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Definitely not ideal, whatsoever. You still running a stock rated battery/distributor? If so, you need to replace that shit. Optima yellow top is the way to go, and you might want to upgrade your distributor otherwise your interior/exterior lights are gonna dim like crazy when your bass hits. Either that or mount a battery in the back dedicated to running your system...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok, i found 3 10" MTX thunders for $125 and i really want to get them, but i don't know if i'll be able to power them (plus my door speakers) or not with the stock battery. do you know if i can?
 

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Definitely not ideal, whatsoever. You still running a stock rated battery/distributor? If so, you need to replace that shit. Optima yellow top is the way to go, and you might want to upgrade your distributor otherwise your interior/exterior lights are gonna dim like crazy when your bass hits. Either that or mount a battery in the back dedicated to running your system...
what he trying to say is to get a upgraded altenator, If your serious about sound try to get around 200 amp alt. your going to have to upgrade your cable from your alt to a heavier gauge wire too.
 

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I agree with dolcerae and hunduhdave, you may also want to do some research on your syste setup too before leaping into it. Make sure you got all you info such as your rpm power output and basic set idea. You may also need to get a capacitor which whould also allow for further upgrading. If you want a good website for finding cheap stuff onlinecarstereo.com is good. gl
 

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I agree with dolcerae and hunduhdave, you may also want to do some research on your syste setup too before leaping into it. Make sure you got all you info such as your rpm power output and basic set idea. You may also need to get a capacitor which whould also allow for further upgrading. If you want a good website for finding cheap stuff onlinecarstereo.com is good. gl
exactly, goin out and buying stuff just because it sounds cool or you've heard good things or whatever is not ideal. You need to ensure that components you purchase will work in conjunction with each other. Also, I hate to say this but Sony Xplod anything is pretty much crap. The capacitor would be a good idea too, especially if you're running a lot of power and/or multiple amps. I wouldn't recommend trying to power your subs and your interior speakers on the same amp either. Your door/rear deck speakers will likely not need anywhere near the power either of the subs you mentioned will. If you have aftermarket front/rear speakers it's a good idea to have one amp dedicated to them with wattage in between the RMS and max wattage rating for your speakers. For the subs you want to be closer to the max rating than the rms; but for the interior speakers it's not quite as important. I'm glad you're asking questions tho, noone's been talking about stereos much recently :(
 

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neither of those amps are 1200w. more likely the 400w range

edit - holy balls, that post was somewhat helpful
 

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neither of those amps are 1200w. more likely the 400w range

edit - holy balls, that post was somewhat helpful
That's for sure, they're like the opposite of the old Rockford Fosgate amps which were way underrated - XPlod retardedly overrates their shit and then wonders why people are disappointed with the product :mad.

And yes, I thought you were one of those who thought their purpose in life was to whore themselves out on the site w/o providing any useful information. Please correct this situation at once :rolleyes:p:ninja
 

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That's for sure, they're like the opposite of the old Rockford Fosgate amps which were way underrated - XPlod retardedly overrates their shit and then wonders why people are disappointed with the product :mad.

And yes, I thought you were one of those who thought their purpose in life was to whore themselves out on the site w/o providing any useful information. Please correct this situation at once :rolleyes:p:ninja
i know, i havent been helpful on this site in like 4 years :lol


:ahh
 

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I've only been on here for like 6 months or so, but if I were to estimate my ratio of useful posts to whoring/shit talking posts it'd probably be like 3 to 1 in favor of whoring/shit talking...:cool
id say out of 50k+posts maybe 1k were helpfull :lol
 

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id say out of 50k+posts maybe 1k were helpfull :lol
:mwaha That's pretty impressive. When I first signed up, I did so because I wanted to learn some more about the performance aspect of things and was careful to be productive and positive in my posts. Then I started reading some of these idiot noob posts where they're asking stupid questions or talking complete BS and expecting noone to call them out on it (http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f6/best-del-sol-ever-331214/) <----perfect example. I couldn't help myself, my dark side came out and I had to start flaming :bash Now I'm helpful if something interests me, but put the smackdown on people with idiot questions/comments...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
everybody, forget what i said in the first post. i'm not getting any of that stuff. i wanted to change the title, but it won't let me, and i don't wanna start a new thread. i'm wondering about powering 3 10"s now
 

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everybody, forget what i said in the first post. i'm not getting any of that stuff. i wanted to change the title, but it won't let me, and i don't wanna start a new thread. i'm wondering about powering 3 10"s now
Ok, well what kinda 10s? The MTX ones you mentioned earlier? What is the rms and max wattage rating on them? Regardless, my answer from earlier still applies - if you don't want the interior/exterior lights dimming you're going to need to upgrade your distributor and battery or run a battery dedicated solely to your stereo. Give us some specifics of your setup idea and I'll try and give you more info...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, well what kinda 10s? The MTX ones you mentioned earlier? What is the rms and max wattage rating on them? Regardless, my answer from earlier still applies - if you don't want the interior/exterior lights dimming you're going to need to upgrade your distributor and battery or run a battery dedicated solely to your stereo. Give us some specifics of your setup idea and I'll try and give you more info...
i either want to get these 3 10" MTX Thunders because i can get a really good deal on them, or i want 1 or 2 12" subs. not sure specifics because i'm not looking to buy them brand new (way too expensive). I want to keep my car as stock as i can because i don't have much money for an expensive battery and all the extras.
 

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Well I'm runnin 2 10" JL Audio W0s on a RF amp, and it's run to the stock battery. I have JL 6x9s in the rear, but haven't replaced the door speakers yet cuz I've been too busy replacing the front and rear bumpers and doing some other body work from drunken accidents. My lights dim a lil bit in the inside when the bass hits, but it's not really too bad. Once I replace the door speakers and get an amp, crossover, and capacitor I'm going to upgrade the alternator and replace the battery with an Optima cuz it worked wonders in my Accord.

An important thing is the HU you're running everything on, as well as the wires you use to run everything. This is one area you do not want to skimp out on, and yet it's a common mistake for those trying to do a stereo build on the cheap. You need to make sure you get an appropriate gauge wire for the amount of power you're running, and don't buy some cheap ass shit just because you wanna save a couple bucks. Mine is all Rockford Fosgate wiring, but other good brands would be StreetWire, Stinger, and that's all I can remember at the moment. Knock on wood, I haven't had to replace the fuse running my stereo in the past 6 years...and I've had most of the same components in the past two cars. Let me know what else you have questions about...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well I'm runnin 2 10" JL Audio W0s on a RF amp, and it's run to the stock battery. I have JL 6x9s in the rear, but haven't replaced the door speakers yet cuz I've been too busy replacing the front and rear bumpers and doing some other body work from drunken accidents. My lights dim a lil bit in the inside when the bass hits, but it's not really too bad. Once I replace the door speakers and get an amp, crossover, and capacitor I'm going to upgrade the alternator and replace the battery with an Optima cuz it worked wonders in my Accord.

An important thing is the HU you're running everything on, as well as the wires you use to run everything. This is one area you do not want to skimp out on, and yet it's a common mistake for those trying to do a stereo build on the cheap. You need to make sure you get an appropriate gauge wire for the amount of power you're running, and don't buy some cheap ass shit just because you wanna save a couple bucks. Mine is all Rockford Fosgate wiring, but other good brands would be StreetWire, Stinger, and that's all I can remember at the moment. Knock on wood, I haven't had to replace the fuse running my stereo in the past 6 years...and I've had most of the same components in the past two cars. Let me know what else you have questions about...
What gauge of wire should i use?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'd say 4 gauge is fine, 0 gauge would be good but may be a little overkill for what it sounds like you're working with...
ok, i was gonna get an amp and it comes with a 4 gauge. instead of getting multiple amps, could i get one amp with multiple channels and have separate ones for my subs and tweeters?
 
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