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Tech guide: How to change master and slave cylinders..

7613 Views 11 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  digink
i'm pretty bored so i'm gonna type this up....if anyone feel like they need to change it you can refer to this...if you have any questions just ask...

I just recently changed mine and I have to admitt it made the car feel a lot lighter to more straining yourself trying to shift and the car feels a lot smoother....the parts are $60 for the master and $30 for slave cylinder....don't go to Honda...they charge you double for each...and about 220 bucks to install them....

First locate where the master cylinder's in the right corner of the firewall looks like an alluminum shaft the size of a banana with two hoses coming metal one go to the slave cylinder and the other to the fluid to remove will need a Ratchet and 12mm size nut...there are two 12mm size bolts hoding the master in place..located right behind your clutch will need to take out the spring and remove the little cotter pin that holds the clutch and the master cylinder together...pull that out and it should be detached from the MC remove the two nuts on the MC and pull it out...the nuts are tricky to get to...but once you remove that..then the rest of the work is a piece of cake...

now go to the engine bay...unscrew the golden metal bolt that holds the metal pipe to the cylinder...and remove the reservoir container and the hose...take that out and leave it aside....install your clutch master cylinder the order it was removed..put the pins back into the holder and put the spring back...connect the hoses in the engine bay....make sure you tighten them as hard as you can...but not to the point of shredding the are done with the master...

now everyone thinks the master is a bitch to remove...but it is the slave that is a remove have to remove the fan from the radiator to get access to it....the slave cylinder is fairly small..located right infront of the tranny with a black rubber thing attached to the left has one tube going out of it and two nuts holding it in remove the fan...there are 2 bolts on top..and two bolts on the bottom which may require you to jack the car up to get access to...remove the wire connected to it and pull the fan out and the slave cylinder can be removed without any problem...two bolts underneath it..forgot what size but fit them up and take them out with the right ratchet....unscrew the golden bolt once again....and put the fluid in a suitable put the new slave cylinder in but dont attach the fan back up yet...tight up the golden bolt and losen up the bleeder screw....

the clutch will feel like it has no pressure and will go up and down very easily...and it won't go back up unless you lift it...
you will now have to bleed it...go buy one of the brake bleeding kit...3.99...looks like a little container with a top and a clear hose attached to it....loosen then bleeder screw located infront of the slave cylinder and attach the clear hose to it...fill the container with brake fluid and attach the tube there...make sure you keep the reservoir tank full at ALL TIMES when bleeding..have a friend pump the clutch a few times and you watch as the air bubble is being pumped out of your cylinder...have him lift the clutch slowly but push it down the air gets out...tell him to keep doing that till you no longer see any air bubbles coming out of the soon as you see no more air bubbles come out...immediately tell him to have the clutch pedal pressed to the floor and hold it there.....then tight up the bleeder screw....remember when bleeding ALWAYS have your reservoir tank full....or else air will get inside and you will have to start all takes about 5 minutes to bleed it with the container...anyways when you tighten up the bleed screw....lift up the clutch pedal will draw fluid into the system and will be hard to push back down with hand....when u feel like you have pressure in the clutch...bleeding is reattach the fans and take your car for a test will be like new...smooth gears better for the clutch cuz you're not trying to force it in and wearing it out...

hope that helps....thanks to Weenie, Lakemoutlude, and the other guy forgot his name for the help on installing and bleeding the system....4Bidden helped me diagnosed it..
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Stickied for now, I will build a FAQ soon now that my powers have been restored. ;) Excellent info Murdah.
Ludeboy said:
Stickied for now, I will build a FAQ soon now that my powers have been restored. ;) Excellent info Murdah.

yeah...when we get an FAQ up we should get a lot of info on how to do our own money..
Hey Murdah, I just brought up FAQS again, so I am unstickying this and it has been placed in FAQS.
sure...combine everything in one thread...
LakeMount !!! bring back some of the tech guide articles:) :D
agreed :)
Haynes Manual

Can anyone tell me if there is a Haynes available for the JDM 1998 Honda Prelude SiR or a similar Maintenance Work Manual ??
What were the symtoms of your bad clutch cylinders??
I was told that mine is leaking on the inside of the firewall. Right now my clutch pedal is VERY stiff and when I let out my clutch it doesn't uniformly let out. It studders as I am letting it out. It is kinda hard to get a nice fluid release of my clutch.
Does this sound like only a bad clutch cylinder or does it sound like a combo of a bad clutch cylinder and a bad clutch??
thanks a lot for the info :D
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
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