyday driveability, so if that's an issue, that's something you should definitely think about. either way, i wish you the best of luck in your build-up!

 

[Nick]

My port job from JG is nice, to bad i can't feel anything.

 

[danmakG60]

Here is my sugestion.............

1)Drop all the valves(it is not that hard with a little research/work)
2)Degrease the whole assembly
3)Start with some sandpaper rolls on a Dremel or variable speed electric drill(check Summit Racing for their roll kit)
4)Smooth and blend the bowl areas, do not enlarge only smooth them out, do not grind the valve seats or touch them
5)Smooth out the intake and exhaust ports, the goal here for the beginner is only to remove factory casting flaws, like ridges and trash
6)Put everything in a box, take it to a good head guy in town, tell him you want a 3 angle cut, resurfacing, and new valve seals. He will have the whole thing washed and reassembled.

The next logical steps would be larger than stock cams and Adj. cam sprockets(a bonus). Also look into a thinner head gasket for increased compression, that will make any motor more responsive and a little better @ lower rpms.