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Discussion Starter #1
What's up, guys. I am about to dig into an "LS/VTEC" or "B18V", whatever you want to call it, and since I am going to be replacing the internals and having some minor head work done, I was wondering about the pro's and cons of "squaring" the motor. I had seen where some B16's had identical bore/stroke, some swear that it's a great insurance policy for long-term high-revving reliability, others say it's a waste for time on Honda engines, some say that it's not possible. Anybody have experience with doing this? I want to do this right the first time and not want/have to come back next year and tear it down again. Any advice on this is appreciated, as I am getting very different opinions and convoluted information about it all. Thanks! :w00tz
 

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Squaring an engine is a waste of time. Theres a cult following of certian engines, and like wildfire rumors spread that they are the best because of "insert random BS comment here". like the 2jz engine for example. it happens to be square on the bore/stroke. but thats not why its a good engine. The F22b1 was on wards 10 best engines for 2 years in a row, and its not square.


Another BS thing people get on a bandwagon about: RTSR(Rod to Stroke Ratio)
I will say you should always run the longest rod you can in any given motor(so long as it does not compromise piston integrity), as it helps with the RTSR, but rod to stroke ratio is not the "end all be all" that people think it is.

Diesels often have VERY poor RTSR,(if your ideal is a b16) and look how long they last. Filtration of your oil is what you should be focused on for engine longjevity. better filtration = less abrasive oil = longer engine life. Synthetic engine oil with good wear characteristics(4ball wear test) will help a great deal too.

Read this document: http://www.angelfire.com/games/marshallmort/Oil.pdf Info starts on page 14.


if you know how to correctly use a shop manual, plastigauge, and a torque wrench, there should be no reason you'll ever have to tear the engine down again.
 

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Squaring an engine is a waste of time. Theres a cult following of certian engines, and like wildfire rumors spread that they are the best because of "insert random BS comment here". like the 2jz engine for example. it happens to be square on the bore/stroke. but thats not why its a good engine. The F22b1 was on wards 10 best engines for 2 years in a row, and its not square.
X2

Under square, over square, or square doesnt really mean anything in terms of performance. It just an observation.

Just build it to your need. More stroke for low end torque, and idealy, less(er) stroke for high revving peaky powerband performance. Hence the b16
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well that answers that. Like I said, there's an abundance random info/opinion out there, just wondered if it were worth looking into, that is a relief :)


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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Darth Chinko
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rod bolts and head studs.....if you're concerned about revving above 7K reliably
 

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Discussion Starter #6
rod bolts and head studs.....if you're concerned about revving above 7K reliably
Already planned on studs, along with new slugs/pins/robs/main bearings. :D
Glad to know the "squaring" doesn't apply here.
Also, is the block has been exposed to the air (i.e., surface rust, ect) is it safe to "true" the cylinder walls to 81.5mm from the stock 81mm, just to ensure a better seal with the new internals? I don't want to bore it out and weaken the walls, if I wanted that, I'd just get a B20
 

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Already planned on studs, along with new slugs/pins/robs/main bearings. :D
Glad to know the "squaring" doesn't apply here.
Also, is the block has been exposed to the air (i.e., surface rust, ect) is it safe to "true" the cylinder walls to 81.5mm from the stock 81mm, just to ensure a better seal with the new internals? I don't want to bore it out and weaken the walls, if I wanted that, I'd just get a B20
Pretty sure you can get away with honing it rather than boring it out or even resleeving. But you might want to talk to a machine shop, since your probably going to be sending it there in the 1st place anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Pretty sure you can get away with honing it rather than boring it out or even resleeving. But you might want to talk to a machine shop, since your probably going to be sending it there in the 1st place anyway.
I didn't think it would present any issues, I plan on going with something along the lines of a t3/t04 or similar turbo setup later on, so I want to leave as much "meat on the bone" as I can but still have a near-perfect cylinder wall surface for new slugs/rings. Thank you for all your info, I know the whole B18/LSV/B20V/"Frankenstein" is a dead beaten horse LOL
 
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