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i currently running a set of tokico HP and skunk2 sleeve coilover. the ride is kinda stiff and harsh :( . this time i am thinking of getting koni and GC :clap .
What is the best ground control coilover spring rates to use with koni yellow shocks? who made the best sway bar for 5th gen prelude and what size should i get? Thanks
 

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If there was a "best rate" then why would they offer a few dozen different rates??

What are your current spring rates and what do you plan on doing with the car?
 

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a set of koni yellows and h&r sports should be a smooth ride. tein would be the 1st choice but that depends on how deep your pocket is becuase tein costs a pretty penny.
 

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speaking of TEIN, just exactly how is their name pronounced?

i know that its a combination of TECHNICAL and INNOVATION, which would lead me to believe it would be pronounced "teh-IN."

others have pronounced it "tine," as in stein."

still others have said "tayne."

"tomahtoe," "tomaytoe" i still would like to know...
 

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theflipimage said:
speaking of TEIN, just exactly how is their name pronounced?

i know that its a combination of TECHNICAL and INNOVATION, which would lead me to believe it would be pronounced "teh-IN."

others have pronounced it "tine," as in stein."

still others have said "tayne."

"tomahtoe," "tomaytoe" i still would like to know...
haha-you say tomato, i say tom aa to --lol-

anyways, yeah-tien would be my first choice as well, of course if you have deep enough pockets. i think they have setups starting around 900 or 1000 bucks. im sure it would be worth it though.
 

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The Tein SS is a far inferior setup to GC/Koni, especially if you're planning on doing any actual racing.
 

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white...

i'm curious...
what about the upper range of tein's line e.g. gymkana master and circuit master?

are those not quality items as well that's up to par with gc/koni combos?
where have you heard that they are not as good?

certainly the gc/koni is the more cost effective way to go (i'm set to switch over to this as well - you've made a convert out of me!)

i know that the majority of those successful in grassroots racing have been and continue to rely on the gc/koni setup, but wonder if tein's problem is its lack of popularity among us amateur racers.
 

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Tein's upper-level coilover setups are indeed very good, although most in that price range are as well. It's the low-end SS and Basic coilovers that just don't have any advantage compared to GC/Koni:

-Same price if not a bit more expensive
-Far weaker damping rates... just not very aggressive
-Fewer spring options
-Higher cost/turnaround time for rebuilding/modifying the shocks, warranty issues, etc.
-SS coilovers are not even 1/100th as proven in racing
-Customer service not up to par with GC or Koni
-SS model previously had rust issues
-GC sleeves are easier to adjust
-Can't run GC's new top mounts (increases shock travel) with Teins

The key to understanding the Super Street name is that they are made for the STREET. But when GCs perform better and are also just as good if not BETTER for the street (and with superior damping and more spring rate choice as well as customer support, I would say that they are), I see no reason at all to buy the SS coilovers.

GCs and off-the-shelf (OTS) Konis aren't the end-all be-all answer. There are better setups, including better shocks made by Koni themselves. However they are by far the best setup IMO for the price, especially if you need a daily driver and a racer in one. It's like a basic Porsche 911 for $30k. It's not the best car you can get, but at that price it would be damn hard to do better.
 

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great explanation, as usual...

need a little more input...
what spring rates should i ask for when it's time to order my sleeves?

you had posted it before but i can't remember...

if you can remember, i'm in the same boat as you with a daily driver/weekend autocrosser ride - in this case a 97 civic hatch.

thanks again!

ps...
i tried to sign your guestbook on your website, but when trying to finally post, your server went kaput and you missed out on a great message! BOO!
 

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theflipimage said:
great explanation, as usual...

need a little more input...
what spring rates should i ask for when it's time to order my sleeves?

you had posted it before but i can't remember...

if you can remember, i'm in the same boat as you with a daily driver/weekend autocrosser ride - in this case a 97 civic hatch.

thanks again!
I run 380/350 on my 2350lbs Integra with 25.4/19mm bars and -2.0/1.4 camber on race tires... this is a soft/understeery setup on paper compared to most auto-x setups, but apparently it works because I have yet to lose a race this season in 3 series... :D I think you should go for a little more spring in back than I have... I have a lot more frontal weight reduction than rear, so the rear tends to rotate a bit better than your average Civic hatch.

What bar setup do you have? Any idea on what camber you'll be running? I'd say 400/450 or something like that would be a good place to start. The beauty of GCs is that swapping springs is a cinch and the springs are cheap and easy to find used. You're not doomed to weeks of waiting like you would probably be with Teins. ;) Also keep in mind that you can use the Konis to dial in some more rotation for autocross. I usually end up with mine set about 40% stiff F and 90% R on average, which makes a huge difference in handling balance.

theflipimage said:
ps...
i tried to sign your guestbook on your website, but when trying to finally post, your server went kaput and you missed out on a great message! BOO!
Aww crap! Thanks for trying though! Server isn't always great...
 

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what's funny is how my car handled this past sunday at the local porsche club event...

here's my setup:
stock motor (d16y8)
front neuspeed tower bar/ebay rear tower bar
neuspeed sport springs f/r
kyb agx dampers set to max 4 f/r max 8
NO SWAYBARS at all
16" rota circuit 8 on falken ziex 512 (can't afford a set soley for autocrossing yet - getting 15" wheels w/ falken azenis 615 tires soon)
front tire pressure @ 40 psi
rear tire pressure @ 38 psi
camber set at -2 f/0 r
removed carpeting and back seats

my car was oversteering like crazy!
i believe a lot of it has to do with my all-season tires as they were squirmy compared to my worn out kuhmo 712 summer only tires from last season which held up pretty well - they certainly had more grip than my new falkens...

as well as last season i ran -2 f/-2 r.

have to sort it out in my head some more...
 

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You had 2 deg. camber in front and NO camber in back and you're wondering why it's oversteering... with the shocks way stiffer in back too.......?
 

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yeah...

and not to mention i did not have the same level of grip as my old set of worn tires...

the fronts were chunked up good but the rears looked like they didn't have any marks on them...

for the next event i'm gonna have the rears reset back to -2 like last season...
i had it changed to 0 originally to help reduce the wear on my long daily commutes (toe is set at 0 all around too).

do you have any experience with camber gauge tools?
i'm thinking it would be more cost effective than paying $80 each time i adjust my suspension, especially when i switch to the gc/koni setup.
 

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I've found that the camber and ride height I want match up perfectly with each other without a camber adjustment kit. I'm running -2.0/-1.4, which is pretty common. Most people run less rear camber than front, not the same... the same = too much understeer. I would try low 2.x/low 1.x.
 
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