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Discussion Starter #1
alright i was thinking all motor but i think i'm going to go the forced induction route...

now what upgrades, preperations, modifications should i do to my d16z6 to ensure that it runs strong and healthy with a supercharger...i want to make sure that my daily driver stays reliable.
 

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You get almost equivalent gains for the same price by doing a swap to a B16A2 or similar. If you want to go forced induction on top of that, then go from there, but its generally recommended that you swap first from a price/performance perspective.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well the d16z6 is already a swap into my 89 lx....and i can get a JRSC for a lot cheaper than almost any swap, especialy b16a2. And on top of all of that i'm kind of "d series" faithful, just because everyone graduates to the b16a
 

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A JRSC costs more than a B16A2 just to get it at your door. (~2300 vs. 2900), and the install should make both right around 3000-3200 US installed. There is a good reason that people go to a B-series engine. But whatever floats your boat....
 

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OK, HE ASKED WHAT HE SHOULD DO FOR PREPARATION FOR THE SC, NOT WHAT ENGINE YOU THINK HE SHOULD BUY.

All you need to do is make sure that your fuel system is in great shape, and that you get the right header and exhaust setup, kamikaze makes a great header for the sc so i suggest that route and at least 2.5 inch exhaust. you can build up internals and the such to make the engine capable of handling a shot of nitrous down the road but that will need to be TUNED.

goodluck D SERIES RULES!!
 

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Try this..I did, and I love it!!

I am glad to see there are some "d series" Faithfull peeps out there. If you want my opinion, get the Greddy Turbo kit. Here is why. Its much easier to install, it comes with its own fule management system, and when you build up your motor in the future, you can always ad more boost. I am running 5 1/2 lbs of boost now, and I love it. All my friends can't believe the difference. Plus, I got this stock intercooler from a 1G eclipse, and I am gonna bump it up to 9lbs without any problems. My friend was running 12lbs on his stock "DX" automatic, and he hasn't blown it up yet. (his test motor) so you will have no problems running up to 9lbs on your stock motor. You can get these kits for like 1400 shipped if you look around. Sorry for rambling, hope I helped.....also his stock dx ran a 14.4 in the 1/4 mile, and he got his stock ex (6lbs) to run a 14.6. I Think it's worth it. GOOD LUCK


Bye the way...my buddy did a swap, and he can't touch me........so swaps are generally not the answer!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so shouldn't have any problem running a supercharger on the way my engine is right now? i already have the Kamikazie header...but i really dont have to upgrade the valvetrain, injectors, fuel regulator, etc? also is it recommended that i get a unit like a turbo timer or something to manage the supercharger?
 

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I dont think you should have to get a turbo timer, because the Supercharger is belt driven, and the only reason a turbo timer is used, is to cool down the turbo (oil). Is there is reason you are so stuck on the JRSC??
 

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OshkyCiv said:
Is there is reason you are so stuck on the JRSC??
Vortech doesn't make a kit for the D series, so if you're set on supercharging, JRSC is the only option..
 

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..

97CIVICoupe said:
Vortech doesn't make a kit for the D series, so if you're set on supercharging, JRSC is the only option..
I didnt mean that, I know vortech doesn't make one, but the supercharger doesn't have me sold anymore. Y greddy turbo is more afforadable, and convienent. Deff a beter choice then the JRSC Kit.

I used to be a supercharger fan, but its funny how you can change with a little test drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well i know that a turbo timer is made for a turbo...i was wondering if there was an equivalent unit for a sc.

Now do turbos give you more than the supercharger? and reason why i'm going the JRSC route is because i know a good deal of people slanging the JRSC for around $1000-1300.
 

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well if you can get one that cheap, then go for it. Its all about what we can afford, and what we want to spend. I think the kits are close in horsepower gains. All the sites Io see, say the SC kit boost the stock civic to 142, and the turbo up to like 152. I just know how easy the turbo was to install, and 3 of my friends have blowers...and that shit was a bit harder. Its all in preference. I know I was gonna go SC, then I drove my friends stock greddy civic....and I changed my mind. Now I am extremely happy. Good luck though, either way, I am sure you will be pleased. Boost is Best! no matter where you get it or what it comes from!
 

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dingusjt said:
well i know that a turbo timer is made for a turbo...i was wondering if there was an equivalent unit for a sc.

Now do turbos give you more than the supercharger? and reason why i'm going the JRSC route is because i know a good deal of people slanging the JRSC for around $1000-1300.
Two points...

First, the only reason you need a turbo timer is to let the engine idle for a while before it shuts off. If you let your engine idle, like you're supposed to, there is no need for it, but ppl are stupid; what can I tell you? When you shut your motor off, the oil supply to the turbo stops. If you come wheeling-in and park, that turbo might be spinning 50,000 RPM. You shut your engine off and the oil supply stops. The turbo can run for quite a while after the engine is shut off, and spinning with no oil is bad, blah, blah, blah, hence, the need for a timer for stupid ppl. When you shut your motor off with a JRSC, it stops at the same time as the engine.

Secondly, on the TOP-END, turbos will give you more power than a SC. But, on the low-end and mid-range, SC's rule. So, it depends on your needs. If you want to race, turbo's are the way to go. If you want better drivability on the street, SC's are the way to go.

To put it into perspective, a SC will give you more power at 3,000 RPM than you now have at red line. With a turbo, most of the power gain will be at, near, or beyond red line.

If you like to go to the track on weekends, get a turbo. If you drive mostly on the street and go to the track seldom, get a SC.

BTW, you have the best SOHC engine Honda ever made, so you ARE starting off with the right motor. Don't be afraid to stick some money in it. You will be handsomely rewarded whichever route you decide to go... ;)
 

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In anticipation of the next question? :D
bdc why do you say that the z6 is superior to the rest of the sohc?
There are a lot of reasons. I don't want to get into a pissing contest with you, but I'll mention a few.

Sounds like you have a nice setup. I can understand you wanting to defend your choice of engines. Nobody wants to be wrong, but I was simply stating a well known fact and, yes, my opinion. I didn't mean to step on anybody's dreams...

You are correct in saying, a Z6 block with a Y8 head is better than a Z6 block with a Z6 head. Why? A Y8 head has a slightly smaller combustion chamber volume - and I mean slight. It will give you .5:1 [dot-5] more compression. Y8 blocks, on the other hand, are prone to main/rod bearing failure. Why? I don't know, but it's common knowledge. So, the hot setup is a Z6 block with a Y8 head, or just forget the Y8 head and the .5 higher compression ratio.

You've already mentioned the OBD1 vs OBD2 situation. The advantage should be obvious to anyone except a newbie; so, no explanation necessary. Also, with a Z6 engine you don't have to deal with a crank fluctuation sensor, knock sensor, dual heated filament broadband oxygen sensors and all that happy horsesh!t.

I would say there are more bolt-ons and internal parts available for Z6's than any other SOHC Honda engine, but I don't feel like playing Perry Mason, so don't bother asking.

Z6's will bolt into ALL post-'84 CiViCs'. With a Y8 you'll have to fart around with wiring harnesses and so forth.

Anyway, these are a few reasons. I'm not alone in this view, so it shouldn't have come as any surprise to you. Is this really the first time you've ever heard someone say this?
 

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Turbo timers weren't necessarily designed with 'stupid' people in mind.. It just makes it easier.. Instead of sitting in your car for a minute or two while it's running to let the oil circulate, why not let some piece of electronics do it for you, and take your car key with you?
 

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BlackDeuceCoupe said:
In anticipation of the next question? :D
There are a lot of reasons. I don't want to get into a pissing contest with you, but I'll mention a few.

Sounds like you have a nice setup. I can understand you wanting to defend your choice of engines. Nobody wants to be wrong, but I was simply stating a well known fact and, yes, my opinion. I didn't mean to step on anybody's dreams...

You are correct in saying, a Z6 block with a Y8 head is better than a Z6 block with a Z6 head. Why? A Y8 head has a slightly smaller combustion chamber volume - and I mean slight. It will give you .5:1 [dot-5] more compression. Y8 blocks, on the other hand, are prone to main/rod bearing failure. Why? I don't know, but it's common knowledge. So, the hot setup is a Z6 block with a Y8 head, or just forget the Y8 head and the .5 higher compression ratio.

You've already mentioned the OBD1 vs OBD2 situation. The advantage should be obvious to anyone except a newbie; so, no explanation necessary. Also, with a Z6 engine you don't have to deal with a crank fluctuation sensor, knock sensor, dual heated filament broadband oxygen sensors and all that happy horsesh!t.

I would say there are more bolt-ons and internal parts available for Z6's than any other SOHC Honda engine, but I don't feel like playing Perry Mason, so don't bother asking.

Z6's will bolt into ALL post-'84 CiViCs'. With a Y8 you'll have to fart around with wiring harnesses and so forth.

Anyway, these are a few reasons. I'm not alone in this view, so it shouldn't have come as any surprise to you. Is this really the first time you've ever heard someone say this?
BDC - if you swap a Y8 head onto a D16z6 bolck, would you have to switch ECU as well? What about engine wire harness, or the OBDII factor?

Thanks.
 

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imported said:
BDC - if you swap a Y8 head onto a D16z6 bolck, would you have to switch ECU as well? What about engine wire harness, or the OBDII factor?
The best way to go is with a chipped P28 ECU using your stock harness...

http://www.hondaecu.com/ecutunning.html
 
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