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Hy guys. I'm Alex, from Romania(Europe), the land of vampires(don't believe that s**t, it's only a trick to make tourists visit the country). I recently acquired a 2004 Civic Type-R model(which I know it's not imported in the US), it's supose to arrive in late March from Japan. It has a 2.0 liter 200hp i-VTEC engine(if I'm not mistaking, same with the RSX).
I was wondering if you can give me some tips to make it faster without installing a turbocharger(it's extremely expensive and difficult here). I know about the cold air intake, cat-back exhaust, re-writing the soft, pushing the rev limiter up to 8,500 rpm, pullyes, light flywheel and...that's about it. All that is supposed to give me some extra 50hp(more???).
Are there any other tips or tricks that you can tell me? I'm sorry if this has been allready discused somewhere else, here.
Thanks.
 

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There is a package deal from Toda that you should buy. It includes computer, cams, valvesprings, retainers, header, and some other things I forget but its proven and guaranteed to put down 300 WHP all motor on the rsx-s motor. It was featured in a recent Honda Tuning Magazine article. I cant find it laying around or I'd give you which issue. mabe toda has a website you can check out I'm to lazy to search myself.
 

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shaolin_style said:
There is a package deal from Toda that you should buy. It includes computer, cams, valvesprings, retainers, header, and some other things I forget but its proven and guaranteed to put down 300 WHP all motor on the rsx-s motor. It was featured in a recent Honda Tuning Magazine article. I cant find it laying around or I'd give you which issue. mabe toda has a website you can check out I'm to lazy to search myself.
Never heard of such a thing. I have heard of a Toda package that bumped it up to near 275 ENGINE hp (230ish WHP), but 300 WHP (up from ~170 stock) is an rediculous step up for zero head/bottom end work. You won't be very likely to get a 130 WHP increase with the wildest cam ever + all bolt-ons/valvetrain upgrades on an LS1, so on a little K20 I would think it's VERY MUCH impossible.
 

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I never said without head or bottom end work so dont put words up I never said...I did say "and other things I dont remember" which just might include the previous. I'm just sharing what I read from a reputable mag that probably wouldnt have an article on something thats not true. I know there is such a thing and if you dont I'm fine knowing I'm right and helped a guy out.
 

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10xz a lot for the tips. ;) I heard something about the Toda package, but here it will be quite difficult to find a tuning store that imports it. Here, the market is "infected" with parts for german turbos and turbo diesels(hate them!), one friend of mine with a Type-R found it a bit difficult to import some Tein suspension package and Hayame cat-back(btw, what do you think about these?). Anyways, I'll try to purchase it(the package). When is it best for the engine to upgrade it, I mean mileage, no of miles, 5000-6000? More? I heard I have to make some miles before I upgrade it, unless I want to do more damage than good.
 

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Thats 230 at the wheels right there with no head porting or pistons. Get some pistons, test pipe, and head porting and you should be up to 300 like the one in the mag. I tried but i seriously cant find that damn mag! Good luck with your setup! As for as how long to wait before working on it I'd wait at least 5000 miles to make sure that everything is broken in and heat cycled.
 

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Sorry, but 300 WHP is not realistic. Even if it were attainable it would be complete hell to drive on the street, it would get 10-12 mpg, and would likely not run on pump gas.

The TODA kit listed is your best bet for getting high horsepower from an NA K20. It's not cheap (> $2300 for cams, valvesprings, and a NON-DYNO tuning?!?!?!), but it is when compared to the $7000 + you'll be spending to try and get anywhere near 300 WHP on a little K20. Hytech has a kit that includes:
Billet Connecting rods
Custom Wiseco Pistons with pins and rings
Chevy IRL valve springs and Ti retainers
8620 billet roller cams
New intake mainfold
Stainless racing header and 3 inch exhaust
Ported cylinder head with new stainelss valves
Custom intake with filter
Reflashed ECU.

All this runs $7500 and will make 280 WHP. It replaces/modifies just about everything but the block and crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
10xz all for the info. That Toda kit sounds really nice. In fact, I'm able to throw about 3000$ or a little more on engine and some 1000-1500$ on the suspension(btw, I'll need brakes, bigger brake callipers??), but 7000 is too much for me now. I dont' want to change the rims, maybe better tyres, but after the engine. Can I get a 1/4 mile under 14secs with 3000$, let's say? Or, I'm not being realistic? 10xz again.
 

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Alexb81 said:
10xz all for the info. That Toda kit sounds really nice. In fact, I'm able to throw about 3000$ or a little more on engine and some 1000-1500$ on the suspension(btw, I'll need brakes, bigger brake callipers??), but 7000 is too much for me now. I dont' want to change the rims, maybe better tyres, but after the engine. Can I get a 1/4 mile under 14secs with 3000$, let's say? Or, I'm not being realistic? 10xz again.
Breaking 13's w/ $3k in mods on a K20 car should be no problem. The TODA kit listed above and drag radials alone should have you running some nice times (as long as the stock clutch holds out).
 
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