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Hey whats up everyone. I have a JL audio 12W6 being powered by a fosgate 400.4 amp. I plan on bridging two of the channels to power the sub and the guy at the car stereo shop said that I could run all four of my remaining speakers by running each side with the remaning two channels. I'm also going to make my own box for it but I've talked to a lot of my friends and they all have a diferent opinion on what I should do for it. My questions are as follows:
1. What type of wood should I use?
2. Should I do the ported or sealed enclosure? One guy said that I shouldn't do the sealed since I'm not fully powering the sub.
3. How do I wire the amp the way the guy recomended?
4. I'm puting this into a 92 civic hatchback and I measured it and if I do go with the ported enclosure I would only be able to point it towards the back of the car or towards the front not upwards. So which would be best for position wise and taking in the consideration of the room.
5. what should I do for wiring someone told me that if I were to do my whole car it would be about $150. But I have a friend who gets half off on that shit so he'd hook me up with some fostage stuff but is that what I should do?

If any of you guys could help me out with this it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.
 

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I had all your questions answered then my computer screwed up.

1)Use 3/4" MDF to make the subbox. MDF is very easy to work with and is rigid enough to resist flexing under pressure.

2)Sealed will give you a tighter bass, whereas ported will give you a higher SPL (sound pressure level). Basically ported will be louder than sealed. It all depends on what type of music you like to listen to, and what you are looking for out of you system

3)To run it like the guy suggested, you would bridge two of the four channels to run the subwoofer(s). Normally it is Left + and Right -, but consult your amplifier manual just to make sure. There is most likely a switch on the amplifier as well to run the amplifier bridged.(again, consult your manual).

For the interior speakers, you would configure your speakers in one of two ways.

Both Left Speakers in Parallel connected to the LEFT +/- inputs, and Right Speakers in Parallel connected to the RIGHT +/- inputs,

or

Both Front Speakers in Parallel connected to the LEFT +/- inputs, and Both Rear Speakers in Parallel connected to the RIGHT +/- inputs.

4)Usually firing the port or the subs towards the rear gives the best output. This essentially corner loads the subwoofer, and makes the subwoofer seem louder. You may have to play with the orientation til you find what works

5)Wiring is gonna cost you about that. Make sure that you buy decent RCA cables, or you will regret it. Cheap RCA's usually allow noise into the system (i.e alternator whine). I am not saying buy the most expensive stuff you can get, but don't buy the cheapest either. Go to your local car audio shop, they should be more than happy to help you out.

Hope this helps

1fast2dr
 

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I wouldn't be too keen on wiring up all of your speakers to that particular amp. RF amps have a tendency to get extremely hot and shutdown. I have a 600.4 that I run to a single IDQ and some Diamond components. That's a 4 ohm mono load to the rear channels, and a 4 ohm stereo to the others. Yours system will be placing a 3 ohm mono load (which is below the recommended) on the rears and a 2 ohm stereo load on the front channels.

I think that any extended periods of driving at high to moderate listening levels will cause the amp to thermal and shut down, especially if it isn't recieving lots of cool air to help out the heatsink.

I think that you would be much safer trying to run just the front speakers from and the sub from the amp. If you still have problems, you will have to wire the sub to a 6 ohm mono load and proceede from there. It may work the way you have it planned, but I would be cautious.
 

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BTW, 1fast, check your PM!

Both Front Speakers in Parallel connected to the LEFT +/- inputs, and Both Rear Speakers in Parallel connected to the RIGHT +/- inputs.
I would suggest another route as you would not have your Left and Right soundstage then, just mono.
 

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VTECnicalAccord said:



I would suggest another route as you would not have your Left and Right soundstage then, just mono.
I gave him both options, one for left right fading, and one for front rear fading...his choice which is more important...That's what sucks about trying to use a 4 channel amplifier to run your entire system. Can the 400.4 run mixed mono?

I personally would buy a 6 channel amp like I did and be done with it...

1fast2dr

p.s got your PM...no ideas yet for the forum. Also, I really don't care if I oficially become a mod since my spare time is limited. It was just an idea.
 

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I personally would buy a 6 channel amp like I did and be done with it...
Like an MC 3000M from Mac. Now THAT is a 6-channel amp!

Can the 400.4 run mixed mono?
Like Rob said, I wouldn't push that amp that hard. I really don't think that the amp will act very happy about it after a little while of continuous listening.
 

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1fast2dr said:



I personally would buy a 6 channel amp like I did and be done with it...

1fast2dr

Or an a/d/s/ PH30.2 75 x 4 @ 4 ohm....very nice (and expensive) amp
 

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dakillahatcher said:
1. What type of wood should I use?
2. Should I do the ported or sealed enclosure? One guy said that I shouldn't do the sealed since I'm not fully powering the sub.
the w6 r not very good in a ported box(the w3's r) i would put them in seald...... also sealed boxs rais the power hadling a bit but be careful because cooling is not as good......... but for sure go sealed
 
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