Port and Polish
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its great to have but not necessary.gsrteg said:Is port and polish necessary to do in a 2001 gsr
When doing headwork: valves, cams, springs, retainers, etc…
Essentially, yes.
Dude, if you're doing valves (I'm not a firm believer in oversized valves for NA, but if that's what you're doing, you'll have to get a valve job, you might as well port and polish that sucker while you have it off your block. I had a pocket port, like they Type R head is, ported down by the valves, farther away from the manifold, and that cost me around $250 at a local machine shop.
Dude, if you're doing valves (I'm not a firm believer in oversized valves for NA, but if that's what you're doing, you'll have to get a valve job, you might as well port and polish that sucker while you have it off your block. I had a pocket port, like they Type R head is, ported down by the valves, farther away from the manifold, and that cost me around $250 at a local machine shop.
Some camshaft manufacturers recommend a port and polish for their more agressive cams. Specifically, what kind of headwork are planning on having done?
I am doing Skunk2 Stage 2 Cams, Skunk2 Tit. Retainers,
Skunk2 valves, Skunk2 Springs, and cam gears!!
Skunk2 valves, Skunk2 Springs, and cam gears!!
Well I have to agree with AcuraBro by saying that you might as well get it p&p while you have your head off doing your valves.
For $250
For $250, you get a pocket port, similar to what Honda does to B16 heads to make them Type R heads. Nothing major, but you have to remember, cost doesn't necessarily = Best finished product here.
When you get a head ported, you're virtually making a decision of what type of FINAL set-up you're going to run. Not a thing where you say, oh, well I think I changed my mind, I'm going to lower the compression and go turbo after putting in 12:1 pistons TODA B cams, etc... and get the head ported to the exact cam lift & duration, and compression ratio. Heads are very purpose oriented when it comes to machining them. You have to know that the more you machine off isn't necessarily going to be better. Imagine blowing thru a coffee stirer, then one of those big-diameter McDonalds straws, or the intake off your car. With the way your lungs are, you'll get the best flow through the McDonalds straw. The coffee stirer bottles everything up. You might have high velocity, but try to blow a balloon up through one of those suckers-- you won't fill any volume of the ballon nearly as fast as you would the McDonalds straw. With the intake, you have virtually no velocity or volume filling capacity. So as you can see, contrary to the pontiac grand prix, your you homeboy's ex-girlfriend, wider IS NOT better. Eventhough there's not real good real-life booster you add to your lungs, imagine if your lungs were really powerfull, or even had a mechanical fan hooked up. Then maybe the intake tube would be the better application. So if you're going to do this, do it purposefully.
For $250, you get a pocket port, similar to what Honda does to B16 heads to make them Type R heads. Nothing major, but you have to remember, cost doesn't necessarily = Best finished product here.
When you get a head ported, you're virtually making a decision of what type of FINAL set-up you're going to run. Not a thing where you say, oh, well I think I changed my mind, I'm going to lower the compression and go turbo after putting in 12:1 pistons TODA B cams, etc... and get the head ported to the exact cam lift & duration, and compression ratio. Heads are very purpose oriented when it comes to machining them. You have to know that the more you machine off isn't necessarily going to be better. Imagine blowing thru a coffee stirer, then one of those big-diameter McDonalds straws, or the intake off your car. With the way your lungs are, you'll get the best flow through the McDonalds straw. The coffee stirer bottles everything up. You might have high velocity, but try to blow a balloon up through one of those suckers-- you won't fill any volume of the ballon nearly as fast as you would the McDonalds straw. With the intake, you have virtually no velocity or volume filling capacity. So as you can see, contrary to the pontiac grand prix, your you homeboy's ex-girlfriend, wider IS NOT better. Eventhough there's not real good real-life booster you add to your lungs, imagine if your lungs were really powerfull, or even had a mechanical fan hooked up. Then maybe the intake tube would be the better application. So if you're going to do this, do it purposefully.
Head Milled and P&P questions.
Just wondering what the process of "milling the head" means?
How does it relate to engine performance? What are the specs for N/A and FI setups (How much "milling is required")?
And also for Port and Polishing......what are the specs for N/A and FI? Costs?
Just wondering what the process of "milling the head" means?
How does it relate to engine performance? What are the specs for N/A and FI setups (How much "milling is required")?
And also for Port and Polishing......what are the specs for N/A and FI? Costs?
Milling is a machining process where the can remove some of the metal off of the bottom of the head. It can be used to slightly increase compression and to create a smooth surface for the head to mount onto the block.
P&P is a method in which they create a smoother, more flowing head by altering the shape of the runners and valve seats. They polish the surfaces to create a smooth surface for air to flow through. Becareful with this because porting is a very delicate proceedure where if it is done wrong, it can actually hurt your performance rather than enhance it.
P&P is a method in which they create a smoother, more flowing head by altering the shape of the runners and valve seats. They polish the surfaces to create a smooth surface for air to flow through. Becareful with this because porting is a very delicate proceedure where if it is done wrong, it can actually hurt your performance rather than enhance it.
Thanks for the info...
How much typically would a P&P head for a FI Integra cost?
One more thing....deMad10 said:Milling is a machining process where the can remove some of the metal off of the bottom of the head. It can be used to slightly increase compression and to create a smooth surface for the head to mount onto the block.
P&P is a method in which they create a smoother, more flowing head by altering the shape of the runners and valve seats. They polish the surfaces to create a smooth surface for air to flow through. Becareful with this because porting is a very delicate proceedure where if it is done wrong, it can actually hurt your performance rather than enhance it.
How much typically would a P&P head for a FI Integra cost?
Yes, I know these things. My pistons aren't Spoon manf. pistons, they're OEM Honda PCT (Civic Type R) pistons REBALANCED by Spoon sports.
milling your head will be under $100, and depending on what specs the machine shop is given to what your final set-up will be, but a full P & P will run upwards of $800.
milling your head will be under $100, and depending on what specs the machine shop is given to what your final set-up will be, but a full P & P will run upwards of $800.
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