The side markers can be wired for single state operation (on with parking lights only or turn signals only) or two-way operation (full-bright with turn signals, half-bright with parking lamps).
Done this way, you'll also need two electrical components per side:
30-ohm, 20 watt resistor
3A rectifying diode
Radio Shack might have these parts; I found mine for under $10 total at an electronics surplus store. The resistors I bought were wire-wound and encased in sand. The diodes were rated up to 25V but anything above 15V should work fine. Depending on how you route the wire, a rubber grommet may be needed. Look around the hood hinge; you should see an approx. 1-inch hole there. From there you can route the wiring to the fender.
I used six splice connectors. Three per side, one for the parking lamp filament, one for the turn signal and one for ground. Remove the headlight assy (three screws) and you will see the wires that need to be tapped. Black is ground, the other two are orange.
With the schematic, it should be self-explanatory from here. A picture is worth a thousand words, heh. But just in case: I used a clothes hanger to run a 4-ft length (12V) and a 5-ft length (ground) to the fender hole through the hood hinge hole. I then soldered them to the copper spades of the side marker socket. I then ran the 12V lead to the components, soldered the connection and used heatshrink to cover up any exposed wire. From there, two 1-ft lengths were routed to the headlight assy and splice-locked to the parking lamp and turn signal leads. The 5-ft ground lead from the side marker was also splice to the assy ground. All lengths are approximate double check before doing anything.
Took me one afternoon total, and that's with running back and forth to Home Depot for needed hardware, heh. Hardest part is probably mounting the components and routing the wires. Cable ties come in real handy.
Yeah, and they look good, when you hook them up that way in my opinion. Whatever You do though, be very careful when cutting into your fender because if you mess up its hard to fix. Do little by little, and when you're done you'll be happy, nice cheap mod that helps people see your signal...deMad10 said:You can wire them to be on all the time. You just have to use a large enought gauge of wire and have high enough resistance to lower the current through the wire. It is the current that is melting the wire.
A larger diameter wire will not get more hot. What you need to keep the current down is a large enough resistor. If a resistor allows a certain amount of current through a circuit, you would want a larger diameter of wire to spread out the flow of current. Small diameter wire actually acts as a resistor which is why it gets so hot.DOHC EF3 said:the larger guage of wire the more that will flow through it... bad idea since it isnt the wires that melts the bulb gets too hot and melts the housing
I think you mean you wired them up to a constant power source so they were ALWAYS on, not just when your parking lights were? What they're talking about by always on is when your parking lights are on and when the blinker is blinking too. It looks much better when the sidemarkers are hooked up to be on with the parking lights and blink too.DOHC EF3 said:simple install, but trust me dont wire them up so they are always on wire them to the turn signals that are only on when the turn signal is on because they will melt if wired up to be on all the time at least mine did, besides have you ever seen a car that comes stick with these where they stay on all the time??