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Discussion Starter #1
Well, after having an engine sitting in my garage for a week, I finally got some free time to start getting my next b18b up to par to put in the civic for boost.

so far, i've got $25 in this engine... which went to gas and lunch to my wifes cousin for helping me get it to my house. free engine ftw! :w00tz

today, I was in the garage smoking a cigarrette, and said what the hell. broke out the tools and went to town. got the engine up on the stand, and removed the head, and bagged the block for the time being. it's been raining alot here, and i don't want any more moisture getting to it than already has.

anyway, on to the pics, since that's what everyone wants to see :


got the head down in our basement so i can work where it's cool. will probably end up getting the block down here too after i make sure all the fluids are out of it.


engine was pretty dirty on the outside, inside of the head looks good though. the guy i got it from is a mechanic i believe, but it was turboed.


shot of the cams. can't decide between going with crower 402's, 404's or BC stage 2 cams . . . probably will go brian crower in the end just because they're a bit cheaper. but that's a ways off yet.


I HIGHLY advise taking these off prior to removing the head from the block. i fought with them for quite awhile tonight


not sure what this says about the condition of the engine. but it's not real pretty.


up close shot of the valves... any thoughts?

pretty much just got parts of the head sorted out tonight. going to remove the springs, valves, and retainers tomorrow. then will take the head to a machine shop to have some pretty-fiing done to it :lol

probably will start working on the block in the next few days.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
kommon_sense said:
head looks to be in good condition. the buildup appears to be normal. If it is in the budget, I would suggest that you get the head cleaned and checked for straightness.
yea, that's going to be the next step after i get the retainers, springs and valves out. think i'm going to go with the rubber mallet tap method for that.

still not sure what components i'll be putting in, but this is going to take me awhile
 

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Discussion Starter #5
tortis said:
are you going to use the wood planer on the wall to mill the head and the block? $25 is pretty close to free in my book!
you know it, :p i'm old school like that :lmao
 

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IISaiNtII said:
yea, that's going to be the next step after i get the retainers, springs and valves out. think i'm going to go with the rubber mallet tap method for that.

still not sure what components i'll be putting in, but this is going to take me awhile
A rubber mallet and a socket works well. Just be sure to wear some goggles or something. I had a few cotters shoot out when i took my head apart.
 

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Good Stuff , Enjoy the Build :number1
 

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Discussion Starter #9
kommon_sense said:
A rubber mallet and a socket works well. Just be sure to wear some goggles or something. I had a few cotters shoot out when i took my head apart.
got them out today :tu took harder whacks at it than i was expecting.



got a question now though.... when i take the head to have it hot-tanked an resurfaced, do i need to take out the valve guides as well? not sure how those come out :confused

::edit:: just checked the head surfaces for straightness, and they're within the proper tolerances, but more than likely i'll have the machine shop double check for me and see what measurments they come up with.

not to jack your thread but. i have a b18a/b turbo ready head for sale I'll give you a strait deal on it
shameless plugs don't bother me, but i want to build it up myself :D
 

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Discussion Starter #10

got the rest of the valvetrain removed, with the exception of the valve guides. click image for fullsize pic... intake valves looked pretty good to me, exhaust valves had ALOT of buildup.

after i got everything bagged, tagged, and tucked away, i went outside for a cigarette. . . found two large slugs on our front step that have been crawling around for a couple weeks. i hate slugs, so i salted the piss out of them :lol

once again click for fullsize :D
 

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i used to love salting slugs lol! can you imagine how pissed off they must get?!

-Derek

to stay on topic Have fun and i plan to do the same thing REALLY SOON!
 

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About the valve guides...no you don't need to remove them for cleaning/resurfacing but if you planned to replace them you might save money be taking them out yourself. It is not easy though. I baked the head at 275 in my oven for like 30 minutes at least, and I fabricated a special punch tool to use in an air hammer, even that thing struggled but my compressor sucks so I blame it on that. Forget doing it by hand, I tried that first with my special tool and a hammer.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
klungemonger said:
About the valve guides...no you don't need to remove them for cleaning/resurfacing but if you planned to replace them you might save money be taking them out yourself. It is not easy though. I baked the head at 275 in my oven for like 30 minutes at least, and I fabricated a special punch tool to use in an air hammer, even that thing struggled but my compressor sucks so I blame it on that. Forget doing it by hand, I tried that first with my special tool and a hammer.
they all look pretty good, so perhaps i'll leave them in. i just didn't want them to be ruined during the cleaning process... this is all uncharted territory for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
photohost wasn't working worth a crap for me last night, so here's what i accomplished yesterday:

started in on the block, drained what little oil was left, then dumped it

some nasty stuff came out so i let it drain like that for quite awhile.

while flipping the block around, i noticed some SERIOUS buildup outside the sleeves, hard to see in the picture, but it looks pretty dayum bad to me:

looks like orange calcium deposits almost.

next, moved on to removing the oil pan whilst the nasty antifreeze/oil mixture was draining out.


:bash dammit dropped one. there's a ton of bolts on the oil pan

lots of sludge and some metallic looking material in there:


starting to get a clue as to what *might* be wrong...

need to get the crank exposed to get the pistons out, so these gotta come out!


with the pickup and baffle removed, i can see the crank and remove the rods/pistons. i inspect all of the rods for play and low and behold, we had a winner:

quiet a bit of movement there on rod #4. when i got pistons 1,2,3 out after reaming the cylinder ridges, they all looked to be in pretty good condition. got them bagged and tagged with their respective bearings.

now onto #4; when i got the rod cap off, this is what i found:

if you look closely, you can see that BOTH bearings are there (sort of) but in terrible shape.

they are paper thin:



^those are 2 different bearings there :wow
 
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