[boOsTed CiViC]

I have a 96 civic EX (d16y8) with a greddy turbo (w/ IC) running 10 psi...anyway my car keeps overheating, even during normal driving....just replaced my motor 2 weeks ago, new radiator, new thermostat, new coolant hoses, and replaced the cat with a hi-flo cat.....i have no idea why the car is overheating...i took it to 2 mechanics and they have no idea either.....any ideas as to why this is happening.....( this happened with my old motor as well)

 

[RudeLude]

you could check the airflow through the intercooler..if its not enough flow due to the blockage from the intercooler it could cause the radiator to be hotter and lose cooling capabilities..
not certain..but something to check for..
dan

 

[SoFlaGS-T]

you sure it didnt eat up all your coolant? check the level if you havent already... also, you should get a lower temp thermostat, and try the water wetter to make coolant temps lower...

 

[turbo'd 97Ex]

I have replaced a few thermostats and the new ones were bad. It can happen for sure. The problem you are having is probably not because of the intercooler blocking the radiator. I have that setup and have no problems with overheating at all. Again, go for the easiest stuff first like replacing the stat and checking the coolant level.

 

[Kaser]

what kind of radiator did you replace it with, oem honda? well if all else fails with new thermo's, correct coolant level, dry an upgraded radiator from koyo or fluidyne. also like RudeLude said, check airflow to the radiator first.

 

[Ruckus138]

make sure the fan is working... coolants levels.. is anything obstructing airflow to the radiot? or inside your engine bay...
on another note, 10psi on a greddy kit, how's that working out?
i don't think another radiator would really help...
i only mention the fan since my car was overheating about a month ago, coolant boiled, and it only happened during city driving under 45mph.

i bet it's gremlins, those fuckers seriously need to leave cars alone.

 

[zcsohc]

10psi on a greddy kit, how's that working out?
Yes I'm interested to , did you just replace your motor cause other one blew up? Is this stock internals your talking.

 

[TurboJDM]

This is a very big problem with Turbo'd cars.. The number one reason this occurs is b/c you have crap stock fans.. A few customers had the same problems.. We put some FAL fans on their cars and they have not came back to the shop one time... Most people make the assumption that the IC has to be moved... Logically its true but the IC also needs air too.. just spend about 180 and get some Good FAL fans....

 

[boOsTed CiViC]

thanks for the advice guys, as for the thermostat...it has been taken out, this way the coolant runs all the time.....it helped a little but not much.... i have a fluiddyne radiator and a stck fan..hmm i am going to get a better fan maybe it will help.....


10 psi is the reasin i blew up my first motor....the connecting rod snapped off the piston and the piston smashed into my head. not only that the connecting rod ripped up my block...the new motor has je pistons, crower rods, block guard, and titanium valves..hopefully i can run 12 psi now......the greddy kit can max out at 16 psi if tuned right before upgrading to a bigger turbo.


can there be anything else that can cause my car to over heat????

 

[turbo'd 97Ex]

An oil cooler will lower your engine temp as well. I noticed a 1/3 drop in temp on my gauge once I installed my oil cooler. It also gives you an extra quart of oil which prolongs the oil life.

 

[TurboJDM]

Oil cooler is not bad but its mostly for road racing from what i have been told.. it doesnt make that much of a dramatic difference unless you live in a state like Az where its always hot but for most states when winter time comes around the oil cooler is not always an advantage to have...

 

[turbo'd 97Ex]

Oil cooler is not bad but its mostly for road racing from what i have been told.. it doesnt make that much of a dramatic difference unless you live in a state like Az where its always hot but for most states when winter time comes around the oil cooler is not always an advantage to have...

That just ain't the way it is and you have been told incorrectly. An oil cooler makes a considerable difference. In almost every state the temperature gets in the 90's and sometimes the 100's in the summer. The south isn't the only hot place. Like I said in my earlier post, the difference on my temp gauge when I installed the oil cooler was significant. The gauge stayed at the halfway mark and now stays right at 1/3. Not only does the oil cooler reduce the engine temperature and help reduce detonation, it also allows you to add an extra quart of oil. With 5 quarts of oil instead of 4 quarts, you have increased oil life and better protection. I don't see why so many of you guys don't use an oil cooler. It is yet another myth that using one doesn't make that much difference.

 

[TurboJDM]

Like i said i dont have too much experience with oil coolers but i can tell you that from what people have told me is that the B&M oil cooler is not that great... maybe your using a different kind but you may be right...

 

[turbo'd 97Ex]

I use the Greddy oil cooler that was 500 bucks, ouch. I have a buddy who is installing the B&M this weekend and i will know soon the difference. He lives in Florida so he should be able to see if it makes any difference. He did say that the size of the cooler was smaller and that would make sense that it would cool less. His cost $140. You get what you pay for.

Here are some links to sites that sell parts so you can make your own. Some have thermostats to let the oil flow to the cooler once it reaches a certain temp.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/filtmt.htm
http://www.anplumbing.com/SWIVEL_SEAL_HOSE_ENDS.html

Even if the oil temperature reduces by 40-50 degrees, I think it is worth it. I think the reason most people don't do it is because they can be a pain in the ass to install and because you don't get a power gain with all that time, effort, and money. They then justify not installing it. It was really easy to install but like I said, $500. That's why I have the links to the do it yourself kits because if I install one again, that's the route I am taking.

Another reason people don't install them is because they have a huge-ass intercooler and there is no room to mount a front mount oil cooler. I haven't seen a wheel well mounted cooler yet. If someone knows where to get one please post it.

 

[CKidd]

10 psi is the reasin i blew up my first motor....the connecting rod snapped off the piston and the piston smashed into my head. not only that the connecting rod ripped up my block...the new motor has je pistons, crower rods, block guard, and titanium valves..hopefully i can run 12 psi now......the greddy kit can max out at 16 psi if tuned right before upgrading to a bigger turbo.

How long were you running at 10 psi before you snapped the connecting rod? I was running at 9 psi, and I lost cylinder 2 the other day. We still haven't run a compression test on it. My check engine light gave me a "misfire in cylinder 2" code, so we checked injectors, plugs, and wires. We aren't sure what the problem is yet, but my fear is that I burned a valve or piston. I was only running at 9 psi for 15 minutes. Any thoughts?

 

[redfox]

Ok, first the 10psi situation. Correct me if I'm wrong but you ran 10 psi on your stock compression right? Also using the stock fuel setup supplied with your kit. Well, that's not too good of an idea, because you are most likely spiking to 12-13 psi, that would definitely blow your motor. That's why I would tell anyone boosting at 8psi or up to reduce their compression a little.

Running the JRSC kit at 9psi on stock compression with NO intercooling is even worse. That's why they have that water injection thing to cool the intake charge. Hence the acident you have.

Seriously, anything over 8psi, make SURE you cool your charge and have some kind of fuel system to back it up.

 

[CKidd]

I was running the below listed setup at 9 psi HARD for 15 minutes. Do you think that would burn a valve or piston? No signs of detonation.

 

[redfox]

I was running the below listed setup at 9 psi HARD for 15 minutes. Do you think that would burn a valve or piston? No signs of detonation.

Lets say that I wouldn't be surprised. At 9 psi, most people will have an intercooler inline. Since you can't have an intercooler, that's why the Jackson kit comes with water injection. If you got the pulley elsewhere, then you should still get a water injection system to cool. 9psi is above what JR recommends for reliable setup. Heat is your worst enemy.

 

[stillstock]

nice ride by the way

like the color...and i'm impressed with the interior electronic work

as far as blowing the engine...i guess the fuel mix must have leaned out

i think vortech had thathappen to their Si during testing a high speed run
the sport compact car civic Si during that challenge also blew under similar conditions...on 3cyls and a blown piston it was still faster than my accord...damn i need a new car. lol

 

[Ruckus138]

it could easily be that you burnt a ring or 2. notice any smoke, are you getting blow by? hehe blow by is a funny term. but careful if you did do damage internally, you might damage the cylinder walls. and when that happens, boring(sp?) em out can cost a pretty fuckin' penny.
i ran 9psi at the trackone day. spiked to 11. it was allover. burnt a ring, lost compression in #4. down almost $2000. was running a dragIII on a stock 01 gsr. so now i'm just fixing it, selling it, gettin' a 67 Chevelle or Camaro, and gonna drop in a Ram Jet 350 crate motor from gm. can't wait. i feel like i'm going to the darkside or something

but after my personal experiences, i wouldn't recommend running more than 7 psi on bone stock set up. until you can afford to get some new injectors and something like hondata... but of course i've seen people happily run more without any problems. so each to their own, just my $.02.

also, be patient. don't be too eager to just up the boost. i know they made it easy with the push of a button or a turn of a valve. but you know. just be smart.