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Im thinking of getting a mild set of cams for my teg, 91 GS (B18B from a 94 LS) a set that can work with a stock valve train,but im not sure if I would need to get it tuned right away. I know tuning it would benefit my hp, but I cant think of any reason why I would have to do it right away. Would stock pistons defeat the purpose of cams? Should I just throw this idea out the window :bash and stick with other bolt on first? Yeah, probably . . . Anyways give me some input. Would a mild set of cams require ecu tuning or timing adjustment? Thanks.
 

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Im thinking of getting a mild set of cams for my teg, 91 GS (B18B from a 94 LS) a set that can work with a stock valve train,but im not sure if I would need to get it tuned right away. I know tuning it would benefit my hp, but I cant think of any reason why I would have to do it right away. Would stock pistons defeat the purpose of cams? Should I just throw this idea out the window :bash and stick with other bolt on first? Yeah, probably . . . Anyways give me some input. Would a mild set of cams require ecu tuning or timing adjustment? Thanks.
I wouldnt think you "need" to build your valve train for mild cams, its just that the power thoes cams unlocks comes in at a higher RPM usually that your stock valve train cant deal with.

I mean, you could put thoes cams in, but as long as you didnt rev the car any higher than factory rev limit you should be ok, but you'd be defeating the points of your cams. If it were me, no matter what, I'd throw in a better valve train so I would eliminate any possible valve train detonation.

Also, you dont need aftermarket pistons to take advantage of your cams. You can have a good set of cams and even with stock internals otherwise, you'll still make some decent power, granted with higher comp. pistons you'd make a little more, but thats another question.

But honestly, it sounds like you may be better going with another bolt on at this stage?? IMO



A new intake mani and throttle body could give you a few more ponies out of that B18b.

Also, to make your car a decent bit quicker, my recommendation to you sir is go buy a y80 transmission out of a GSR, and bolt it up to your car, you'll notice quite a difference.
 

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x 2 ^^....and for my own input:

Why do you want cams? Do you just want a 15whp gain, and leave it at that?

Do you want any more power in the future?

IMO, any non-OEM cams require a valvetrain. Why ever take the chance of blowing up? You can get away with it when you're using really mild ones, but I like having peace of mind. And yes, you should get tuned...not for the extra power, but to dial in your AFRs. After I slapped in my cams, I was running dangerously lean....like 15:1 at 3/4 throttle.

Any other bolt-on before your cams will hardly be noticeable at all. Good bolt-ons and high compression with a set of cams really wakes up the motor.

But it all depends on your answers to my first couple questions.
 

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I had crane cams stage 2 in my ls. Those cams would be perfect for you if they still make them
How were they? Any idea what power you made, and/or what your powerband looked like?
 

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I liked them however, I think the obd2 computer is too sensitive to run with them untuned (this was back in 01) Much has changed. The slight lope at idle, made the engine run a little rich at idle only but it still caused it to throw a too rich code.

with a k&N air filter and type r exhaust, I put down 127 on a dyno jet. I think that's pretty good results. I think if tuning software was avialable other than hondata and I opened up the exhaust, I could have squeeze another 10 -15 hp.
 

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I liked them however, I think the obd2 computer is too sensitive to run with them untuned (this was back in 01) Much has changed. The slight lope at idle, made the engine run a little rich at idle only but it still caused it to throw a too rich code.

with a k&N air filter and type r exhaust, I put down 127 on a dyno jet. I think that's pretty good results. I think if tuning software was avialable other than hondata and I opened up the exhaust, I could have squeeze another 10 -15 hp.
You only put down 127 with fairly aggressive cams in a b18b??? A stock b18b should damn near put that out.
 

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Dyno curve pretty much follows and exponential lol. Notice how the power pours on like nobody's business after 5k....and notice how low it is below 5k. Saving grace is that the torque curve is pretty nice throughout.

The dyno video is from my FPR only tune. I learned my lesson the hard way that buying the Hondata S100 before seeing what the tuner supported is stupid. So, he didnt support Hondata, so all we could tune with was my FPR. A couple weeks later, I went back with a local Uberdata tuner, and we did it up right.



 

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You only put down 127 with fairly aggressive cams in a b18b??? A stock b18b should damn near put that out.
I would assume that dyno jet + lack of bolt-ons makes up that rather lower number.
 

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I would assume that dyno jet + lack of bolt-ons makes up that rather lower number.
I guess?? I never heard of someone running cams without the proper support systems, like flow mods.

I know dynojet is conservative, but still, I would have expected at least 140-150 WHP.
 

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I guess I should also mention that the first time I had the car dyno'd, I put down 140hp. I lost the printout and I wasn't sure of the correction factor.

The car didn't feel like 140 so I had my doubts and took it to another dyno jet. That's when I put down 127, which felt more realistic.

The fuel ratio was spot on on both runs and I doubt an ignition correction by the ecu cause a 13hp loss
 

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wow that dyno looks very unusual to me especially for an ls. Was that an actaul printout? Stock bottom end?
That's an excel plot generated from the raw data from the Notepad file the Mustang Dyno program spits out...so yes it's the actual plot. The print-out I got from the dyno printer is kind of useless because it shows horsepower and torque on two different scales, so it just looks really weird.

And yes, bottom end is completely stock. My Skunk2 Pro Intake Manifold enhances high RPM power (oh well), my gorgeous sounding German Brullen exhaust is just that...nice sounding because it's 2.07'' compared to 2'' stock. And I have a DC-S header. So other than my 3" Comptech Icebox, my bolt-ons are really screwing with the powerband, and holding me back.

That said, the DC-S header has shown to support 195whp on a similar non-VTEC B18 build that had a bottom end build. But I still want the 2" tube HyTech header with 2.5" collector, and the ~2.5" T1R 63 exhaust.
 

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any 1/4 mile times?
NO :cry

I've never had my car home during the season, sigh.

Just as well, if I tried to hit the track with my current tires I'd run a 17.40 @ 95mph :hehe

However, I had to build a computer program to simulate longitudinal vehicle performance for class. It takes into account the power/torque curve, frontal aerodynamic drag, tire rolling resistance, gear ratios-final drive-shifting, weight transfer, maximum tractive forces (with a loop written to ease off the throttle if traction is lost), estimated drag coefficient, and transmission/drivetrain efficiencies.

So all said after more than 400 lines of code, my car ripped off a 14.6 @ 90.
I think it's pretty close, I checked other cars compared to magazine numbers, and they're all within 3-5%.

Anywho, with good tires and good driving, my goal currently would be anything in the 14s. Obviously any shifting that takes the revs under 5k really hurts me. I like my car as a rolling start street monster...lol
 

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with those kind of #'s and powerband, I'd say 13's are achievable
Yea? At WOT, each shift usually leaves me in the nice part of the powerband, but it's still just 200bhp in a 2600lb car.

Ken, an older mod on here (Sirfallsalot) picked up 20whp midrange when he swapped to a Rage header ($400 HyTech knock-off) on his 192whp B18C1. So, I'd like to beef up the bolt-ons. Then maybe 13s could be seen with good tires. It's a really finicky powerband. I've gone from walking a 350Z from a 4 car length deficit to losing to a Maxima big just because the point of floorage was different lol.
 
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