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Hi everyone - I'm new to posting here but I've browsed now and then for the past year. I was thinking about doing some work on my car this summer since I've got some time and money to spare on it, but I'm 19 and I've never really done any major car stuff at all, so I'm wondering if anyone can help me out with some advice or suggestions.

Last year I didn't really want to do anything to this because it's a DX with a y7 engine that puts out a whopping 106 HP - didn't really seems worth it. However, since it looks like I'm going to have this car for a while, I feel like I might as well just work on it, and since I really want to learn my way around cars, I've got to start somewhere.

This is it now:





There's some irritating damage on the back bumper and in particular there's a dent on the back of the trunk that I can't seem to pop out at all


The only thing I've done to this car so far has been to remove the stock intake and put that cheap short ram on



The muffler cracked yesterday - my mufflers for these cars seem to die pretty regularly (once to twice/year) - would it be worth it to replace with aftermarket?



These rims were what came with the car, but they've got all of that bad deterioration on the chrome, and were kind of rough to ride on with stock shocks and springs - I have a feeling that they were kind of raping the suspension when the previous owner drove it. I was thinking of putting them back on though, just because the car handles WAY better with them - do you think it would work if I sanded off all of the shit on the chrome and painted the rims some other color, or would that just be too much rice?




So really, it boils down to a few questions:

- Is this car even worth putting any money into, as it's a DX with 88,000 miles on it?

- Are those low profile rims going to be really horrible for the suspension if I put them back on, and would it be super cheesy if I tried to paint them black (or maybe red, haha) or something?

- do you think that I, with my limited mechanical experience, could replace the muffler with an aftermarket one successfully? it looks like it just bolts on to the exhaust manifold, so I can't imagine it'd be super-tough, and if you think I can do it, do you have any reccommendations on a decent looking performance muffler that doesn't cost a shitload of money?

- I'm looking to speed up this car a bit, and I'm willing to spend up to around $2500ish to make that happen - what can I do to increase horsepower and how should I do it to do it right?



Thanks in advance! :byye
 

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You should go with an LS or B20 swap. The whole swap can cost anywhere from 500-800 and since your not very car smart you can have a shop put it in for you for around $500 or less. The LS puts out as much power as a B16 and B18 amount of torque. At the most it look's like your spending $1200 which leaves $1200 more for you to invest in mild mods like Intake,Exhaust,Suspension components,Interior. whatever you's like.

If your sticking with a Dseries you can do a minime set up with boost?? but your lack of skill will limit your goals. The rims look fake crome, paint them black. What's rice are those tail lights. The car has potential,so you should be doing alot of research.
 

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try looking into a y8 mini me swap, with a y8 head gasket. a head swap isnt too entirely complicated you just need the y8 ecu, head, headstuds and the gasket i think. If you can do it from an a6 to an y8 head, i ASSUME a head of the same generation will fit fine, but you need to convert to a vtec ecu
 

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If you want to have some fun with it before you swap it, I suggest getting an Apexi World Sport 2 catback exhaust and at least some Tein springs to drop your car a bit and make it look nicer. Also some 99-00 tail lights wouldn't be bad, euros have died out a few years ago. Also go to a shop and ask them how much they would charge you to put a B18B2 in your car.

You can do a whole lot, it all depends on money, I've got a 98 Dx hatch and I spent almost $5 grand on my motor. I put a B18C type r and I love it. Nothing like walking on Mustang GTs down the road :p Either way, good luck with your car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Since I have to replace the muffler anyway, I was thinking about replacing with an aftermarket megan one to start with ( not the whole exhaust, just the muffler ). If I just got a megan muffler, would it bolt on to my stock exhaust manifold alright?

As far as what I'm going to do with the engine in the future, I'm thinking that a swap with a B-series might make more sense at this point, since adding a y8 head would be troublesome and almost as expensive, and turboing it would stress it a lot more. Question about engine swaps though - if I swap the engine, wouldn't I also almost have to swap the transmission along with it?
 

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Chinese Acrobat said:
You should go with an LS or B20 swap. The whole swap can cost anywhere from 500-800 and since your not very car smart you can have a shop put it in for you for around $500 or less. The LS puts out as much power as a B16 and B18 amount of torque. At the most it look's like your spending $1200 which leaves $1200 more for you to invest in mild mods like Intake,Exhaust,Suspension components,Interior. whatever you's like.

If your sticking with a Dseries you can do a minime set up with boost?? but your lack of skill will limit your goals. The rims look fake crome, paint them black. What's rice are those tail lights. The car has potential,so you should be doing alot of research.

wtf are you talking about? b16s have WAY more power than LS. the motor/trans+mounts=2200 on hmotors, then -atleast- a grand for any decent shop to swap it. maybe if you get joe ray down the block to swap it for you then yeah, have fun with your engine falling out. the ls IS a b18, so obviously its going to have b18 torque.

the first thing i'd invest in are stock tail lights. perfromance wise, boosting would be the best on that budget. and you will be about equal to b16s, if not mildly quicker. if he has no mechanical experience then i doubt he can do a mini me swap. but that would also be one of the first things i'd suggest to net about 25hp.

IMO just buy a stock replacement for your muffler. mufflers dont make horsepower. they make noise, rather theyre supposed to 'muffle' noise. if youre buying used ones, dont expect old ass mufflers to keep cracking on you. and a header/exhaust manifold are the 4 pipes that come directly out of your engine, nothing near your muffler. and mufflers dont bolt on, they weld on. so i dont suggest trying to replace one yourself unless you have welder+experience. if i were you i wouldnt waste time on a d15, just keep it, drive it, save your money. suspension mods will make you feel fast as shit through the curves. ;)

and what the fuck is a b18b2?
 

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ksniperfox said:
wtf are you talking about? b16s have WAY more power than LS. the motor/trans+mounts=2200 on hmotors, then -atleast- a grand for any decent shop to swap it. maybe if you get joe ray down the block to swap it for you then yeah, have fun with your engine falling out. the ls IS a b18, so obviously its going to have b18 torque.

the first thing i'd invest in are stock tail lights. perfromance wise, boosting would be the best on that budget. and you will be about equal to b16s, if not mildly quicker. if he has no mechanical experience then i doubt he can do a mini me swap. but that would also be one of the first things i'd suggest to net about 25hp.

IMO just buy a stock replacement for your muffler. mufflers dont make horsepower. they make noise, rather theyre supposed to 'muffle' noise. if youre buying used ones, dont expect old ass mufflers to keep cracking on you. and a header/exhaust manifold are the 4 pipes that come directly out of your engine, nothing near your muffler. and mufflers dont bolt on, they weld on. so i dont suggest trying to replace one yourself unless you have welder+experience. if i were you i wouldnt waste time on a d15, just keep it, drive it, save your money. suspension mods will make you feel fast as shit through the curves. ;)

and what the fuck is a b18b2?

OK, we have 2 identical Greddy Turbo kits, 1 on the LS 1, on the B16...Which one would rape the other due to it's plentiful amount of low end torque?

B18B2 is test question to see if the shop know's their shit.
 

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i suggest learning a thing or two about the way an engine works, then starting to do mods yourself. start by getting a y8 intake manifold, and either a ex/si transmission from a 5th gen civic or an ex transmission from a 6th gen civic. you can do both these for low-cost, and they are an easy mod to do for beginners. just get a helms manual and a few tools and you'll be set.

the transmission will make you car way more fun to drive than any other mod you could do right now short of an engine swap.

*shameless plug* i have a d16y8 transmission for sale for about 250 shipped.
 

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Chinese Acrobat said:
OK, we have 2 identical Greddy Turbo kits, 1 on the LS 1, on the B16...Which one would rape the other due to it's plentiful amount of low end torque?
.
the b16 derrrrrrrrrrrr plus the rods are stronger allowing for more boost+better flowing head=more power on lower boost
 

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boosted B16>boosted b18b(no 2 ass hat the generation isnt signified on the b18s :wow )

the LS tranny is a freaking lake bed tranny compard to the b16's, in the corter with both engines in the same car, the b16 on boost would take the b18b.

yes the 1.8 makes more tq(duh bigger engine) but as stated before the b16 has better head and tranny.

as far as not having experience, get a helms and dig in my friend!! how the hell do you thing everyone else has learned? its a great thing you have the D engine too since they are ceaper to work on.
 

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I still vote for a turbo Y8

btw... if nothing else, swap your excuse for an intake manifold. Toss on a y8 or Z6 intake manifold and you'll pick up twice the power you got from that intake, and it would be pretty cheap too. Go to a junkyard and yank an intake mani off a EX trim level ek.
 

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I say screw doing a Y8 swap and boosting. The Y7 is a fine engine also and with a turbo setup, intake manifold, cam, and supporting mods will make as much power as the Y8. I suggest spending a lil extra for the Edlebrock Turbo Kit as it comes with everything and also includes a Performer X intake manifold.

To the guy that said a LS and B20 swap is only $900 ha keep dreaming. By the time you buy the transmission, ecu, and axels you need to add around atleast $600 on to that but then you need to change stuff like timing belt, water pump, do compression and leak down test to ensure the engine you got is ok.

Also to the other guy that said the B16 has stronger rods than a B18, you are wrong too. The (LS)B18B-not B18B2 is one of the best B series engines to boost in stock form as they on average make more tq than all the others because of their longer stroke. The B18B's traqnsmission is fine also, true it is geared higher than say a B16's or B18C's but all in all it is not bad, it shares about the same gearing as a Y8 transmission which is very sought after in sohc land.

My opinion on the matter is this. The first mod you need to do is a 96-00 civic ex 5 spedd transmission swap, shorter gears than what you have and $ for $ the best bang for the buck. After that I would open the engines air ways buy getting a good header, hi flo cat, and a cat back. If you plan on boosting do not by a cold air intake as it is waisted money but if you dont plan on boosting just buy a K&N replacement filter for your stock air box and cut the bottom out of the stock air box.

After that I would honestly move on to suspension, a nice suspension setup will and does bring a car to life. I recomend a set of Tein S-Tech's and some KYB struts. Then a nice upper and lower strut bar, then a rear tie bar set. Get some Rota's or keep your stock wheels as it is personnal prefference on this but get some sticky tires on what ever you get. Try to stay with a 15 or 16 inch rim but if you must have 17's go with something light.

I am not jumping on anyone but you guys need to think a lil about giving advice sometimes as to not give people the wrong info. Nothing sucks more than to be told something, try to do it, and then find out it was mis-information.
 

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^^ :nod

also, the b18's generation (at least in non-vtec world) is signified as b18A1 (pre-'95) and b18B1 ('95-'01)

also, visually the b18b1's made in 95-96 look similiar to the b18a1's in that the valve cover looks... wierd. not quite sure how to explain it or what to call them, but there's ?ridges? on it.

also, just to throw this out there, my b18b swap i'm doing right now is costing right around $2000.
 

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what's with the stupid arguments about which motor's better boosted? WTF? Of course the B18B will be better with just some minor work low 13s no problem. But the best thing to do is to buy a complete Y8 head + intake manifold and use Y7 block and tranny. The Y7 block is stronger and holds more boost, also the tranny has really nice and long gears that love boost.
 

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JDM_Honda said:
what's with the stupid arguments about which motor's better boosted? WTF? Of course the B18B will be better with just some minor work low 13s no problem. But the best thing to do is to buy a complete Y8 head + intake manifold and use Y7 block and tranny. The Y7 block is stronger and holds more boost, also the tranny has really nice and long gears that love boost.
y7 and y8 bottom end is EXACLTY the same in every way. and y8 tranny is basicly the same as an LS so no the y7 tranny isnt good for boost lol.

rep for the stupid argument idea :). I would vote against the whole head swap tho, the y7 head is fine for boost just the IM is SHIT on a y7
 

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The Y7 and Y8 blocks are the exact same, also the Y7's transmission is geared far to long for any kind of performance needs and I mean any kind unless you are gunning for a top speed record. With the Y7's tranny you need to be trapping over 100mph to need to switch to 4th which means that when boosted even if you redline the hell out of it you are going to fall out of the optimum rpm range for your turbo to be spooled and ready to go.

The Y8 head is not needed in the grand scheme of things though, with mild port work and a custom grind cam from delta the Y7 head is able to make the power of the Y8 head.
 

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I have just been told that the B16 rods are thicker and "stouter", that is my mistake and I would like to say I am sorry for giving out the wrong info
 

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96civic3door said:
I have just been told that the B16 rods are thicker and "stouter", that is my mistake and I would like to say I am sorry for giving out the wrong info
yup and even moreso are the rod bolts. ;)
 
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