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great write-up !!
Troubleshooting Idle Problems
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i have a 98 ls integra. I am having the same problems that everyone is talking about in this thread. erratic idle, sometimes pegged at 2000-2500, sometimes fluctuating between 400-700. also, i have no part throttle. unless the pedal is at least 3/4 the way to the floor, it sputters really badly and is completely undriveable. then once i floor it it surges and powers out of it like it was bottlenecked. if i floor it the whole time it never hesitates. only with part throttle. i just took a look at the throttle body, and I do not have a fit valve. there are two open-ended pipes that are underneath the throttle body that have nothing hooked up to them, but i did not feel a vacuum on either one. (and while checking them i electrocuted myself somehow... dont know how... maybe on the distributer?...makes me wonder if there is a voltage issue) and looking inside the throttle body, there is only the one hole for the iacv. no hole for the fit. in the haynes manual for my car, it says the fitv is just to the right of the head breather. i dont see anything there. i disconnected the map sensor to see if there was a change, and the car immediately died, so i can assume that is fine. there is another sensor directly on top of the intake manifold that i'm not sure about. it is not labeled in the haynes, and it did not effect the idle at all when disconnected. and the car is throwing a system rich cel as well. my next step is to check the iacv. should my car have a fitv? i just swapped a b20b in, but the original b18b im is still on. i never had this problem before the new motor was installed this week, so it seems logical that they did something wrong in the install. whats the next step if the iacv is good?
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my prob
OK i just bought my 97 accord witha h22 swap in it. when i got the car the girli bought it from said that it had a prob with one of the injectors. the injectors are fine. when i started the car i had to keep giving it gas to keep it running. but once it warmed up it ran fine for i lil bit. the other day my car would start and then it would rev ral high and go back down. I looked on my IM and there was some kind of sensor that was lose and sucking air. I bolted it back on and it fied the rev prob but now I start it and it wants to die and some times it idels fine. then i give it gas and it wants to die and then picks right bac up. what could it be
OK i just bought my 97 accord witha h22 swap in it. when i got the car the girli bought it from said that it had a prob with one of the injectors. the injectors are fine. when i started the car i had to keep giving it gas to keep it running. but once it warmed up it ran fine for i lil bit. the other day my car would start and then it would rev ral high and go back down. I looked on my IM and there was some kind of sensor that was lose and sucking air. I bolted it back on and it fied the rev prob but now I start it and it wants to die and some times it idels fine. then i give it gas and it wants to die and then picks right bac up. what could it be
Clean throttle body/intake manifold, see where that gets you.
Howdy,
I have a 1994 Honda Civic EX with a D15B VTEC engine and it lopes when it idles and when I put my hand over the throttle body it doesn't stall, it just keeps running so I think it has a vacuum leak somewhere but I just can't find it and it sucks ALOT of air through the IACV hole but I have changed the IACV but it still does it. It even does it when he IACV is disconnected but not as bad. I can't take it to a dealer cause it would be a fortune to fix it.Can anybody please help me? It gets tiresome sitting at a complete stop pulling out and it jumping all over the place!!!! Thank You here is a pic of my Honda.
I have a 1994 Honda Civic EX with a D15B VTEC engine and it lopes when it idles and when I put my hand over the throttle body it doesn't stall, it just keeps running so I think it has a vacuum leak somewhere but I just can't find it and it sucks ALOT of air through the IACV hole but I have changed the IACV but it still does it. It even does it when he IACV is disconnected but not as bad. I can't take it to a dealer cause it would be a fortune to fix it.Can anybody please help me? It gets tiresome sitting at a complete stop pulling out and it jumping all over the place!!!! Thank You here is a pic of my Honda.
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Idle Question
So I went through the steps here this weekend, FITV is definitely not getting out of the way and results in a jumping idle from 900-1600 or so and sucks the entire time.
So I know my one problem, and am waiting on getting a new FITV valve, thanks for the excellent write up.
My second problem is that the car has taken to just randomly dieing as you are driving down the road. No check engine light has come on. It has died when running at 3000 RPM and at 4000RPM. Sometimes it restarts on compression other times I have to wait 5 minutes then the thing starts fine. Are my problems related, or thoughts, theories, wild guesses? :bash
All help much appreciated.
1991 Acura Integra - 4 door commuter POS
So I went through the steps here this weekend, FITV is definitely not getting out of the way and results in a jumping idle from 900-1600 or so and sucks the entire time.
So I know my one problem, and am waiting on getting a new FITV valve, thanks for the excellent write up.
My second problem is that the car has taken to just randomly dieing as you are driving down the road. No check engine light has come on. It has died when running at 3000 RPM and at 4000RPM. Sometimes it restarts on compression other times I have to wait 5 minutes then the thing starts fine. Are my problems related, or thoughts, theories, wild guesses? :bash
All help much appreciated.
1991 Acura Integra - 4 door commuter POS
IAVC or FIV
I believe the IAVC and the FIV holes inside of the throttle body are different on 89 Accord which is what I’m working on. When I apply my finger on the top hole, vacuum pulls through the FIV. I need help from someone to confirm that this is correct on the 89 Accord. This parts cost to much money for me to just take guess. Thanks
I believe the IAVC and the FIV holes inside of the throttle body are different on 89 Accord which is what I’m working on. When I apply my finger on the top hole, vacuum pulls through the FIV. I need help from someone to confirm that this is correct on the 89 Accord. This parts cost to much money for me to just take guess. Thanks
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I never took the time to become very familiarized with the accord line of engines, so I do not have a good answer for the above questions, I apologize for that... However I can refer you to someone that knows; I suggest "female four", she has appeared to be very knowledgeable on the accord engines in the past, she should be able to help you.
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614 Posts
where is the idle screw located, if you had pics it would be alot more helpful but if not your words will be good enough
nice write up though
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It should be located on the TB and it will look like this:
Use thread lock when you are finished adjusting it...
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614 Posts
alright, when i unplugged the IACV it stated to make like heart beating noise, my idle was a 1500 rpm, while it was doing this the needle was moving a little, probably like in between the 1500 line and the 1600 line, maybe not even that much, but as i adjusted the idle screw it wouldn't go right at all, so as i turned it to the left the noise got louder( the heart started beating more) <thats the best way i can describe it.. so i turned it back to where it was when i started, plugged the iacv plug back in but now its doing the heart beating thing not very very bad but its doing it, I reset my ecu, and it stopped but the idle is stil 1500. After the car gets warmed up it doesn't stay at 1500 it will go to about 2000 then fall down to 1000 then back to 2000 then it will go to about 1500 and bobble between 1400 and 1700 and then it goes back to going from 1000 to 2000 again and it just continues to do that. Also my CEL is on throwing 9 code CYP: Cylinder Position Sensor, its inside the distributor, so i bought a brand new distributor from honda, well that didnt fix a thing. Im still getting the code for CYP sensor, and the idle is still crazy. and suggestions
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614 Posts
also i have check the suction on that one valve, there is very minimal suction, there is some but not alot at all defiantly alot less that from the IACV one, I have also cleaned the IACV screen, it was dirty when i took it off but I cleaned it and still nothing has changed
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2,086 Posts
Sounds like a timing issue... the very first thing you should've done before buying a new distributor is check the timing. Get a timing light and check to make sure the timing is right. Then this procedure does not work if you have CELs! (as stated at the beginning), must get rid of that problem first.
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My particular issue
Ok, I'm a newbie here. This seems like an incredible write up. Thank you kindly. I have been searching other forums and this is the first one that has touched on this in this amount of detail. So major kudos to you, sir!
I have a particular issue that has been going on with my 1993 Honda Civic DX for over a month now. Forgive the length of this post, but I want to be as accurate as possible.
My radiator had a crack in it and prior to being able to replace it, when the coolant level got low the idle of the car would rev up and down anytime the car was simply idling. I have a 5 speed manual transmission and anytime I would be in neutral or just have the clutch engaged for any amount of time the engine would rev up and down. I don't have a tach, but I am assuming it jumps up and down about 500-1000 rpms. Before replacing the radiator, I could simply add more coolant and the issue would go away. After a few times of this, even adding the coolant would not get rid of the revving up and down at idle. I did change the radiator, and bled the system with the bleeder screw, but the issue still remains. I have changed many parts on my car to try and fix this, but nothing has worked. I simply was following other advice from other forums. To date I have changed, other than the radiator, the thermostat, the fuel filter, the IACV, complete tuneup including wires, plugs, distributor cap, and PCV valve. I have also sprayed Starter Fluid on the vac lines and intake manifold to search for vac leaks, but the engine has responded the same. To be clear, when I sprayed looking for these leaks, I allowed the car to warm up to normal operating temp and simply sprayed the lines etc looking for the engine to rev differently. None of this has fixed the issue. Also of note, now when I crank my car up on cold mornings, it emits blue smoke. I have seen this before, but the other morning it was so thick I couldn't see past the blue smoke in my rear view mirror. I know blue smoke means oil is burning, but wanted to add this in just in case it might be tied into this idling issue.
Do you think my FITV could be the problem here? I am going to follow your steps to check, but wanted to post this in the hopes you or someone else might be able to shed any additional light on my particular issue. I did a search to see if I could buy a FITV for my car, but none of the sites seem to list a FITV for my 1993 Honda Civic. My particular engine is a 1.5L FI SOHC 16 valve. It has close to 178,000 miles on it and up until now has been relatively issue free. I love this car, but can't afford to take it to the dealer. Especially now knowing how much MORE they charge to work on your car. They quoted me $400 for the radiator replacement. I did it on my own, and including the rad, both new hoses, and coolant it cost me $118.
Thanks in advance for any help given. It's greatly appreciated.
Ok, I'm a newbie here. This seems like an incredible write up. Thank you kindly. I have been searching other forums and this is the first one that has touched on this in this amount of detail. So major kudos to you, sir!
I have a particular issue that has been going on with my 1993 Honda Civic DX for over a month now. Forgive the length of this post, but I want to be as accurate as possible.
My radiator had a crack in it and prior to being able to replace it, when the coolant level got low the idle of the car would rev up and down anytime the car was simply idling. I have a 5 speed manual transmission and anytime I would be in neutral or just have the clutch engaged for any amount of time the engine would rev up and down. I don't have a tach, but I am assuming it jumps up and down about 500-1000 rpms. Before replacing the radiator, I could simply add more coolant and the issue would go away. After a few times of this, even adding the coolant would not get rid of the revving up and down at idle. I did change the radiator, and bled the system with the bleeder screw, but the issue still remains. I have changed many parts on my car to try and fix this, but nothing has worked. I simply was following other advice from other forums. To date I have changed, other than the radiator, the thermostat, the fuel filter, the IACV, complete tuneup including wires, plugs, distributor cap, and PCV valve. I have also sprayed Starter Fluid on the vac lines and intake manifold to search for vac leaks, but the engine has responded the same. To be clear, when I sprayed looking for these leaks, I allowed the car to warm up to normal operating temp and simply sprayed the lines etc looking for the engine to rev differently. None of this has fixed the issue. Also of note, now when I crank my car up on cold mornings, it emits blue smoke. I have seen this before, but the other morning it was so thick I couldn't see past the blue smoke in my rear view mirror. I know blue smoke means oil is burning, but wanted to add this in just in case it might be tied into this idling issue.
Do you think my FITV could be the problem here? I am going to follow your steps to check, but wanted to post this in the hopes you or someone else might be able to shed any additional light on my particular issue. I did a search to see if I could buy a FITV for my car, but none of the sites seem to list a FITV for my 1993 Honda Civic. My particular engine is a 1.5L FI SOHC 16 valve. It has close to 178,000 miles on it and up until now has been relatively issue free. I love this car, but can't afford to take it to the dealer. Especially now knowing how much MORE they charge to work on your car. They quoted me $400 for the radiator replacement. I did it on my own, and including the rad, both new hoses, and coolant it cost me $118.
Thanks in advance for any help given. It's greatly appreciated.
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