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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks,
i just rebuilt my b18b out of a 96 integra rs. I changed the rings, bearings, installed fel pro gaskets top and bottom, had the head rebuilt, put in a stage 3 clutch, lightened flywheel, arp head studs, taylor wires, cap + rotor, lightened crank pulley and had everything cleaned up at a machine shop. I recently got the motor back in and hooked up, everything seems fine except it never starts just backfires (sounds like its through the throttle body) ive checked my cam timing at least 10 times its perfectly lined up and hasnt changed through the whole process since i assembled it the first time. plug #1 (nearest drivers side) is blackened from starting attempts where as plugs 2, 3 and 4 are clean. I am running NGK iridium plugs which are properly gapped. Any tips on where to proceed from here?
 

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I would recheck your distributor timing. Make sure that when every thing is aligned up, I.E. Timing gears, Timming mark on your crankpulley or flywheel which ever one your engine has, then pull your distibutor cap and see that your rotor is pointing at #1 post. If not then reset your timing on your distibutor by removing and repositioning the rotor so that it points at the #1 post when the distibutor is reinstalled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i think somehow i must be igniting during the intake stroke meaning im 180 degrees off. because when piston 1 is at tdc so is #3 or 4, maybe i have my firing order mixed up with the plug wires. i dont know my rotor cant be that far off because i positioned it in the exact same place as the original. i marked them when i took them off. if i take the cap off the rotor is either exactly at #1 or #3 when the timing sprocket is aligned with the tick on the block depending on how many times ive turned the crank.
 

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You have to have the Timing cam gears alighned and the Timming mark on your flywheel at TDC then your distributor has to point at #1 cylinder. If you use just the Timming mark on your flywheel and not set your cam gears you can still be 180 degrees out. You must have both set to make sure you are in time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well now that ive checked all that and its all fine im lookin at my repair manual vs google and seeing that my repair manual says the firing order if you were to hold the distributer in your hand should be
2 3
1 4
whereas google says
1 3
2 4
so im guessing that might make all the difference but i duno who's right
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
sweet thanks man, i hope this fixes it up. could explain the backfiring through the throttle body by having cyl 1 or 2 fire on the intake stroke. too late to try it out now tho ill give it a go tomorrow and see if this baby finally fires up and post back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So i got it started but it runs like shit. It was the spark plug order. The weird thing is no check engine light but when i give it gas it will rev up then drop immediately then rev back up etc. it will idle steady but rough the motor shakes back and forth a lot. Also now all the plugs have been blackened. It seems to run smoother the more i retard the ignition timing. How do i get it to run smooth and not jump up and down when given gas? No leaks, no odd noises, oddly enough not even any smoke everything looks great. And i know it cant be the cam timing i rechecked it again today still bang on with the tdc mark and the timing cover marks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yea i did, the beginning of the rotor is at #1. im gonna do a compression test and time it with a light now that its running but im not sure either will show much of why its acting so strangely.
the power surges are the weirdest part, when given gas jumping up and down like that could that be timing as well? but with what it sounds like i dont think theres anything major wrong it has to be in the timing, distributer, etc.
i have adjustable cam gears intake is -3 and exhaust +1 but it ran fine with them before so theres no reason it shouldnt now.
anything else i should check ? im building great oil pressure and everything ive had it to 4000 rpm where i believe the oil pump makes 50psi
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
woooooo i got it, i had the map sensor plugged into the idle air control valve why are they keyed the same ??? runs like a dream now, problem is i cant seem to ever get it into neutral. no matter what i do the speedometer goes up and down as i give it gas although i dont have the drive shafts in yet and havent looked to see if the transmission is turning so im not 100% sure. I also havent put any fluid in the hydraulic clutch system(i dont know if this would affect anything) but i still dont think i can get it into neutral.
 

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Glad to hear you got it running! I would get my axles installed and get your clutch system bleed and see if this takes care of your problem with the speedometer. I think by doing this it should work.

After getting everything installed start your car in neutral put your breaks on and you speedometer shouldn't move. Then let off the brake and even in neutral your tires may still spin and your speedometer will move up. This won't happen when you let the car down on its tires.
 

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92AccordJDMH22A said:
Glad to hear you got it running! I would get my axles installed and get your clutch system bleed and see if this takes care of your problem with the speedometer. I think by doing this it should work.

After getting everything installed start your car in neutral put your breaks on and you speedometer shouldn't move. Then let off the brake and even in neutral your tires may still spin and your speedometer will move up. This won't happen when you let the car down on its tires.
That sounds like a problem 2 me...!!!! Check to see If the wheels are spinning by jacking it up leaving it in neutral...
 

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gflexxx said:
woooooo i got it, i had the map sensor plugged into the idle air control valve why are they keyed the same ??? runs like a dream now, problem is i cant seem to ever get it into neutral. no matter what i do the speedometer goes up and down as i give it gas although i dont have the drive shafts in yet and havent looked to see if the transmission is turning so im not 100% sure. I also havent put any fluid in the hydraulic clutch system(i dont know if this would affect anything) but i still dont think i can get it into neutral.
All the honda's i've worked on and have fired up on jackstands do that, I wouldn't worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
glad to hear the speedometer thing is normal but ...
well i went to start it up and now it's started to surge up and down, never idle's steady. Basically it goes from 500rpm to about almost 2000rpm every second or so. There are no vaccuum leaks i can see and nothing has really changed since it ran perfectly.
I happen to have a b16a civic that does the same thing, never could figure out what it was ... hope im not stuck with 2 surging cars :(
 

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gflexxx said:
glad to hear the speedometer thing is normal but ...
well i went to start it up and now it's started to surge up and down, never idle's steady. Basically it goes from 500rpm to about almost 2000rpm every second or so. There are no vaccuum leaks i can see and nothing has really changed since it ran perfectly.
I happen to have a b16a civic that does the same thing, never could figure out what it was ... hope im not stuck with 2 surging cars :(

IAC VALVE...Pm for instructions..
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
i tried cleaning out the iacv with carb cleaner tonight, the gasket is in great shape. still didnt fix it. i even tried resetting the computer. if i disconnect the iacv the revs drop drastically to about normal and the engine runs steady.
i took the iacv off and applied voltage i heard the cylinder click and theres voltage at the iacv connector when the car is in ON position. Not too sure what could possibly be wrong :confused
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
now i have a 96 integra b18b am i obd I or II and do i have an fitv? i heard that i _think_ 96's AND on didnt come with fitv's thats the only thing i can think of fixing next :bomb
 
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