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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All of the sudden my civic coupe has a very rough idle (like almost bad enough to shut off) Once you rev slightly or start driving you are fine. But any time you stop and sit, the car sounds like it is on death's door.

About 2 months ago I replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor with OEM parts. That is what is throwing me off. Plus, when the cap and rotor were the problem, it had acceleration problems like hesitation. Now, it doesn't, just when stopped.

Any ideas of what to check into?????:confused: Need to fix ASAP. And do NOT want to take to a shop!!!
 

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Hey Leah!!! Nice pic of your little girl!!

Anyway have you looked into the injectors or feul filter and pump? Honda changes the filter at 100k so you may want to look into those or even the wiring that fires the injectors too.

Glad some of us Old Folks are still around. :D

C ya Cutie!!
 

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hey leigh!!

glad all is well with your baby..
I would check your IACV (idle air control valve) on the backside of your throttle body.
make sure the filter is not clogged if it is not check your vacuum lines for cracks or leaks..

oh BTW we did go to the track for some runs..
i ran 14.3 @ 98.8 not bad since the swap....

after you have the baby you and your hubby will have to come with us to darlington one day..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey everyone! Well, I checked codes first. Even though there was no CEL on it was still throwing a 3. MAP sensor. So, I am going to trade it out with another civic map sensor to see if that is it. If so, off I go to Honda to buy a MAP sensor. :cry: And of course, local honda dealership will screw me with the price, but I need ASAP.

Update you all later!

BTW,
I was thinking idle air control valve too, but the code made me think to look otherwise. Plus, if you unplug the Map sensor and start your car, your car will idle like crap. Hopefully that is all it is. But still, that is over 200 bucks. bleh!
 

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Some Suggestions...

I would go to Walmart or wherever and buy the most expensive (probably 6-7 bucks) bottle of fuel system cleaner that they have. You just pour it in the gastank next time you fill up - very simple. These are made to eliminate rough idle by clearing all the shit out of your fuel system. Try running a full tank of premium with a bottle of this - and that could help your problem. I'd try this simple solution - before you start tearing into your engine and spending money.

And make sure all your sensors are plugged in - and then reset your ecu. Sometimes my car idles alot smoother after reset the ecu.
 

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Maybe...

Depending on what year car you have, you may want to change the timing belt. Mine would stall, which sucks, but after I got the belt replaced, it was fine. Except I took it to pep boys and they left the valve cover on too loose, so oil over the intake manifold. It sucked. Good luck with your car!
 

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I think it was my o2 sensor wire....or some wire close to the intake...anyways I accidentally ripped it off and when I idled the RPM's were hopping around. I beat the shit out of my car and finally saw that the wire got unplugged. My check engine light was on the whole time it was unplugged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Not mapsensor, checked that with new one (used tester anyway). Unless it is a ECU or wiring prob from the Mapsensor to the ECU. Changing plugs tonight even though I just did that and swapping out IACvalve just in case (have one to swap to test it out and see if it is that prob) Going to change timing belt in almost two weeks from now - severly needs that done anyway. Making a trip to Charleston to R & D Motorsports for help with it.

I have reset ECU various times after trying different things.

I will try the fuel cleaner too. Never hurts to anyway. But dammit! I was at the autostore about an hour ago and didn't think to pick any up. Isn't that always the way!:rolleyes:

Thanks for all the suggestions. Between us all, I think we will figure it out!!!!:p
 

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I think you just looks at the ends of your vacumn lines - and make sure they are connected and tightened properly, and that they are not cracking.

Another Idea I had was - Have you done anything dealing with your header or your exhaust system recently? If you have a leak in any of your connections: header to head, top of header to bottom of header, header to cat, etc. - that could cause a shitty ass idle - due to the loss of backpressure. If you have worked on this at all lately - I would check that for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Nope, unfortunately the poor car hasn't had any fiddling-with lately. Just started one day.

Didn't get the plugs changed yesterday, but prob tonight or tomorrow (getting to damn cold out there for SC!) Plus, I still want to swap out the IACvalve just to check that too. And the fuel injector cleaner too.

Something's got to work. The only thing that bothers me is that the MIL is not on but when you jump the wires you get a code 3. Grrr....:mad: I don't have a ECU testing harness and from what I understand they are very expensive. So, I cannot test any further than the map sensor (which I swapped and is not the problem and checked voltage up to there, the next spot is the ECU, but you need the tester harness) So it could be wiring from the MAP to the ECU, or even probs with the ECU. But I would like to think it is something smaller, much smaller making the problem!!!:(
 

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If I were you - I would reset the ECU - and then drive around some (to check for check engine light) - and check to see if it spits out any codes after a day or two. When you mod your car - sometimes the ecu can throw some codes - just for shits and giggles - so I would reset it - and see if the same code comes up again.
 
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