You will need to have the wrist pin pressed out. They are pressed in so you wont be able to get them out. As far as the gasket. You have some choices and you choice depends on what you want to do with the car. If you want to have a daily driver you will want to go with an OEM gasket. If you go with a thinner gasket you will up your compression even more and you will start to run into issues with tunability on pump gas.ok cool but do i need to get them machine compressed or can i swap them myself and for head gasket u mean the 2 layer one or go with oem 3 layer to be on the safe side.
I've read threads on people breaking valvetrain parts on "stage 1" cams. I put that in quotes because there is no industry standard for stages. But Crower recommends you get the upgraded valvetrain with all their cams. For sure with stage 2.crane stage 2 or crower stage 2 would be a good start anything more than that you'll need springs and retainers
I've read threads on people breaking valvetrain parts on "stage 1" cams. I put that in quotes because there is no industry standard for stages. But Crower recommends you get the upgraded valvetrain with all their cams. For sure with stage 2.
Many people get away with stock valvetrain on really mild cams, but it's just the luck of the draw. You definitely can't rev any higher with the stock valvetrain with a hotter cam.
To the OP, you have enough compression to run a pretty sweet street cam. IMO, you won't have enough compression (at 11.5:1) to run the Skunk2 Pro 2s, but the stage 2s or the Pro 1s (I've never seen any specs on these, but as long as they're a bit milder than the Pro 2s) should be fine.
I've heard that the blox cams are pretty close to the skunk2's..they also make an itr copy..I havent heard anythign bad about them..Again..you'd still need to swap out your valve train.another question before i choose the cams are the blox cam any good i read that those are copycat from skunk2 pro's and there cheaper. any suggestion