[StyleTEG]

I think my distributor may be going bad, but before I shell out the cash to replace it I wanted to make sure it was acting up. Here are the symptoms I have

There is a rattling when the engine is cold. From all that I can tell, its coming from the distributor itself. If not the distributor behind it. This rattling/clacking goes away when warm.

My timing mark moves +/- 2 when I check it with a timing gun (did all the proper steps)

I also have a rough idle at times, but that could really be due to something else.

I recently did a 90k tune up, I have brand new wires, distributor cap, and rotor.

Any idea's? Thanks much in advance.

 

[StyleTEG]

The motor does kinda shake, not really bad though. The spark plugs are new, I just went out and checked them and there is no sign of any abnormal wear or damage.

I think you are talking about the rotor, which is new. Any idea on how to check for misfire?

 

[StyleTEG]

Take the whole distributor off? or just the cap?

I have brand new distributor cap, rotor, wires, and plugs
all less than 200miles on them.

Thanks

 

[StyleTEG]

well, I really am not sure its ellectrical.

The problem is on cold startup there is a rattling sound coming from the distributor. If it is not the distributor it is directly behind it (which I guess could really only be the cylidner or part of the intake manifold?)

So basicly, I am trying to fix/figure out what the rattling is. I have herd that distributors that are failing sometimes rattle, so I just want to confirm that it is a bad distributor be for I spend the cash to replace it.

The only other strange symptoms I have with the car is semi rough & fluctuating idle, and the timing mark moves slightly from between 16 and 18.

 

[StyleTEG]

Thanks for the responses

I just had a 90,000 tune up, so the valves have been adjusted. It was done by the local honda dealership, which is actually quite good (unlike most dealerships I have seen/used).

It would make sense that it could be caused by no oil circulating, but oddly enough it is only one cylinder (if that is where it is coming from) and not all of them?

And it takes quite a while for it to stop. It litteraly stops by the time the engine temp has reached its normal operating mark.It seams if it was oil, that maybe it would stop much sooner? Not sure, thanks again for the response.

btw, I am using 5w30 synth oil, and I pulled for codes and got none.