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i would suggest getting new springs and retainers...but its not cheap to have them installed...but theres 2 adveantages to getting then put in when you get your cams...you save on only having to have them installed 1 time, and you know that its gonna be done right depending on how good the shop who does it is...my friend and i did the cams on his B16a3..it wasnt hard..but wasnt the easiest thing to do..and the springs require special tools.
 

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if you are gonna due cams, chances are you will end up doing more mods later down the road that require that you do retainers. It will save money on labor if you choose to get them all done at once.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I can get the civic type r intake cam for $200 and just pop it in until I get a turbo, to satisfy my needs for now. I'm not going to rev past my stock redline with the cam and it will cost me probably an additional $300+ for adding the springs (labor, headgasket, springs) so I think I'm just gonna forget about the springs, if I was going all motor or rev the piss out of it, it'd be a different story.
 

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all you really need is inner valvesprings, such as ITR or better yet Portflow. the retainers aren't needed unless really reving high to reduce weight. even if you rev to the stock redline with the CTR intake cam it would be a good idea to swap the inner valvesprings to handle the higher lift.

but if you just drop it in you may be fine til you tear it down or whatever for F/I. though it's better to be safe than sorry unless you're gonna replace the internals and don't care if something happens.

later
 

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spacetuna said:
What's the worst that could happen?? Float a valve??? As long as we're not talking broken rods or melted pistons I don't care.
most likely it'll float a valve and hit a piston but the damage shouldn't be too bad. bad valve that won't seal if it's bent.
the bottom end should be fine, though the piston may have some scars from the valve contact and such.

just be careful if you're not in a position to rebuild or replace stuff.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, I have another head I could slap on the motor if that did happen so I guess I can risk it. Could you explain if you can why the higher lift would effect the springs? I understand what can happen if it's revved to high but not sure about the lift factor. Thanks for the responses by the way.
 

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on the CTR and other higher lift/duration cams, stiffer springs are used to control the lifting of the valves. with a more aggressive cam profile the valves have to lift higher to allow more air into the comb. chamber. therefore more control is needed to open and close the valve at a higher lift for the proper amount of time. if the springs are too "spongy" then the valve won't be controlled correctly, it could end up staying open when it needs to be closed therefore hitting a piston and bending. even if the piston is ok the valve will be bent and will no longer seal 100%.

this can be explained in much more detail etc., but it's just a brief explanation in my own words. hope it helps some.

later
 
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