spun rod bearing?

Dude, you spun!!

well, as luck wouldd have t, I spun a rodbearing. And my crank is shot to shiznit and I need a new #2 piston. My Teggy has 161K miles on it though, but still, I only revved to like 6800rpm's. SO, take off your oil pan and jiggle your piston...connector...to...the crankshaft...thingy(mental block, sorry) and which ever one has clearance, take itout and marvel at the mess you've made. Now In puttin in a new engine. Ain't it a wonderful thang?

ouch!

u spun a rod bearing a needed a new crank??? how bad was it...it couldnt get micropolished????????????

Re: ouch!

vtec1.8pwr said:

u spun a rod bearing a needed a new crank??? how bad was it...it couldnt get micropolished????????????

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That happened on a friend's 4G63 Mistu motor twice that I know.

I just got my car back after spinning a bearing, but yes it can cause a lot of damage. Luckily mine was covered under warrenty But I had to have my crank, 1 rod, 2 pistons, and all the bearings replaced. If it sounds like a metal on metal tap, than that is most likely what it is. Be careful though, I had almost fused the piston and the rod together from just driving it to the dealership, so I would suggest not driving it if you dont have to.

has anyone out there spun a rod bearing and were able to save their crank??????????????

with a spun bearing you can save the crankshaft....... you would first have to micropolish your crankshaft then use over sized main bearings in place of the old ones......... as for the original post it sounds as if you have floated your valves meaning the speed of the engine passed the ability of the valve springs to close the valves in time........ meaning you smashed one of your valves explaining the valve that seems kinda out of wack....and the sound your getting........ if it isnt to bad you can just replace it with a new valve or you may need a new valve guide put in also or your seats need to be reground ( again depending on how bad it was)

kinghawk said:

with a spun bearing you can save the crankshaft....... you would first have to micropolish your crankshaft then use over sized main bearings in place of the old ones....

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wouldn't u have to go with oversized rod bearings also?

yea my bad I meant oversized rod bearings if you had spun your rod bearings to start with

Well, sometimes you CAN save your crank, only if the damage is minimal. We plastigauged the clearance WITH A NEW BEARING and it was way the hell off. The damage was REALLY done, it took a meaty chunk out of my poor crank. But hen you really start to hear your engine knocking, the damage is done and willneed a crank,or even a new engine. For all I know, I am pickin up a 99 B18B block with the pistons and crank and shit for cheap next week. I hope to God that I get this engine! My baby needs to be on the road!!

lugnutRS said:

Well, sometimes you CAN save your crank, only if the damage is minimal. We plastigauged the clearance WITH A NEW BEARING and it was way the hell off. The damage was REALLY done, it took a meaty chunk out of my poor crank. But hen you really start to hear your engine knocking, the damage is done and willneed a crank,or even a new engine. For all I know, I am pickin up a 99 B18B block with the pistons and crank and shit for cheap next week. I hope to God that I get this engine! My baby needs to be on the road!!

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If so Ill be interested in your old B18C1 Bare block........ I got a lot car part Ill be willing to trade with or pay cash

well...after taking my head off, and dropping the oil pan....i see no damage whatsover to the crank or any rods. i turn the engine over w/ a ratchet...no grinds.....i took my head to a head shop and got it tested....BENT valves...so im 95% sure its the head(but it sounded like a rod knock!!!!!!) wouldnt i see scars no the cyl walls, crank or rods? no metal shavings in oil WHATSOEVER...what u guys think????????? im gonna build my gsr head, skunk 2 manifold...what u guys recommend for not too much money, but good quality. and also, im gonna attempt to do my own internals.....after getting the block machined. what do i have to be aware of...mainly torque right??? i wanna get into internals now...engine swaps are no brainers.

kinghawk...i think im keeping my baby(b18c1) im pretty sure its just head damage....anyone have a p73 head out there in s.cali or a gsr skunk 2 manifold??? hit me up

well if u have not shaving in ur pan and it spins freely then ur bottom end should be fine...just make sure all pistons go all the way to the top...then try pushing them down wit ur hand...everythnig should stay still unlkess the crank spins.

since ur head is at a shop...get ferrea valve they are $25 more than stock for the set
valve springs-so this dont happen again
P&P
skunk2 i/m
3 angle valve job

Umm...my block is a B18B LS block.

get Skunk2 high compression valves if you are going all motor. Raises a total of around .3-.6. I have some for sale if you want them. I also have Skunk2 dual valve springs and Skunk2 ti retainers.

ok first off do any of you know what a spun bearing is caused by?
its not rpm
it is caused by lack of lubrication to that bearing, that bearing then seizing to the crank and then spinning inside the rod or main cap. i had an integra with over 300,000 miles on it and no problem with the bearings. plus a spun bearing would not make a ticking noise. i have been on this board for many years now, and all i can say is every now and then i see this same post, "I SPUN A BEARING". i guess people here think it is cool to spin a bearing or something, i then see nothing but misinformation from people who have never even taken apart an engine let alone ever seen a spun bearing. you would hear the tell tale signs of a bearing going bad long before it would come to the severity of a spun bearing.

then what causes a knocking in the bottom end...and would i be able to see any scrapes on the crank or rods? or would there be metal shavings in my oil..cause there was none. i bent valves thats all i THINK i did. im getting my head fully built, and slapping it on the stock block for now...til i get a lil more money. i heard a ticking in my bottom end.....2 days later, a rod shot out of my block...so this is why im worried(another car) let me know

a knocking rod is caused by a bearing that is either not there anymore or is crushed, or one that has to much clearance between the rod and the crank. you may have ebnt a valve this would cause ticking noise as the bent valve would now have to much clearance between the rocker and the cam.