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seafoam question

3K views 20 replies 7 participants last post by  Anomoly 
#1 ·
Hey guys,

It's been a long ass time since i've posted on this forum.
I hope everyone's been doing well, and life's good!

anyways, planning to seafoam my 5th gen in the next little while.

I've used it in the gas tank before, but this time i'm going to pour some in the crank case prior to the next oil change, and in the intake chamber through the brake booster line or pcv hose.

Question about the the brake booster line vs. pcv line... is one method better than the other?

Also, i heard that in some cases it can foul your spark plugs?
Anyone know much about that?
If there are chances that it could... i'm sort of kicking myself as i think i should have waited before installing my new OEM plugs a few months back. (they cost nearly $100 canadian at my local dealership)

The car's got about 65000 miles on it... i'm wondering if it's worth puttin in my ngk iridium's which i kept, for the seafoaming only....

Appreciate your input, thanks.
 
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#2 ·
use the brake booster line. if you pour enough to slow or nearly stall the motor, back off and let it run clean for 10-20 seconds

I used 1/3 each suck, oil, and gas

I suggest full tank of gas, fresh oil change, and the engine fully warmed up before you add anything.

first, 1/3 in teh gas and 1/3 oil, drive around 50-100 miles or so, change teh oil, then begin sucking it through the brake booster

realize things need time to break down, so perhaps 1/6 sucked slowly over the course of 5 mintues, then teh rest after driving around the block


do it in aparking lot if cops are around, that thing will smoke bad if its got a shitload of buildup

my del sol was okay when I did it, it smoked like a bitch for a minute idling, then I floored it and spun across the parking lot once or twice, then she stopped smoking
 
#3 ·
But to be honest, 65k miles is not going to be dirty enough for it to need seafoam

do NOT seafoam teh gas without having it at full tank. you always wanna pour seafoam on a full tank of gas. so that its properly diluted by the time the fuel pump sucks it up
 
#4 ·
I think seafoam is overrated.

Glorified pale oil and isopropyl alcohol and naphtha. essentially refining left overs your being charged out the ass for.

Acetone in the gas at a dilution of 1 oz per gallon is a better idea.
You can find 100% pure acetone at walmart for about 2 bucks a 16 oz can.

Seafoam smokes white because its mostly composed of oil. and oil that light burns like water, a whiteish look to it.
If you want your intake cleaned just take it off and use carb and choke cleaner on it.
 
#14 ·
Cleaned piston tops = better combustion
Clean valves and seals mean better compression
Clean injectors make better- more effective spray pattern
New NGK Iridium IX spark plugs can now ignite the gas in its chamber as designed

Carbon buildup is everywhere- read the EGR cleaning thread and look whats inside the intake manifold. Requires carb cleaner or solvent tank to remove deposits.
It comes with a money back guarantee..what more do you want???
 
#5 ·
seafoam is a good cleaner, its just pushed more then necessary

at 65k miles this guy probably doesnt need it, but its only 4 bucks or so to try it

who cares if its glorified this or that


most peopel dont know diesel fuel is actually more oil then fuel, and is a gerat cleaner for the motor
 
#6 ·
you're right, 65k mi. is not a lot, however i've noticed that the fuel economy has been slipping a bit.

So I figured doing some basic things during the holidays wouldnt hurt.
Changed the dist. cap, rotor, and put on NGK wires.
OEM plugs were put in last spring.
The car seems to be pulling a bit stronger after that.

I also picked up a new oem fuel filter, which i havent had time to put in yet.

It feels like it's running pretty clean for the most part, however I though i'd do the seafoam treatment just to cover that step as well.

thanks for the input above.

However do i need to be concerned with fouling the spark plugs when feeding the seafoam treatment through the bb line??
 
#7 ·
yesn they can get a bit fouled up

use old plugs, or spend teh 8 bucks to get NGK plugs at a partstore after the seafoam

to be honest, a little through the gas is all you need. I wouldnt worry about sucking it or putting any in the oil unitl around 100k or so miles, maybe longer even
 
#8 ·
$100 even in Canadian money for plugs?? Thats a rip off!! Just get Denso plugs from the parts store next time, save you a TON of money, Denso is what Honda's OEM plug is too, if I'm not mistaken.
 
#10 ·
yepp, definately over priced.... 20 bux a plug, and with taxes in you're over 90$

They're pretty good through, NGK platinum core..
Most of the other ones at part stores are platinum tip or iridium tip with copper or some other material at the core... and you can feel the diff when you switch between them..
 
#9 ·
This just in!~ Seafoam sucks.


poly ether amine is what your after, and not many cleaners contain this. Its what really cleans out your injectors and exhaust.


Use carb and choke cleaner to clean out the intake, I just can't believe in seafoam.
 
#11 ·
platinum plugs are not veyr good for a stock honda motor

go for a copper core NGK. order them online instead of paying nearly ahundred bucks for em. Im sure there is a canadian store online that sells them for a decent price
 
#13 ·
I think deep creep is like carb and choke cleaner.
 
#15 ·
DIY: Seafoam

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Level of Difficulty (scale of 1-10): 2 - it is really that easy

Items Needed:
1 Can of Seafoam
1 Plastic bottle (see through)
1 5/16"x30" tubing (Radiator Overflow tubing is what I used, found at AutoZone or O'Reilly's for ~$3)
10mm Socket and wrench

2. The vehicles engine must be warm, so it is suggested to go for a ride (15-20 minutes) prior to continuing.
3. Turn the vehicle off
4. Remove the tube that goes into the vac port.
5. Install the 5/16"x30" tubing to this port/nipple.
6. It is necessary to slowly induce the Seafoam into the engine manifold, as such, dropping the other end of the tubing into the can of Seafoam will either suck up all the Seafoam quickly (which is a waste of Seafoam and time) or you will be second guessing how much to induce withing a specified time. To allow for a proper induction and a visual, I poured the Seafoam (entire 16oz can) into a plastic water bottle.
7. Turn the car on.
8. Let the car idle for a minute or two.
9. Slowly insert the other end of the tubing (from step #5) into the water bottle. You will hear it start to suck the seafoam out. It has to be done slowly, so let is suck a little at a time. This is done by barely hovering the tube above the top of the Seafoam (the suction is strong enough to pull it) and then lifting it out of the bottle.
Note: You will start to hear the vehicle stumble and want to die, I merely stopped the Seafoam induction at that point and let the car catch itself, then started the procedure again.

If done properly, the entire process should take ~3-5 minutes for all the Seafoam to be induced.

10. Turn the car off.
11. Pour a half can of Seafoam into the gas tank. (I did this process with about 2 gallons of fuel left in my tank)
12. Wait 15-20 minutes
13. Turn the vehicle on, it won't want to start and might stumble, give it a little gas and it will turn on.
Note: Large amounts of smoke will result, do not panic as this is normal.
14. Go on a 'spirited' ride for about 10-15 minutes. (I merely drove in D3 for 10 minutes. I was doing about 75-80mph on feeder roads by my house, hitting between 4k and 6k RPM)
15. Get some gas.

Results:
- Noticeable improvement in response and acceleration. Also on the top end, the car responds like it did when I got the car new.

Disclaimer:
I do not want to take anything away from the other Seafoam thread that is going, but it got to long and lots of folks have been posting in it. The above DIY was done utilizing the resources found in that thread but are for a preludes.

I also am not responsible for speeding tickets or any damage that may occur to your vehicle. All that to me is a personal problem. I hope this DIY is more clear and concrete. Please reference the other thread for more pics and instructions if needed.
 
#16 ·
I challenge you to compression check your engine before and After doing this. I seriously doubt you will see a increase in compression. If you did it would be because your rings were sticking and the solvents in the seafoam helped free them up.

I'd rather do engine flushes with gunk than use seafoam. I don't believe it could mist the intakes plenum well enough to clean it or the valves by just sucking it through a vacuum line.

With an engine flush and a relatively clean engine oil you will remove more. Crud from the ringlands.

Untill I see a dyno proven result from seafoam I thInk it's a waste of time and money. There are other products out there such as Berryman chemtool and it's considerably less.

Personally I'd rather remove my plugs and pour a few oz of it in the cylns and then crank the engine with the spark plugs out by hand.
 
#17 ·
I guess I'm not a huge believer in chemical products making any difference in my engine whatsoever. With proper maintenance and good fuel's and oils available now a days, I'll just stick with a good oil, good gas, and other fluids and change them regularly.
 
#18 ·
Everyone of my cars gets a dose of REDEX Fuel System cleaner additive.
I was also sceptical.
So one day whilst messing about with me Honda twin engine go kart i had a bottle laying round so we treated one tank with REDEX and then filled both tanks with the same petrol, we checked the plugs before we did the test.
One plug was sootier than the other so we used that tank and engine for the treatment.
A few laps later we used nearly all the fuel, So i whipped the plugs out and checked.
The results shocked me to this day the REDEX plug was a lot cleaner than the other i mean A LOT!
For this reason me and my friend always use REDEX fuel treatment now.
 
#19 ·
I'm for some additives in the gas that can help clean injectors/carbs or intake/exhaust valves and to some extent combustion chambers. But I just can't believe in sucking a solvent through a tube on the intake as going to help effectively clean your intake manifold, valves, piston crowns, ringlands, or exhaust.

PEA is the leading fuel additive that will clean any carbon deposits it comes in contact with including combustion chambers. Personally I think the best way to clean your ringlands is a 400 some mile drive on a fresh oil change, possibly with a small ammount of seafoam or other high detergent additive to help over the long haul, the also gets the catalytic converter extremely hot and keeps it clean. Much like using he self cleaning option on an oven.
 
#21 ·
all this talk about diffrent additives.....ALL of them when mixed with gas WILL eat up injector coils if done too frequently or mixed wrong ;) this came straight from an AC DELCO class i attended....... anyways ive used seafoam, and all the other shit, never noticed any diffrence from any of them, seafoam sucked in the vac line will turn your car into a party fog machine so try to do it when neighbors arent home
 
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