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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok..

Here is my problem:
I bought a car from out of state, WA to be exact, and I'm trying to get it smogged here in California but I'm having a problem. The car is passing the emissions test just fine but when the function/computer scan goes through, I fail.

It turns out that my EGR sensor and oxygen sensor are reporting as "not ready" and so that causes me to fail my test. In fact, the only aspect my car is ready in is the heater sensor. (By the way, I recently had a new egr valve and O2 sensor put in from Autozone so it would pass smog) Now, the smog guy said go drive around a while, revv your engine and drive on and off the freeway for a good while and let the system configure and so forth (b/c i guess the system had been reset or something when the parts were put in)... so i did, and it was still not ready. So i take my car, drive some more... and still "not ready" for both sensors....... ok, so by now I take my car and drive up the Altamont pass b/c i figure the mileage and the steep mountain grade would definitely kick my system in... i get back and by now, i've racked up 200+ miles but sure enough the system says again "not ready".. ... so my mechanic now says there's some kind of electrical error somewhere or something. At this point, we're all lost on what could be happening

Another interesting tidbit is that my accord IS having an electrical problem. My drivers control panel (where i control all the windows, mirrors and doors) is completely dead. I had it tested and there is a (+) charge but not a (-) charge, weirdly enough... so the negative charge is getting lost somewhere and that is causing this malfunction. So i also have that to worry about.. but now i'm beginning to think all of this might all be connected to the same problem (the functionality test with the electrical problem, i mean)

So here is the jist again: Egr and o2 sensor will not register and read "not ready", despite 200+ miles driven to get the system to recognize them (a failure or short circuit somewhere?)

and my windows, mirrors and doors will not respond to controls (all fuses and relays are fine)... oh, here's something else that's interesting to note: After the smog or mechanic plugs his computer up to my car, the windows, mirrors and door locks all work for a short time after and until i turn off and turn my car back on. Very weird?

So I think there is a short somewhere or somekind of electrical problem causing my smog issue, which is more important than the windows right now. So if anyone has any ideas, related problems, advice to pass smog, ANYTHING... I would very greatly appreciate it.

Thank you very much and sorry for the long post but i wanted to be thorough about this as possible
 

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not ready is just a pain in the a$$ on these accords. i hown a 96 accord ex and i had no tag and had to pass emissions. had to dirve 150miles( none of which were highway).

when driving let it coast a lot, let it accelerate at different speeds with different pressure on the gas pedal. run the car with the ac and rear defrost on. deccelerate using brakes sometimes and by coasting sometimes.

as far as the egr problems i to had this. if the egr happens to fail you need to clean out your egr ports. now this can be done without taking off the entire intake or by removing it all(best way cause you can clean the inside of the plenum, throttle body, and manifold better.

to access the egr ports and see if they are clogged follow the following procedure:
-relieve fuel pressure
-remove any vacuum hoses, electrical connectors, and the fuel feed from the fuel rail
-remove the electrical connectors from the fuel injectors. there is a little snapping metal piece on each connector that you can use a flathead to push/pull it up from the bottom of the connector. they should pull out easy after this
-remove the two bolts holding the fuel injector electrical connector harness(you just unplugged these) to the fuel rail and full it off and set it aside
-remove the three nuts holding the fuel rail to the intake manifold bolts
- the fuel injectors should come out with the fuel injector
- the egr port cover is then accessible. remove the bolts on the top of the egr cover and remove cover. completely clean the inside of the cover using stp intake and throttle body cleaner. carbon will most likely be caked on it sides. i used a flathead to scrap anything the cleaner couldn't blast off
-clean the egr ports of any built up carbon

* some vacuum hoses can be a pain to remove. just use a pair of pliers to move the clamp down the tube some and then if you still can't pull it off you can grab the tube where you are trying to disconnect it with some pliers(not too tightly as to not damage the hose) and turn it clockwise counterclockwise back and forth so get it em lose

if the inside of the egr cover is extremely dirty or the egr ports are completely clogged it would be best to remove the rest of the intake for interior cleaning. this works best because if cleaning while manifold is still on engine then the carbon deposits can just fall into the manifold and go into the engine when you restart.

haynes manual can save you if you have troubles

as far as the electrical problem im sorry but im not too good with that stuff either
 
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