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Does anyone know the size of the throttle body for the stock 2001 ITR? I'm putting in more aggressive cams this winter and it was suggested that I put in a larger aftermarket throttle body. Is it necessary to put in a throttle body of a larger size? I was told to go with an aftermarket size of about 70 millimeters. I was also planning on porting and polishing the heads and putting in an aftermarket intake manifold. Right now the only mod on my car is I/H/E. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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62mm

what cams

who suggested this

who is going to do the tuning

who is going to do the p&p and why

what I/H&E do you have

do you run a high flow cat or a test pipe
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Here's what I have so far.

The cams that I'm thinking of going with are the Stage 3 Crane Cams with titanium retainers and springs. There is a performance shop where I live that specializes in the tuning of engines complete with a dyno and all of the software required. He usually works on Supras but when I spoke with him he was familliar with my vehicle. Another shop that specializes in the rebuilding of engines is going to perform the port and polishing side of it. Many of the people I have spoken with who have had this type of work done have noticed significant gains on the dyno. Right now I have an AEM cold air intake and a stainless steel header from Vibrant (4 into 1) that goes to a 2.5 inch collector. The exhaust is made up of 2 resonators and a muffler. These components are connected by 2.5 inch piping all the way troughout. Hopefully this gives a better understanding of what I'm referring to. Thanks.
 

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JO R said:
So is it necessary to go with a throttle body of a larger size?
No.
 

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Think about things to tune it all with like cam gears, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, something like the VAFC or a standalone programmable ECU.

You also don't need the P&P. But, if the people who are doing the job really know what they are doing (and not just providing kickbacks to your tuning shop) it isn't the worst idea. Just remember that Too much P&P can actually hurt performance.

If you already don't have a High Flow cat or test pipe, I'd suggest that instead of the P&P job.

Crane cams? This is for an ITR correct? Who got you turned on to Crane cams for a B18C5? Again, if they are suggested by the tuning shop, it sounds like they get deals on them, if you chose them you should keep doing your homework (in a nice way.) Toda's are the ones most known for reputible NA gains. But other people will suggest JUN, Skunk2, or even Spoon cams depending on just how asggressive you are looking and for what application.

I don't know of any guys with Tuned R's running Crane cams but, I also don't know what your end goal is, N/A -or- F/I?

Good luck, if I don't get back to you soon enough, I don't frequent this site as often as I used to. Ask ITR206 for more help, he's one of the few here with his head screwed on right.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I guess this is to be directed towards 1GreyTeg, ITR206 or anyone else with knowledge about this. I think the first thing I should clear up is that no, all of the parties involved (sales, port and polishing and tuning) are independent of one another.

Thank you for your input. Yes, these cams are for an ITR and a N/A engine is what I'm going for. After some reading it looks as though Toda cams seem to be the best suited towards a N/A application. I still however have a few others to look at.

I do have a few questions though. Why would it be recommended to put in a High Flow Cat or a Test Pipe? I was under the impression that the more free flowing the exhaust the better. If it is not necessary to put in a larger sized throttle body, would it be necessary to put in an after market intake manifold of a larger size? Also what are the advantages of going with Cam Gears, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator or the VAFC versus getting the tuning done at a shop? Besides the obvious advantage of being able to do it yourself. Thanks.
 

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JO R said:
I guess this is to be directed towards 1GreyTeg, ITR206 or anyone else with knowledge about this. I think the first thing I should clear up is that no, all of the parties involved (sales, port and polishing and tuning) are independent of one another.

Thank you for your input. Yes, these cams are for an ITR and a N/A engine is what I'm going for. After some reading it looks as though Toda cams seem to be the best suited towards a N/A application. I still however have a few others to look at.

I do have a few questions though. Why would it be recommended to put in a High Flow Cat or a Test Pipe? I was under the impression that the more free flowing the exhaust the better. If it is not necessary to put in a larger sized throttle body, would it be necessary to put in an after market intake manifold of a larger size? Also what are the advantages of going with Cam Gears, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator or the VAFC versus getting the tuning done at a shop? Besides the obvious advantage of being able to do it yourself. Thanks.
Toda is a good chioce, but there are others out there, and the cam you chose really depends what you plan to do with your car and where you want the power to be.

High flow cats, only have about 1-2hp differnce then a test pipe, sometimes less, but hi-flow cats are much better on the enviorment and some people say they do not cause the raspy sound that test pipes sometime cause...

I agree with 1greyteg, no need for bigger TB...

As for a bigger manifold, not really unless you have a huge n/a application to go with it...tuned properly, you could see some minimal gains, depending on your motor set up...if you plan on stock bore and some toba b's, then i do not think you would gain much from a new intake manifold...if you feel you need one, then i would only suggest AEBS, intake manifold...and you will see most of the gains of the intake manifold up top(in most cases), some mid, but more up top...

With lumpy cams, your overlap needs to be adjusted, this is what cam gears do...with lumpy as cams, like todas, it is an absolute must to get cam gears to use with them, or you will more then likely lose more power then you had to begin with, or stay at the same level.

Fuel pressure regulator, will allow a better burn, which will create and promote better combustion

Either way, to have your car tuned anywhere you need some type of tuning software or device, that allows the chaging of your motor's computer settings...i think why 1greyteg suggested the vafc, because it does well and will help you dail in lumpy cams for a decent price...anyother program starts to get expensive...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the input, I appreciate it. I've actually been doing a lot of reading and it's looks as though it's a toss up between Toda and Skunk2. In any case as far as the tuning goes, what are your thoughts on Hondata versus Vafc? I haven't been able to find much information on Vafc so any input would be great. Thanks.
 

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Have you thought about Rocket cams?

Vafc is cheaper, and will give yo uminimal resluts, but hondata will give you so much to tune and so many options that you will achieve more HP and a better running motor....
 

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I went from 62mm to 68mm TB on my ITR engine and gained 10whp, I also portmatched it to my manifold. When I dynoed my car I saw only 5hp but I was running lean, when I increased the FP I got the another 5hp. My engine is not stock though. I have Jun stage 3 cams, Jun cam gears, Eagle rods, P&P head, Real Jun ECU, 85mm bore, Arias 12:1 compression pistons, 330cc injectors, Crane ignition, AEM CIA, DC sports JDM spec. header, 2.5" exhaust no cat, VAFC, SS Valves, 68mm Holley TB, and Magnacor wires. Dynoed 243whp 157tq I have some car and engine pics.
 

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V8KILLR said:
I went from 62mm to 68mm TB on my ITR engine and gained 10whp, I also portmatched it to my manifold. When I dynoed my car I saw only 5hp but I was running lean, when I increased the FP I got the another 5hp. My engine is not stock though. I have Jun stage 3 cams, Jun cam gears, Eagle rods, P&P head, Real Jun ECU, 85mm bore, Arias 12:1 compression pistons, 330cc injectors, Crane ignition, AEM CIA, DC sports JDM spec. header, 2.5" exhaust no cat, VAFC, SS Valves, 68mm Holley TB, and Magnacor wires. Dynoed 243whp 157tq I have some car and engine pics.
Yes that is why you gained HP from the throttle body..so why are you even posting this? you have an 85mm bore with 12:1CR and cams that need air, like they were a small puppy drowing...I see your point that it could help, but we already said that unless he has a mass N/A build he will not see many gains from it...

But your post goes to show, that on your set up(as crazy as it is), only gained 10whp with tuning...So somebody wanting to simply upgrade on a mild N/A set up would not see any real gain, especailly with out tuning...Plus you may have been able to gain that extra 5hp...from higher FP, and not the manifold.
 

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300whp said:
FYI-your motor only has one head!
WOW!

I mean REALLY WOW! That comment of yours helped out so very much.

Care to share any other insightful information?
 
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