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I have A 95 LS , I got my exterior done and delt with now im looking for motor , I dont want Turbo or supercharger , im just Looking for HP from different areas , basically , in what order should i do things (intake , headers , pistons...etc.) And what kind of cams and intake and pistons and stuff should i get , thanks Yall!
 

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first off you only have 1 header you dont have HEADERS........second if you want all motor power for the LS then this would be a great setup

crower 62404 cams (1200rpm-8500 rpm powerband 18-21 claimed hp)
Adjustable FPR
High Flow Fuel Rail
Portflow the head
Ferrea Valves and Valve guides
Crower Springs and Retainers
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
RC Engineering 310cc injectors
Bullfrog TB
Hondata or equivalent fuel management (you need an 8500rpm fuel cut to get the max out of the cams)
ACT or some other Heavy Duty Clutch
9Lb flywheel
balanced or forged crank
balanced and blueprinted engine
crower forged or titanium rods
pulley set (just for the hell of it)
some sort of CAI
DC or Greddy Header
Catback Exhaust w/ 2 1/4" pipes
JE high compression pistons/rings (optional)


thats all i can think of right now..........
 

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that would be nice set up but i think the thread starter was just looking for basic set-up btw I don't think Skunk2 makes a intake manifold for the non-vtec b18b series motor. I might be wrong.

I think a more ideal and budget for an ls motor is:
the basic
AEM CAI or any knock off brand either will do
DC Sport Headers 4-2-1
Carsound high flow cat
Custom 2.25 Piping onto a muffler of your choice

Then to feed more power too the LS
throw in some Crower 62403s these cams are more for street use. The 62404s are practically a full race prep application.
stay with stock redline so you don't have to build your bottom end.
B&M fuel pressure regulator

too top this all off a Apexi SAFC to tune the cams.

You will be looking at about 2k for everything.
 

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just to ad my .02c, allmotor_integ is right, the 62403's are the hottest cams you can get for street, if you want it to pass smog, you will also need the s-afc and lean out your lower rpm range.
and if you have tons of dough to spend, LS/VTEC!!!
good luck
btw, i have basic I/H/E, pully kit boch platinum plugs with msd wires. and the ls is quick. fun to drive, but i'm saving up for ls/vtec.
want my car to go from quick---> fast!
good luck again!
l8r
 

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LS/VTEC is the way to go if you got dough like eppo said, I am in the process of repairing the block of a complete ls/vtec motor the right motor mount was rip out of the block so i need to machine the grooves back in order to put the motor mount in place.
 

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62404's are 3/4 race......hahah sooooo....and skunk2 does make an IM that fits B18A/B's.....and no one said n e thing about smog!!!!.......hehehe
 

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I think the best bang for the buck would be t0 swap out your tranny for a gsr and do H-i-e and then a set of 403s and cam gears.


In the long run you will want the 404 cams 403 cams max out at 155hp most people see 145-50 with h-i-e and cams and ecu work and milled head. some members on another bord put down 170 hp with a well bilt b18b.
And I would also recomend a b20b swap all your ls parts will fit with no mods. Ive seen way more b20s 160 + hp with 404s and light mods and one b20 with 11:2:1 comp 404s gears jdm 4-1 2.5 exhaust make 174 hp 156 TQ
 

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B20 will never be able to be BAR certified if you wanted too.....and a GSR tranny would give you faster accel but your gas mileage would suck donkey balls
 

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setup

u should get a AEM cold air intake then for the headers there is more of like your choice. 4-1 create more high end power giving u better torque and are better if u plan on instaling some boost.(TURBO). 4-2-1 create better mid range power. Now u can go for a CAT BACK EXHAUST which handles everything from your catalytic converter all the way to the exhaust tip. I would recommed either getting APEX, GREDDY or SKUNK2. Now you can just getting a POWECORE catalytic converter which would complete the exhaust. Now some may take it lightly but getting new pulleys well add more torque. AEM UNDERDRIVE PULLEYS and AEM CAM GEARS. Now u can add some new age technology with performance chips and the works. VENOM has a module that would help create more hp between the 1,000-5,000 RPM range. Either way it all depends on what setup u want. ALL MOTOR, TURBO or NITROUS. So if u want instant boost at a flick of a switch then get NITROUS. I also have a INTEGRA LS and since of low compression ratios i plan on turboing. PSI
:mad:
 

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you lost bottom end power with that header....thats what sucks about it....it takes away from the 1 thing that the LS has
 

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Bomexteg how streetable do you want your car to be? a couple of my freinds have built a all motor Ls and they take off very nice but they idle like crap due to the wild cams. One of them bored thier LS bottom end to 2.0 with i think 12:1 comp pistons and crower 404s with crower valve train and i/h/e he is putting down around 185whp just to give an example, but how much are u willing to spend? oh yeah gsr tranny would be lovely to have in a LS.

and something i didnt see mentioned is tired and rims, if you have stock rims maybe getting some cool looking lighter rims with better tires.

good luck with your decision.
 

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MRXMUFFIN said:
Bomexteg how streetable do you want your car to be? a couple of my freinds have built a all motor Ls and they take off very nice but they idle like crap due to the wild cams. One of them bored thier LS bottom end to 2.0 with i think 12:1 comp pistons and crower 404s with crower valve train and i/h/e he is putting down around 185whp just to give an example, but how much are u willing to spend? oh yeah gsr tranny would be lovely to have in a LS.

and something i didnt see mentioned is tired and rims, if you have stock rims maybe getting some cool looking lighter rims with better tires.

good luck with your decision.
how much would that cost, to bore to 2.0 then add the pistons and cams?
 

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Awsome man im looking at some major work on my RS b18b :D
This is my current set up im looking to go for
crower 403s
crower valve springs and titanium retainers
crower stainless steel valves
cam gears not to sure yet
Im also going to mill and port my head.
Thats the top end set up. Im thinking maybe doing my pistion rings while i got her ripped open but ill see. Then im going to get and ECU and look into air fuel control. After that will be some tranny work possibly swap out for maybe ITR tranny. But definatly a performance clutch adn lighter fly wheel. Goal 14.5 or better 1/4 time. This is going to take a while though im just a poor 19 year old university student hehe.
Good luck with what ever way you decide man.
 

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Solely92Hatch said:
how much would that cost, to bore to 2.0 then add the pistons and cams?
well my freinds did the work themselves with the boreing and all labor. Check crowers website for prices on the 404s and valve train. pistons cost alot too piston head were around 650 and i think rods are 300 but it depens where you go to. but this venture will cost a pretty penny. good luck
 

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I have the Crower 403's and they're very nice. I know a guy who put down 140whp with the cams, FPR and intake only. They don't "top out" at 155whp, it just depends how much work you want to put into it. As my car is now, with the S-AFC it idles "rough" but not "lumpy" with the AFC, it never even gets close to stalling, it stays pretty steady, usually between 700 and 800rpm, and that's with the cam gears tuned a little bit too, which makes it idle worse. And it's not even truly "tuned" yet, I just kinda estimated.

If you'll be happy with 150's whp and a lot more torque than most VTEC cars down low, you should totally do this setup. If you want insane, explosive high-end power and don't care about low-end or low-mid range, get VTEC. Cams give you nice top-end power, but you have the freedom to be more extreme with your valvetrain setup on the street with VTEC. Good luck. Any questions you can PM me.
 

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Hey Matt.... I've been waiting for the header since AUGUST 7, supposedly it's been backordered. As soon as I get it, I can stick it and my Carsound cat on my damn car and tune it. Except I really want another mountain bike, so that might delay the process a bit. Has anybody else had this much trouble getting DC to make a stainless header? Or is the company I'm going through screwing me?
 
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