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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so here goes the story. driving to work and i'm going about 80mph and the temp gauge goes up a bar (digital 4th gen gauges go in bars). I was like, "whoa this sucks." I slow down and the 2nd bar lights up (3/4s to red) and i pull over. Let it cool down, looked at the coolant and it was low but not that low. Continued my drive when the temp was back to normal and it was fine until i hit a freeway again and then the gauge jumped and i pulled over a 2nd time, etc.

The next day I replaced the thermostat and flushed the coolant. The car was still overheating and this time worse. I look under the hood and my upper radiator hose was collapsed, i'm like "WTF mate" and replaced my radiator cap. That hoser of a hose has been ok since but i'm back to my normal overheating problem.

The symptoms then and still are: Normal idle and warm up time. Once warm, car will go past the normal temp after 3-5 minutes of easy driving. The fans will only turn on when i turn on the AC. The lower rad hose is cold even after changing the freaking thermostat and burping the system.

Next day, took it to the dealer... ugghhh... i hate doing that. they said i have air in my coolant from missing a freaking washer in my radiator drain plug. I haven't been leaking coolant or anything, so i call BS on that. They also said i need a new temp sensor.


edit:
questions:
1) if i had a bad temperature sensor, why would my lower radiator hose be cold?
2) if the sensor is bad, is my engine not really overheating?
3) would a bad temp sensor keep my fans from turning on?

things i have done are:
1) replaced thermostat
2) flushed coolant (added water wetter too)
3) Replaced radiator cap
4) check ECU to see if it would show a code (it didn't)
5) bled system through nossle on thermostat housing
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
come on... help me out
 

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topper123 said:
edit:
questions:
1) if i had a bad temperature sensor, why would my lower radiator hose be cold?
2) if the sensor is bad, is my engine not really overheating?
3) would a bad temp sensor keep my fans from turning on?

Ahh buddy this is all I can tell you....

1) Possible clog in your hoses

2) it might not be actually overheating, but then again it might be overheating...that's what the sensor is there for. To figure that out....But I wouldn't mess around with guessing if it's actually overheating or not. Find out what's wrong and fix asap

3) ^yes, b/c it wouldn't know if your car is hot enough to throw the command to turn the cooling fans on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks for the reply. i'm not convinced about the clog keeping my lower radiator hose cold, could a new thermostat just be bad?
 

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i ran into this problem when fixing my friend's TSX. His mechanic plugged his sensor in wrong and punctured it into the hose. In your situation are you getting heat when you turn on your heater? Does it help lower the temp at all when you turn it on? IMO your car is overheating seeing as how the lower hose is cold. You dont see any radiator fluid leaking even after you leave it parked overnight? If that's the case you might have to make sure the lower radiator hose connection is hooked up properly. Replace just that if you can and see if anything changes. I doubt you'll need a new sensor. But I know that the hose itself costs around $170 or so. You may be able to do it yourself but if you aren't confident enough then just let the shop do it. It's pretty easy, I've done it before, best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
dang $170 for a freaking radiator hose! yes i get heat from my heater system and it doesn't change my overheating problem to drive with the heater on. No leaking fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
alright, you must have meant hose with labor being $170 and your friend getting screwed, i found the part for $15. i'm sure i can change a radiator hose, i've done a lot of work on my car before and changing a hose shouldn't be a challenge. it's probably just drain the fluid and swap hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
topper123 said:
yes i get heat from my heater system and it doesn't change my overheating problem to drive with the heater on. No leaking fluid.
i just drained the fluid and boiled my new thermostat and it works. DAG it would have been easier to replace an already new thermostat (and get it replaced free since it is new)

i was hoping that the water pump was fine since the honda dealer didn't point out something as major as that (which they'd love the money for)... if the water pump didn't work, why would my radiator get hot? wouldn't all the fluid be in the block? if it is a water pump, i might as well save for a JDM H22 because i dont want to change the pump or pay to get it done on my 150k mile F22 engine.

i've flushed the radiator 3 times now, i'm not getting chunks or anything... it drains just fine, doesn't that show that the radiator isn't clogged up that bad?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yes i've bled the system and i haven't used any stop leak products but i have used waterwetter

edit: new question... is the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor the same as the temperature sensor... in some cars they're different but i haven't been able to find out if it is the same in Hondas.
 

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In reading the above notes you mentioned that your fans only comes on when you turn on your a/c.
THis is a red flag!!!
Your radiator fan should turn on by itself without the use of the ac fan.
Hondas are notorious for air bubbles when you change the anti freeze and DONT use the bleader to the block to let the air out.
Worse case is your water pump separated and your coolant is not circulating.
Start the car cold with the radiator cap off, monitor the temp gauge so the car does not over heat, blead the block, and watch to see if the coolant is circulating in the radiator. Lastly if the coolant doesnt move and the lower radiator pipe is cold, your water pump has failed.
 

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samd77 said:
In reading the above notes you mentioned that your fans only comes on when you turn on your a/c.
THis is a red flag!!!
Your radiator fan should turn on by itself without the use of the ac fan.
Hondas are notorious for air bubbles when you change the anti freeze and DONT use the bleader to the block to let the air out.
Worse case is your water pump separated and your coolant is not circulating.
Start the car cold with the radiator cap off, monitor the temp gauge so the car does not over heat, blead the block, and watch to see if the coolant is circulating in the radiator. Lastly if the coolant doesnt move and the lower radiator pipe is cold, your water pump has failed.
Good advise. I forgot about the fans. I think mine isnt working, cause last week I got stuck in hours of snow traffic and my car was overheating. Opened the windows and blasted the heater to keep it from boiling over. This only happened when I wasnt moving - ie. the fans arent comming on :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i installed the sensor and it didn't change a thing... crap. i'm gonna take my car back to the dealer since i paid $90 for a diagnostic that didn't tell me what was actually wrong with my car and see if i can get a free diagnostic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
update: i contacted the dealer and they told me my problem was my restricted radiator and that the water pump was fine when they checked it. so i replaced the radiator, the hoses looked fine, filled it up with coolant, bled it, etc. still overheating..... the water pump seems fine because the system had the pressure to bleed the air out and once the thermostat opened it seemed like the hoses heated up ok (top hose hot, lower hose warm). the fans still dont come on without me turning the A/C on and the fuse was fine. i tried driving with the a/c on (which means the fans were on) and it still overheated. getting frustrated..... :bh
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
took the car to the dealer today and i'm hoping for the best. i really dont know what they're going to say. i've already replaced my radiator, temp sensor, rad cap, thermostat... what else is there to replace besides the water pump? i'm thinking that the water pump is ok because the hoses are hard when the car is on like they have full pressure and i can see coolant move over the top of the radiator when the cap is off. after reading this thread, any other things you think could be bad?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
phrancis said:
so you are feeling up your car's erection?
what can i say... i take car of my car

just kidding...

but for bleeding the air out of the system, you run the car with the radiator cap off to cycle out the air. you should repeat that process again just to make sure after the car has cooled down.

honda dealer said i might not have done it right if i didn't have the car at a big enough angle because it traps air when the car is flat. i call BS on that and they're just looking for excuses because they misdiagnosed my car.
 
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