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Discussion Starter #1
I have a few questions.

Is there anything else I would really need besides maybe a new clutch if i get a JRSC? My car is bone stock now. Do you think my clutch would slip? It has 37k miles on it.

Whats my fuel economy going to be like? What about a high flow fuel pump? How much are they? Colder Spark plugs? Whats that going to do for me?

I know I am dumb, but Im trying to become smarter.:)
 

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clutch, no worries... fix it when it goes out.

fuel economy... i went to palm springs with my friend. She took her integra, I took mine. she has intake and exhaust, I got a JRSC and a mess of stuff. she had a little more than half and i had half a tank. so the difference is minimal. not even a gallon difference.

fuel pump, no need unless you plan to go 8psi

colder plugs just work better with the JRSC.

Bolt on the kit and go! You dont need a thing other than that, except maybe a new head gasket. (in case the stock one gets damaged during the install)

chances are, smog isnt important to you... i bought mine for that reason and read the post about smog check to see what happened.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How much is a new head gasket?

A guy told me that tuning is the key. I think wherever I get mine installed, I will have them tune it too. Maybe dyno it.

What is this smog thing you are talking about? I mean I know what smog is but, I dont know how the JRSC relates to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just read you thread about te smog check. I guess it has something to do with passing emissions or something. \

Anyway, How long do you think a stock clutch should last?

Also, what is "retarding the timing" mean?

Do you think it is well worth the $2700?

Thanks for the info.
 

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I think you can get it cheaper than $2700. Try either www.haiparts.com or www.groupbuycenter.com or www.modacar.com.

Retarding your timing: basically your car comes stock with about 16 degrees before TDC. With a supercharger, turbo charger, or nitrous for that matter, you'll need to retard the timing to prevent detonation or knock, unless you have a modification that will allow you to run stock timing such as the JR map controller, which is an additional amount of $.

As far as the clutch, fix it when it goes out, and go faster by getting a lighter weight flywheel at the same time. Your stock clutch should last quite a while. I put my blower on at around 27K miles or less and have been running on the stock clutch for almost a year now, and I don't drive it easy either. I'm a boostaholic.

high flow fuel pump will not affect your fuel economy whatsoever. They should cost just over $100 for a good one like the GSS-342 by walbro.

Colder spark plugs will help keep the engine a bit cooler which in turn will help reduce detonation. They are only about $10 for 4 NKG copper plugs.

You can get a regular headgasket from your honda dealership, and that, along with a throttle body gasket if needed, should only cost between $30-40.

If you have the option to dyno tune it, get it done with a lamda o2 sensor so they can adjust your fuel pressure as well. It's well worth the $50-$150 dollars you'll pay to know what yur car is like stock, and what your car is like with an SC. And then you get to drive it and it's a blast. Then you'll want to go faster, and you'll want to spend more money :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I hate feeling stupid

exciv2000 said:
Retarding your timing: basically your car comes stock with about 16 degrees before TDC. With a supercharger, turbo charger, or nitrous for that matter, you'll need to retard the timing to prevent detonation or knock, unless you have a modification that will allow you to run stock timing such as the JR map controller, which is an additional amount of $.
What does 16 degrees before TDC mean?

So I would have to have a JR map controller to run it with stock settings?

When I retard the timing, what am I preventing from dentonating?

Do you have to take your car into a shop to have them retard it or is it something you can do at home?


Thanks
 

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Re: I hate feeling stupid

Poodie said:


What does 16 degrees before TDC mean?

So I would have to have a JR map controller to run it with stock settings?

When I retard the timing, what am I preventing from dentonating?

Do you have to take your car into a shop to have them retard it or is it something you can do at home?


Thanks
I put on my JRSC on my GS-R about 3 weeks ago now, My clutch is starting to slip a little but I have 65,000 miles on the original clutch. you will need either a timing light or a PGM tester from the dealership to retard your timing, I would suggest letting someone do it who has done it before.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am hoping that the plce I get it installed at could time and tune it for me.
 

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Re: I hate feeling stupid

Poodie said:


What does 16 degrees before TDC mean?

So I would have to have a JR map controller to run it with stock settings?

When I retard the timing, what am I preventing from dentonating?

Do you have to take your car into a shop to have them retard it or is it something you can do at home?


Thanks
16 degrees before TDC is where the spark plug in your engine will fire. TDC is "Top Dead Center" which basically means the piston has moved up as far as it will go in the cylinder before it starts going back down. So if your car stock is firing sparks as 16 degrees BEFORE TDC, then that should tell you that it's firing BEFORE the piston is all the way up.
People who boost their cars in any way usually end up retarding the ignition timing, meaning they move the Degrees of before TDC down, so for instance it might be 10 degrees before TDC. The reason they do this is because there is less chance that the engine will detonate.
Now you need a description of detonation, and it basically ties in with the TDC above. Picture two cylinders in an engine, both functional and working perfectly. Now picture adding more air (boost) into both cylinders before they close off the intake valves, compress the air/fuel mixture and fire the spark plug. Lets say one of the cylinders is set at 16 degrees before TDC, and another one is set at 10 degrees. We'll say the cylinder at 10 degrees before TDC is still working fine with the addition of boost, you can picture the air come in, the ignition of air/fuel, and the exhaust perfectly. Now lets say the the cylinder with 16 degrees before TDC is detonating with the addition of boost. What this means is that the spark plug is firing too early, and the air/fuel mixture is getting burned up and trying to force the piston down, but the piston isn't ready to go down yet, it's still going up. When those two opposite forces occur at the same time, it's called detonation, and you can usually but not always hear it... It sounds like knocking or pinging in your engine. It's very damaging to your engine, and is a good way to be replacing it very soon. Most engines can handle a little of it here and there, but any length of it for any prolonged periods of time, and something has to give, and it's usually the rod connecting the piston to the crank, which will usually go through a side of your engine... Just imagine your engine falling apart like your favorite lego toy falling to the ground from 4 feet. That's why we say detonation is bad, and we try and tell everyone how to avoid it at all costs. Another way to avoid detonation is to use high octane gas, and add more fuel to the detonating engine.

You don't NEED to use the JR map controller to run stock timing, unless you want your engine possibly detonating, even at tip-in (tip in detonation is the point in between vacuum and boost where the engine can detonate because of lack of proper amount of fuel and you'll probably never hear it). JR should put the map controller in with their kits and not sell them seperately, but otherwise it is a good idea to have, but it will also make your car run pretty rich. if you don't get the map controller, just retard the timing and everything will be cool.

You can retard the timing on your own, or you can have just about any shop do it. Hell, the dudes down at Checkers/Kragen0 could probably do it for you. It's pretty easy, but I'd suggest having someone do it for you when you get the JRSC installed by them... I mean they are right there anyways and the instructions with the JRSC tell them to do it, so it will be more a matter of finding out how well they follow instructions, eh?

You've got a lot of good questions and I know you're trying to learn as much about it as possible, and that's good too. Don't feel stupid either, as we all started the same place you are starting at one point in time. Check out this link for more information on supercharging hondas and acuras and tuning them: http://www.hondavision.com/showthread.php?threadid=1335
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for taking the time to explain all that. That helped a lot.

I really appreciate all the help you guys have given me.


I have another question, probably a stupid one, but here it goes.
If for some reason my supercharger breaks internally, will my car still run?
 

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hrm, probably. It depends on what breaks. If it's just the pulley on the thing (or how about the belt slips off of it) then yes it should still work. Unless you spray fuel (as in a wet nitrous kit) on your rotors, they should last a long time. The fuel from a wet nitrous kit will eat away the enamel coating on the blades, and that enamel could get sucked into your engine in tiny pieces (and probably burn off in the cylinders). If you ever hear metal against metal grinding, then it could the SC blades, and then it's worth checking out, but otherwise these things have a warranty of 100,000 miles, and they'll easily reach or surpass that with no problem, so it'd be a while before you'd have to get it rebuilt... maybe around 5-6 years, which is recommended after 100,000 miles anyways.

No problem on the questions :) anytime!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What is a Jackson Racing trick switch relay?

Do you guys think the upgrade to like 8psi boost is worth it?

exciv2000, do you feel 6psi is enough?

I am not getting a JRSC to race all my friends, probably will but, I want something fun to drive. A daily driver that isnt that hard on my car.

You have any problems or anything with your JRSC?

I like the JRSC because from what I have heard it's very reliable and comes with the 100,000 mile warranty. I think once I get the money, I will get one.

Does it sound pretty good up in the high rpms?
 

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I really have no idea what you mean about the JR trick switch relay.

I'd say start out with 6 PSI, learn to love it, and learn to drive it, and then skip over 8 and go to 10 PSI. That's what I'm planning on doing, and I think that will be more worth it. Don't buy the JR upgrade pack because they'll only give you an 8 PSI pulley and some other things you may or may not want but could buy seperately for cheaper. Instead, when you're ready to go to 10 PSI, contact [email protected]

For daily driveability that isn't hard on your car, you really can't go wrong with the JRSC. I haven't had any problems with the SC yet, per se, however good tuning is the key to making it run reliably. I'd highly recommend getting it tuned on a wideband o2 sensored dyno. When I say per se, the blower works fine all the time... the only problem I've had as of late is getting an AEM fuel rail to connect to an AEM adjustable FPR within the limited confines of it's mounting spot on the JR manifold. That's AEMs problem, not JRs tho. Other then that, mine does run a bit rich, which would hurt your overall performance a bit (not a lot), but I'd rather be running rich then running lean and blowing my motor. Hence why dyno tuning should be something you plan into your finances.

Up in the high RPMs you get people to really notice you... all they hear is the whine of an SC (sounds like a high powered electric drill). One thing I love about my car is during the winter all you can tell that my car is modified at all is the exhaust, and if you look into the windows while it's running, you might see the boost gauge and/or the lights on the air/fuel gauge. During the summer I run some 17" rims so that is the only other thing that gives my car away, otherwise it looks like a total sleeper... people don't expect a little Civic EX to go blasting away from the light leaving them in a cloud of black smoke, nor do they expect to lose, but you'll find that you surprise quite a few cars out there who don't know what you have until you step on the gas and let the SC do it's thing.
 

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its extremely reliable and the sound is incredible! My friend in his turbo miata had just finished installing an intercooler on it and wasn't sure that it would run right. (it was having problems and he had recently rebuilt the motor) So, I took my car to tail him... first I must say that his car is FAST! I was trailing, so I wasn't on his ass to start with, but I couldnt pull on him! Kept up fine... I was a good couple car lengths behind cuz he took off after a stop sign. (i had to stop at the stop sign so I was a bit behind) Now to the sound part, he told me he could hear my supercharger screaming over his loud exhaust and turbo and he was a good 5 car lengths ahead. As far as reliability, my car is extremely reliable. Just bolt on the stock kit and I been fine for the past 2/3 years. I have no guages or anything! Just the stock kit with a few other things. Turbo's are a lil more high pressure and isnt exactly the most reliable thing, which was why I had to follow just in case his car broke down after the intercooler install. Only down side is the power gains. Not enough for me... ran a 13.9 before, but its still not 12's like I wanted and almost got. (damn smog laws)
 

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That's a kewl story. Mine is: everytime I drive up to my girlfriends work getting off the higway there is a big overpass that you turn left under, and I always gun it hard under there... with the windows down during the summer, you hear that for a LONG way! Every car around you is just about stunned. They expect to see a Jaguar or Mercedes under the bridge, but no, it's just you in your little honda. :D The amazed stares make me laugh every time.
 

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hmm, I still have no idea what that guy is talking about concerning the trick switch relay.

The boost gauge also reads vacuum. So when you're just cruising around, it will read vacuum, and when you get on the throttle, the needle switches over towards the left and reads boost. I've got a kewl black one from Autometer now, and I could sell you my white faced Jackson Racing boost gauge for cheap if you're interested. It's got all the parts and instruction manual, etc, and I'd let it go for $35... The only thing it doesn't have is a green light filter, but it still has a red one.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
What is vacuum?

Is there anything wrong with it? Do I have to drill anything to install it? What does the green/red light filter do? How did you mount it?
 

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they have pods that you can mount on your a pillar (between your side window and windshield. I have one that mounts two gauges on the side of my stock gauge cluster that I got at www.civicsuperstore.com. I think tsunami made it, but I also think that autometer has one out now that is the same thing. You shouldn't have to drill any holes, just run some vacuum tubing from the engine to the gauge inside. You can always have your local shop do this for you too. Vacuum is when you're out of boost, and your engine acts as sort of a vacuum on its own to suck air in. Boost is where you're actually forcing the air in. The red and green filters filter the light so that their output is either red or green... it helps to sort of replicate your current gauges. So if your interior gauges are green like mine are, you can use the green filter, and vice versa for the red. Otherwise the light output is just a normal incadescent colored whitish/yellowish light.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I cant find any non cheap pillar ones. I wanted one that was would replace the whole pillar piece and look good, not something that like snaps or glues onto it. If I got it, I would probably get a dual,because, I think single would look goofy. What other gauge would be useful to me?

Why did you choose the side mount ones instead of the pillar style?


Thanks
 
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