theres no 'Spec sheet' .. esp. b/c it would almost soley depend on the vehicle weight and springs used to know what type of alignment needs to be done. HONDA is the one who tells you the specs you need.. but if your racing you wont even care what honda says anymore b/c diferent specs can and will give different effects. When you lower your car you need an alignment to get back to OEM specs.. if you want a camber kit you will then need to know how much correction you need to get the right kit (NOTE: I preffer NO camber kit, but if you must get the Standard type .. if you get the EXTREME kit it WILL NOT FIT) Also do not plan on more than 1 degree correction or you WILL bend your control arm against the frame.
For your street car you will want -.5 for camber all around, and 0 for everything else (toe/caster) ..
I have knowticed that 99% of the time they will not set everything to 0 b/c OEM specs provides a range of angles so they tend to be lazy and get it juuuust enough so its in spec. example: say your camber angle is -1.5 after you lowered .. and say you have an adjustable camber kit .. and say OEM specs is -1 to 1 degrees. They will adjust it to -1 degrees (even tho -.5 is best) and that will be that .. not only do you not get the best alignment possible, you will also go out of spec MUCH faster. (Which they LOOOVE) .. #1) b/c alignment shops usually sell tires #2) b/c youll need another bad alignment with your new tires and sooo on and soo on .. making you keep wearing out tires and buying new ones (trick of the trade im sure)
Personally I would LOVE to not even need to goto an alignment shop for an alignment b/c like everything else .. they usually do a 1/2 ass job and charge too much. There are ways of doing alignments with string and chalk which I have been dying to learn. Not only do you not have to worry about them giving you crap alignment .. but also you can do it on flat pavement instead of trying to get your lowered car on a lift that is just tooo high.
