Honda and Acura Car Forums banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I just found out that my thermostat is stuck open, and well, I'm not to sure if this is a problem or not, some people here say its good, since the engine would be cooled down no matter what, other say its not, that it should open up at the appropriate temp., what are the pro/cons with this problem, and should I just replace it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
I just replaced my thermostat on my civic LX and it was the same situation - stuck open. To answer your question, I had driven the car for several months with it stuck open and there was of course no major issue but I was not getting optimal gas mileage and the heater would not work well either. Basically look at it this way, the car was designed to reach a certain operating temp and by driving it around at a much cooler temp you aren't allowing it to get optimal performance. Basically your car will remain in open loop mode and hence burn a more fuel rich mixture than what it needs to, so you're pretty much just wasting your gas/performance by not replacing it; it's a cheap part and easy to replace, just do a search and you should find how to replace it, or pm me.

3z
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
if your car is just a beater....there is nothing wrong with it. honda operates best at standard operating temp. if the thermostat is always open then it keeps it cooler than it should be. i would just replace it, it would take you 20 minutes and all you would need to do is fill back up the coolant you lost when you undid the hose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
lead said:
if your car is just a beater....there is nothing wrong with it. honda operates best at standard operating temp. if the thermostat is always open then it keeps it cooler than it should be. i would just replace it, it would take you 20 minutes and all you would need to do is fill back up the coolant you lost when you undid the hose.
Yeah, 3ztwint gave me a step by step process, pretty damn simple, Haynes has it as well, but damn, they make you change the whole damn thing, including the coolant still inside the block...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
delSlower said:
Yeah, 3ztwint gave me a step by step process, pretty damn simple, Haynes has it as well, but damn, they make you change the whole damn thing, including the coolant still inside the block...
Well, I did everything, changed the thermostat, and still, the gauge stays at about 1 bar or so, even lower then when I had the old thermostat in it! What can be going wrong, also, when I did change the thermostat, the car was idling low, then revving back up by itself for about 5 mins, now it stopped, what could that be? THANKS!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
your sender might be on the fritz, you can pull it off and put it in boiling water to test it, at 189 is should click over and touch the middle....or just buy a new one and see if that solves it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
lead said:
your sender might be on the fritz, you can pull it off and put it in boiling water to test it, at 189 is should click over and touch the middle....or just buy a new one and see if that solves it

If the sensor is screwy, would it effect anything, because my radiator fan still turns on, and coolant still flows freely, just that the gauge on my cluster shows little change....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
if the sender is worn out it will turn your fan on early and will (i believe, i need to check to be sure) give you a false reading on the guage, course your guage could be broken too
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
lead said:
if the sender is worn out it will turn your fan on early and will (i believe, i need to check to be sure) give you a false reading on the guage, course your guage could be broken too
Damn gauge berly moves now that I changed the thermostat, anyone have suggestions on what I can do next, keep putting money into this single problem.. also, I just noticed my low fuel light never comes on ('95 Si, so it does have it), anyone know whats up with that? THANKS!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
test the sender the way i told you if it is broken replace it
if not it might be your guage might want to pick up a spair cluster cheap
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
lead said:
test the sender the way i told you if it is broken replace it
if not it might be your guage might want to pick up a spair cluster cheap

Yeah, I have the sender on order, damn autozone doesn't have it stocked, as for the cluster replacement, was that for the fuel light problem, or both?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
226 Posts
well....both really if the fuel pump light isn't comming on it is either the floater is stuck...or the led or light behind it went out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
solblu said:
Is the bulb good for the fuel light?

You need the engine to warm up to operating temp for the oil to properly lubricate the enine.

Is the fan staying on all the time or does it only come on after the car rus for a while?
I dont know if the bulb just burned out, the light has never came on....

As for the fan, it comes on only after the engine has been running for a while, before I changed the thermostat, the gauge on the cluster would move a few notches, now, it stays at C.....
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top