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Timesert is a kit that's used to repair stripped threads, mainly headstud threads in the block, but also smaller threads. There are a few walkthroughs out there but a lot of them are older and don't have any pictures. Anyways, I thought it'd be nice to make just one more walkthrough after completing the procedure just for some extra reference for anyone who is looking to do this yourself.

Here is a link to the Timesert website: http://www.timesert.com/

After completing the installation, I must say that Timesert was very impressive and easy to use. it's basically failure-free as long as you follow the directions. The instructions recommend professional installation but if you can use a drill and have all the tools, you're good to go. Timesert is a thousand times better than Helicoil as you will see in this walkthrough

The kit itself is very expensive, retailing at over $300. I ordered one used off eBay, it was missing some of the actual Timesert inserts but I only needed 1 anyways as I just had one stripped thread. I plan on selling the kit after I'm done with it. The individual inserts can be ordered for cheaper though, the main thing that makes the kit expensive is the custom-made drill bits and drivers.

Tools Needed
1 Timesert Kit
Can of Dust-Off (Very Useful) or compressed air
WD-40
Duct Tape
Flashlight
thin cloth/rag and tool to clean out hole
1/2" Drill

Here is a picture of the Kit with labels:


Step 1:
Obviously you'll need to have the head removed for this procedure. My engine was already out of the car so this was not a problem. Duct Tape the cylinders and entire top of the block so as to prevent metal shavings from getting in there. Here's the block mid-Duct Taping



Step 2:
Clean out all debris from the hole with Dust-Off or compressed air. Hard to get a picture but here's a before shot of the hole:


Mmmmm, metal gunk:



Step 3:
Take the Drill Fixture Plate (big square plate in the picture) and place the largest hole in the plate over the hole in the block to be repaired. Place the drill bushing in the fixture, then insert the Line Pin to make sure the hole is centered (much like aligning a clutch). Then insert the 3 bolts that came with the kit into the other 3 holes of the drill fixture and tighten. (Note: The 3 bolts that came with my kit weren't long enough for some reason so I had to use 3 main bolts from my other engine...as long as it's securely in place)

Here's a picture of the Drill Fixture in place with the Drill Bushing and Line Pin inserted to get the hole centered:



Step 4:
***Important: Since B16 and B18 engines have different lengths of headbolts, you will need the B16 spacer to drill out the hole in a B16. My kit did not come with the B16 spacer but I was repairing a B18C so it did not matter.***

Remove the Line Pin but keep the Drill bushing in at all times while drilling. Using a 1/2" Drill with the custom bit (I had drill on lowest speed and highest torque), step drill the hole until the stop collar (black ring fixture around the top of the drill bit) hits the top of the drill bushing. You will need to use an "in and out" motion and go slowly with the drill, stopping frequently to clear out the chips.

When you stop to clear out the chips, remove the drill and drill bushing, blow compressed air (Dust-Off or air nozzle from compressor) into the hole.

Turns out there was a [email protected]#$cked up Helicoil in the thread which caused all the problems in the first place. :bash Here is a prime example why Timesert > Helicoil:



Continue drilling until the stop collar hit the top of the bushing (or the B16 spacer if you're repairing a B16 block).


Here's how the hole should look after this step. Notice how the custom drill bit creates that top shelf to seat the insert:



Step 5:
Get the hole clean of all metal chips and fit the Tap on the Drill. Spray WD-40 on the tap itself and inside the hole for lubrication. (Again, the B16 blocks have smaller holes so you'll have to go to the first line on the tap). With the Drill Bushing still on there, drill the Tap until the groove on the Tap bit lines up the with the top of the Drill Bushing. Then reverse the Tap out, clear shavings, and Tap it 3-5 more times, keeping the Tap and hole lubricated with WD-40. (I only tapped it once and tried to put the insert in but it wouldn't grab. I though I had screwed it up (pun unintended..for the most part) but I just needed to tap it more.

Picture of the Tap:


And the brand new threads :D :



Step 6:
Clean the hole thoroughly of all chips and WD-40. Use compressed air for the chips and a thin rag and long, thin metal/wooden/plastic rod to stick down there to soak up the excess WD-40.



Step 7:
Remove the Drill Fixture for the next step.

Step 8:
With the hole completely clean (no chips or oil), now it's time to get the insert and driver ready. Put the Driver into the Drill and apply the Driver Oil generously. Next, screw on one of the inserts and apply a small amount of Loctite on the bottom half of the insert. (just the bottom because when it's screwed in, the threads will push the Loctite up to the top.) Should look like this:


Then slowly screw the Driver into the hole. It will tighten up when the Timsert iinsert is in place. When this happens, use a little more power to screw the Driver through the insert until the groove of the driver lines up with the top of the block Then switch the drill to loosen and reverse the tap out. The insert should stay in there.

And here's the finished product, seated securely and stronger than OEM:


I don't know exactly how long but I'd wait at least 12 hours for the Loctite to dry before reinstalling the headstuds. Other than that, you're good to go. Hope this review was helpful.
 
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