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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey what's up, I'm new in the turbo forum, normally I'm big on n/a setups but I'm thinking of turning over a new leaf. I have a 98 hatch with the Y7 motor, and I have a Y8 head/manifold & tranny with Phantom Grip in it. I haven't installed any of teh Y8 setup yet. I would like some advice...how will this work:

Funds are hard to come by but I'm a smart & patient shopper so if I need to build it piece by piece I can do that. I'm trying to decide whether to stay non-VTEC and turbo it, or do the VTEC head and then turbo that. Which would be better? A friend has a very low mileage TD04 from his 2002 WRX which he just replaced with a modded snail so he's offering me it for $175. Should I use it and do my own intercooler/BOV/piping? Or is it not going to work with my small displacement?

Help me out, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Would a T4 work good on an LS. If the larger displacement can spool it up quicker...I'm thinking if I turbo my car I'll stay non-VTEC to keep some of the other costs down (and tuning hassles)

Because it is just my daily driver but I need some juice! Don't know if I can afford an LS swap though, just to put this turbo on it!
 

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Wait. First you have an SOHC, now a DOHC, then a TD04, now a T4...hehehe, what's going on?

The TD04 will work fine on the SOHC, and I'd just keep it non-VTEC, easier. The T4 is probably a little big for an LS motor, in a street car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, here's the deal: I am NOT going to do an LS swap, just don't have the funds. So right now I have a d16y7 non-VTEC 1.6-liter. I have a Y8 top end and tranny waiting to install right now. I am wondering should I try to grab this WRX turbo from my friend, will it work or will it lag too much on this motor. I dont know all the specs like a/r ratios or whatever I'm not a turbo expert. He jsut told me it's a TD04 so that's what I know.

I also just got an aluminum flywheel and I put a Phantom Grip in the EX tranny, will this help with the turbo setup? I'm just trying to fugure out should I spring for a big n/a cam or get this turbo and start building a kit?
 

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he is talking about a TD04 not a T4 there is a difference, the T4 is a laggy turbo for the street but the TD04 is a smaller turbo....hey kluge....how do you like the "Phantom Grip"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
CRXtc said:
he is talking about a TD04 not a T4 there is a difference, the T4 is a laggy turbo for the street but the TD04 is a smaller turbo....hey kluge....how do you like the "Phantom Grip"?
Hmm...I guess it's time for me to research which turbo is exactly on the WRX, because that thing blasts out 227hp without mods...

Sorry I can't say how the PG lsd is, I haven't put the tranny in yet since I installed the PG unit!!! Sucks, I've had it in for a couple months but it's just sitting on the garage floor. :( Gotta find time. But my Clutchmasters flywheel is on the way and I wanted to get that first so I wouldn't have to take the tranny back off again. Make sense? I should invest in a good clutch while I'm at it.

Well, if I do turbo I will sell the VTEC head that will give me the money to get the turbo. If I only run like 6-8 lbs boost I should get away without using an intercooler right? Or should I just pipe it in there right from the start?
 

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Go to www.matt3t4.20m.com and read the tech articles on the Honda Tech page.

A head gasket is not the answer, for the most part. I would never do a gasket on a B-series motor, but on this one...maybe. Read the articles on effective compression, and understand that they are made with only street cars in mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I know about static/dynamic compression and engine physics etc...just don't know how to interpret specs like a/r ratios and whatnot on the turbos and how they relate to my needs.

Some things you might add to your site in regards to the static compression & boost levels is that running high compression with boost dramatically increases stress on internals due to the rapid pressure spikes in the cylinder, and forces you to use more retard than the low-c/r setup with higher boost.
 

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In reality though, it's not very prevailent in street cars. In full blown race cars, that's an issue, but I don't write for them. Stock compression isn't even really that high. But I do agree, in some instances (when it is hot out, lack of octane, etc...), it becomes necessary to retard timimg...
 

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I ran a gasket on my old D16Z6. It did help, but that was back when I didn't know shit about motors. It will work for ya though.

160-180 crank is near 210-220 fly...ya think? It's getting close, but I would think the motor could sustain that well tuned. Just don't make the mistake I made, and run for about 6 miles on 10psi, pegging redline at nearly 145mph.

Rod bearing go bye-bye
 
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