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Discussion Starter #1
Well I just got a GSR (used to have an LS), and it has about 30k miles on the engine rebuild. I'm a delivery driver and I've been considering switching over to Redline Synthetic motor oil or Amsoil motor oil. My question is, since I start my car often, maybe 10-15 times a day, which weight oil would be the best? I am thinking of 10w40, 5w30 or even 0w30 (40?) be a better viscosity for start up protection? I don't race OFTEN but it's important to me that the oil I choose can hold up when I push to 8000 rpms.
 

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flyingtoaster said:
I hear that engine block heaters are good for cold starts, but maybe that's just for cold weather.

they're good for real cold weather like mountains and whatnot... let it run for about 30-60 sec when you start it to let the oil warm up to flow better and reach nooks and crannies like up in the valvetrain... then dont ask too much of the engine till the oil is at flowable viscosity... get an oil pressure gauge if ur worried...
 

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It might also be a good idea to bring another key and lock the door while the engine is running, but only when you can keep an eye on the car, of course.
 

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flyingtoaster said:
It might also be a good idea to bring another key and lock the door while the engine is running, but only when you can keep an eye on the car, of course.


if hes delivering in suburbia, hes just running 15 feet to a door... no biggie... but the second key could be a good idea... if he can remember to not lock the keys in the car...
 

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hobie237 said:
if hes delivering in suburbia, hes just running 15 feet to a door... no biggie... but the second key could be a good idea... if he can remember to not lock the keys in the car...

:hehs hahaha...been there....
 

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I think the whole idea behind the turbo timeer is that it keeps the engine runiing, therefore keeping the oil flowing. Basically what everyone here is trying to encourage the fella to do besides not having to start up his motor over so many times. However, I don't really see any need for it.

I think your starter would take the toll before your engine honestly. The weight is basically for temp purposes. Once its warmed up, it shouldn't really matter.

I'd advise changing the oil every 3000 miles. Check oil level as often as you can to see if its eating/burning oil.
 

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hobie237 said:
i would change earlier than 3000 miles in this case...

damn, you must be an oil change fanatic. My car manual recomends oil changes at every 7,500 miles. Of course I dont wait that long I usally change my oil about every 3,500. Always use stock filters or filters that are proven to be better than stock. thats very important if you want you oil to be filtered properly. As for the thread starter, id suggest getting some of that new oil made especcialy for start up or just leave your car running,.
 

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Prelude94' said:
damn, you must be an oil change fanatic. My car manual recomends oil changes at every 7,500 miles. Of course I dont wait that long I usally change my oil about every 3,500. Always use stock filters or filters that are proven to be better than stock. thats very important if you want you oil to be filtered properly. As for the thread starter, id suggest getting some of that new oil made especcialy for start up or just leave your car running,.

i use cheaper oil and change frequently... ferrari gets it at 1000 miles, the porsche will be the same, miata and truck get it at 3k...
 

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Prelude94' said:
damn, you must be an oil change fanatic. My car manual recomends oil changes at every 7,500 miles. Of course I dont wait that long I usally change my oil about every 3,500. Always use stock filters or filters that are proven to be better than stock. thats very important if you want you oil to be filtered properly. As for the thread starter, id suggest getting some of that new oil made especcialy for start up or just leave your car running,.
I don't completely trust the stock filters. I bought one for an oil change last summer, and the parts guy said that if it looks smaller than the stock filter I have, that's okay, it's just the new design. Sure enough, it was smaller. I did a google search and several people confirmed that Frahm is making Honda filters now. Frahm makes the $3.00 filters. I jsut buy Mobil 1 because I know it has alot of paper in it.
 

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flyracerx said:
get an turbo/na timer from apexi lol :hehe
That's what I do...
 

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hobie237 said:
ferrari gets it at 1000 miles, the porsche will be the same, miata and truck get it at 3k...
What type of Porsche? The 911's and equivelent with the 15 quart wet sump don't need to be changed until 15,000 miles...but hey, 15 quarts of synthetic should go quite a ways...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm thinking of running Redline Synth with Amsoil oil filters. Both available locally. I will change oil every 3k. I check my oil about every week to ensure it is not "dirty" and that the levels aren't low. There is a very small oil leak under the hood (I'll try to post pics soon) but doesn't seem to really affect the oil level, at least I can't tell. I don't even know what kind of oil was ran previously...but I was much happier before when I had my LS and ran synthetic (Mobil 1 Tri-Synth).

Also, Redline seems to make a couple different Manual Transmission Fluids. Anyone know which type I need for a GSR? Thanks.

4DR
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Okay, well I'm pretty set on trying Redline 5w-40 in my teg. Now about tranny fluid, should I go with the Redline MTL (70W80) or use the MT-90 (75W90)? Also, if someone could tell me how many quarts it takes to fill the tranny fluid up, I'd appreciate it. I think the GS-Rs take about 4.5 quarts of oil but I'm unsure about the manual transmission fluid (edit: called the dealer, they said it takes 3 quarts tranny fluid and that they put in 4.2 quarts oil). How about power steering fluid amount? They couldn't tell me that...

Also, anything else I need to change/replace during my oil change, besides new oil/new oil filter/tranny fluid? I know that the TF doesn't need to be changed but I don't know how old it is and I want to change it anyways...
 
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