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yes, they will work..and you wont have clearance issues. Your compression will be jsut shy of 11.5:1
 

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ok cool but do i need to get them machine compressed or can i swap them myself and for head gasket u mean the 2 layer one or go with oem 3 layer to be on the safe side.
You will need to have the wrist pin pressed out. They are pressed in so you wont be able to get them out. As far as the gasket. You have some choices and you choice depends on what you want to do with the car. If you want to have a daily driver you will want to go with an OEM gasket. If you go with a thinner gasket you will up your compression even more and you will start to run into issues with tunability on pump gas.
 

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crane stage 2 or crower stage 2 would be a good start anything more than that you'll need springs and retainers
I've read threads on people breaking valvetrain parts on "stage 1" cams. I put that in quotes because there is no industry standard for stages. But Crower recommends you get the upgraded valvetrain with all their cams. For sure with stage 2.

Many people get away with stock valvetrain on really mild cams, but it's just the luck of the draw. You definitely can't rev any higher with the stock valvetrain with a hotter cam.

To the OP, you have enough compression to run a pretty sweet street cam. IMO, you won't have enough compression (at 11.5:1) to run the Skunk2 Pro 2s, but the stage 2s or the Pro 1s (I've never seen any specs on these, but as long as they're a bit milder than the Pro 2s) should be fine.
 

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I've read threads on people breaking valvetrain parts on "stage 1" cams. I put that in quotes because there is no industry standard for stages. But Crower recommends you get the upgraded valvetrain with all their cams. For sure with stage 2.

Many people get away with stock valvetrain on really mild cams, but it's just the luck of the draw. You definitely can't rev any higher with the stock valvetrain with a hotter cam.

To the OP, you have enough compression to run a pretty sweet street cam. IMO, you won't have enough compression (at 11.5:1) to run the Skunk2 Pro 2s, but the stage 2s or the Pro 1s (I've never seen any specs on these, but as long as they're a bit milder than the Pro 2s) should be fine.

X2..anything above stage 1's from anyone I would highly reccommend using aftermarket valvetrain. Especially if the cam manufacturer reccommends it. And like stated above, no matter what you use, if you use the stock valvetrain your rev range remains stock. The b16 valve srpings will let the valves float at 9k..8500 will work but above that you will float the valves and be in bad shape.
 

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another question before i choose the cams are the blox cam any good i read that those are copycat from skunk2 pro's and there cheaper. any suggestion
I've heard that the blox cams are pretty close to the skunk2's..they also make an itr copy..I havent heard anythign bad about them..Again..you'd still need to swap out your valve train.
 

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Yessir.

In general, valvetrain can mean anything from (in certain engine arrangements) push rods, to lifters/tappets, to rockers, to retainers/keepers, to valve springs, and finally the valve...with adjusting nuts as well.

But in this case, we're just worried about the springs/retainers where you're concerned. Upgraded valves would just be an extra, and aren't required for safety.
 

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lol...i thought piston rod combo was a sextopic..
 

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lol ANYwho.....

yes, you can mix and match cams/valvetrain. Do some research, and come to a decision.

Look for issues like the life of certain valvetrain components. Only recently have companies been coming out with titanium retainers that will last a long time....it wasn't too long ago that it was recommended you replace them every 20,000 miles just because they wear out because they're so light.
 
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