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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey again everyone...so yeah, summers getting to me and i wanted to find some of that free horsepower laying around in my gsr swapped rs integra. i ended up with a custom intake i made with the stock intake parts, i now call it the Artates induction...<also summer bordom. anyways, i found this part of the cowl that is right above the battery location that is just clipped on and is removable...

here is the piece that comes off...

it leaves a gap about 1,5 inches high and maybe 8 inches wide (estimates)...

so i started on this project. first i removed the battery and intake,the a/c support braket, and the battery stand, and took off the bolts on the fuse box. the battery i relocated to where the abs is located (the passenger side between the headlight and shock tower) i had to cut off the little plastic nibs on the bottom of the tray...

and it fit perfectly

the best thing was that there were already pre threaded hole for the battery tie downs (gotta love when that happens :D )


(face the tie downs toward each other and it holds the battery down very securley)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
heres a pic between the ls and gsr intake tubes, notice the placement of the flex and the resonators (gsr of left and ls on right)

i used the ls intake and angled it off the throttle body like so

and attached the filter

fot the pcv, i drilled a hole (i used 23/64th bit) in the resonator and pushed the hard tube of the pcv into it


dont forget to seal off the old pcv hole (electric tape FTW) and wrap the new hole in tape too


the old a/c support braket i used to now support the fuse box to the shock tower

then just connect the old battery connections and i was finished. 0o yeah, then let the ecu reset. thats all i have done for now, im going to do an airbox soon so it will pull air straight out of the cowl. from that, ive gotten noticably better response and the engine makes a deeper louder growl (if you will). also my ass dyno says its better than stock :hehe heres the finished product:


any comments, positive or negative are apreciated, as long as they are constructive. also if any questions.... until next time
-quikflip
 

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Why did you put it in that location, other than the fact you were bored? It's nice work, I just don't see a big reason why though. And you put the heavy battery further forward in the car :cry
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
White98LS said:
Why did you put it in that location, other than the fact you were bored? It's nice work, I just don't see a big reason why though. And you put the heavy battery further forward in the car :cry
as of right now its a little pointless, but im planning to make an airbox for it and raise the hood a little, so it will draw air straight out of the cowl for ambiant air rather then the heated air under the hood. is there something bad about the battery? :ninja
-quikflip
 

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`you do realize that by moving the batt that far foward you changed the ballance of the car, also the spot you moved the air intake to is acting as a heat extractor.

the car draws cool air in the front and the air excapes were ever it can witch happens to be right where you placed your intake.
if you shim the hood you will make this effect worse and you would draw more hot air in the new intake.

so here's how i can help you if you want to reinvent the wheel you need afew tools to help you.
1 a vacume perasure gauge
2 a digital temp sensor , a computer temp sensor with mutable probes is best
3 a minor understanding of thermial dynamics

the vacume gauge will let you know the a perasure in the intakes new loction if it is higher that stock at any time you will lose hp
the temp sensors let you moniter air temp in the intake and sorunding area
if it is hotter than stock at any time you will lose hp.
and last we all know that hot air rises so puting the air intake up higher will let it suck warmer air this is why cali's are in the fender also the sun will add to the heat due to the fact that the filter is so close to the hood.

hope this helped alittle
 
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White98LS said:
Why did you put it in that location...
Derrick (as well as everyone else)... does this give any hints of anything at all to you???



Cowl Induction BABY!


quikflip27 said:
I mean just look at it! Unlike those raised hood, this is cooler and does not make the car look awkward!

I give props! Only other thing I can think of you doing for your boredom... is move the battery to the trunk. LOL! Then that would sdatisfy everyone who complained about weight distribution. That or get an Oddessey (not the van, but the actual brand of batteries) battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
RoadRageMotors said:
`you do realize that by moving the batt that far foward you changed the ballance of the car, also the spot you moved the air intake to is acting as a heat extractor.

the car draws cool air in the front and the air excapes were ever it can witch happens to be right where you placed your intake.
if you shim the hood you will make this effect worse and you would draw more hot air in the new intake.

so here's how i can help you if you want to reinvent the wheel you need afew tools to help you.
1 a vacume perasure gauge
2 a digital temp sensor , a computer temp sensor with mutable probes is best
3 a minor understanding of thermial dynamics

the vacume gauge will let you know the a perasure in the intakes new loction if it is higher that stock at any time you will lose hp
the temp sensors let you moniter air temp in the intake and sorunding area
if it is hotter than stock at any time you will lose hp.
and last we all know that hot air rises so puting the air intake up higher will let it suck warmer air this is why cali's are in the fender also the sun will add to the heat due to the fact that the filter is so close to the hood.

hope this helped alittle
very good information, i really should have used those tools you mentioned to see if this was a good idea at all, and since its still summer, ill try to get my hands on them. i have the minor understanding of thermal dynamics from my physics honors class (ty mrs. fliegler) so ill work on the rest. the only part of your post that i dont totally agree with was about the shimming the hood. from what i understand, air comes in from your front air dam and goes into the engine bay. it is heated primarily by the radiator and then secondarily by the block, headers ect... if the hood is shimmed, then that air has a path out of the engine and is replaced with new air to be heated. Now if the hood is kept normal ( somewhat air tight per say) then that air is kept in the bay and has no escape. then the engine will continue to heat the air until an equilibrium (when the air temp is the same as the engine temp) is reached, from my understanding. so i think that shimming the hood will help.
-quikflip
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
female four said:
Derrick (as well as everyone else)... does this give any hints of anything at all to you???



Cowl Induction BABY!




I mean just look at it! Unlike those raised hood, this is cooler and does not make the car look awkward!

I give props! Only other thing I can think of you doing for your boredom... is move the battery to the trunk. LOL! Then that would sdatisfy everyone who complained about weight distribution. That or get an Oddessey (not the van, but the actual brand of batteries) battery.
woot :number1 thanks for your opinion. i actually plan to move the battery to the back but forst i actually need to change the suspension. im still stock there and i have the 4 finger gaps everywhere. so thats whats next. i havent gotten much time in the car since im only 15 with a permit, so i have to wait for my license first (november). then i can get to do all that stuff and try some auto-x. i need to make that airbox so i can show everyone the actual idea behind this. the box is going to be routed straight to that cowl gap and draw in air straight from outside. im having second doubts about the volumetric efficency of that cowl gap, dont know if it will effeciently flow enough air for the engine...what do you guys think?
-quikflip
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
DriftKingB18 said:
no sir I dont like it, I routed my tegs intake to a hole in the front bumper with 3" flex tube so it drew air from the very front of the car.



I liked that alot better
thank you sir, i respect your opinion, just want to be alittle different, i like how your intake is routed, i just see to much of those. of course that way works, but that doesnt mean its the only way that does.
-quikflip
 

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well as for the shimming heating the air more it works like this. you are right about your normal air induction points on the car but when you shim the hood you get two forces at work, one is the air that slams in to the windsheild it will go two ways, first one is easy that is up, the second is a buy product of the aero and air preasure on the windsheild some air will be forced down ward in to this new opening it will be turbulant air creating very rapid changes in intake preasure.
as for the heat issue you will now have more hot air trying to leave through the new opening that will mix with the turbulent air.

to see the new turbulance just take afew 1/4 inch by 3 inch long strips of crey paper and tape them around and in the new opening.

one more thing there is a chance that you could be generating lift on the front of the car if you shim the hood it would be small meybe as little as a lb or two or it could be more.

you can test for this by checking the atmospheric preasure under the hood with the shims and without if the preasure is higher due to the new volume of air that can exit the car you are ceating lift and that is not good.

good luck
you can trust my theorys on heat i have worked as a thermial engineer for the last 6 years
 
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