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Discussion Starter #1
Here the Question,
Of does of you using GSR CAMS what is your HP Peak (DYNO)

for the other one
which of you are using Aftermarket CAMS
such as
Ie.
Skunk2, Crower, Web etc........ what numbers are you guys Showing HP Peak (DYNO)

what are the PRO/CONS Between

Skunk2 Turbo cams ans GSR cams ?

ANY EXPERTS OUT THERE
 

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I've only ran 1 set of cams in my time of pissing with cars I use the Crower stage 2 turbo cams. They have the .465" lift on the intake and .455" on the exhaust and they are still making power on my car at 9500rpm that's were i stop spinning my motor due to rod stretch. Umm on the other hand most everybody that's going to be running a OEM cam run the GSR's in turbo applications. I don't have any other experience with the skunk 2's or any other brand. Also i'm not sure what motor your going to putting cams into if a B-series for instance you need to make sure that if your going to be installing a cam that has a valve lift of .430" or more you need to make sure that the LMA's are either Type R or very late model B16/GSR units or else they will bottom out and cam breakage is a possibility.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Question

550whp said:
I've only ran 1 set of cams in my time of pissing with cars I use the Crower stage 2 turbo cams. They have the .465" lift on the intake and .455" on the exhaust and they are still making power on my car at 9500rpm that's were i stop spinning my motor due to rod stretch. Umm on the other hand most everybody that's going to be running a OEM cam run the GSR's in turbo applications. I don't have any other experience with the skunk 2's or any other brand. Also i'm not sure what motor your going to putting cams into if a B-series for instance you need to make sure that if your going to be installing a cam that has a valve lift of .430" or more you need to make sure that the LMA's are either Type R or very late model B16/GSR units or else they will bottom out and cam breakage is a possibility.
Well im running a GSR B18C1 HEAD with CIVIC TYPE R CAMS NOW !!
The HEAD HAS: Skunk2 (Srpings,Retainers, JG Bigger Valves, P&P, AEM Sprokets and just bought some

SKUNK2 TURBO CAMS FOR 400.00 Bucks today when i Install the TURBO
as for my bottom end I have a B18A1 block with a 95MM Crank from Eagle, H-Rods, JG Piston 10.1 comp , RS Machine sleeves.

Already installed : (Apex N1 Exhaust, Straight Pipe, Type R tranny LSD)
Aftermarket Radiator and FAN. moroso oil pan.

I'm not sure on to which MSD to go with Yet?

I'm trying to find out if the cams that i bought are good enought to surprise me with power?

I'm about to install this on march

GARRETT T3/T4 Turbo with a 35mm Wastegate 14psi sping
also installing (RC Injectors 750 CC, Fuel Pump Holley, Fuel presure regulator, AEM Fuel Filter, AEM Fuel Rail, NX-NOS Intercooler, Honda Data, Greddy Spec B,

So what else do i need? I need some Advice Gentlemen?
 

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You could just run the MSD 6 box unless your want to do a Coil On Plug converson if you plan on making tons of power. umm are you going to be using the RC 720's peak and hold or saturated? if peak and hold your gonna need to wire in a resistor box from a 90 to 95 accord/prelude. Your running the skunk2 cams with their springs/retainers so that should be good. When you got those springs and retainers it didnt' say anything about retainer to rocker arm clearance did it? Along with the cams? you didn't buy the cams yet though
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Skunk 2 specs

CAMSHAFT SPECS
INTAKE DURATION @ 1mm: 230 LIGT .385 (9.7MM)
EXHAUST DURATION @ 1mm:225 LIFT .350 (8.9mm)

Valve settings

Intake .0007 in
Exhaust:.008 in

so what do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
550whp said:
You could just run the MSD 6 box unless your want to do a Coil On Plug converson if you plan on making tons of power. umm are you going to be using the RC 720's peak and hold or saturated? if peak and hold your gonna need to wire in a resistor box from a 90 to 95 accord/prelude. Your running the skunk2 cams with their springs/retainers so that should be good. When you got those springs and retainers it didnt' say anything about retainer to rocker arm clearance did it? Along with the cams? you didn't buy the cams yet though
I bought the cams already. I have it posted above this .
I'm looking to do close to 550 Hp or soo.. if its possible..
as for the RC there SATURATED...

do you think im going the correcr route here
 

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reynosop21 said:
I bought the cams already. I have it posted above this .
I'm looking to do close to 550 Hp or soo.. if its possible..
as for the RC there SATURATED...

do you think im going the correcr route here
U seem to be on the right track so far. I run the MSD digital 6 with launch and rev control. I had to get it cause i was getting ignitionm break up at 15psi. The digital 6 owns!
Question tho: y did u get that high of a spring for the wastegate? Is 14 psi going to be ur low boost? Ur gonna have traction issues launching that i think.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
95accordlx said:
U seem to be on the right track so far. I run the MSD digital 6 with launch and rev control. I had to get it cause i was getting ignitionm break up at 15psi. The digital 6 owns!
Question tho: y did u get that high of a spring for the wastegate? Is 14 psi going to be ur low boost? Ur gonna have traction issues launching that i think.
I know.. I'm going to get a 5 spring...
I just ordered one on Ebay
 

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reynosop21 said:
I know.. I'm going to get a 5 spring...
I just ordered one on Ebay
Thats exactly what i have.......u might also want to get the remote switching button for the greddy profec-B so u can swith from high to low boost right from the steering wheel. I launch at 5 psi and swith to 12 once im at the end of second gear. Works like a charm!
 

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What you want to make HP wise depends what T3/T4 your have i run the GT35R
i'm making 604 @ the wheels 373TQ if you don't have the injectors yet i'd go with the peak and holds so you can run them to 90% duty cycle umm might want to consider getting some bigger injectors possibly i'm using RC 900cc peak and holds making that much power i'm running a 72% duty cycle i still have room for more. Your planning on making 550 at the track not daily right? anything over 500 your gonna be switching to some race gas when we were tuning my car anything over 20psi hated pump gas i know for a fact you can make up to 480 on 93 octane. As far as your fuel pump goes i'd run the inline from Endyn their Bosch pump you'll never need another one unless you make more than 700hp Endyn Your gonna be running Hondata right? Look at my dyno sheets you can see where my ignition broke up on one of the runs so making 550hp your gonna need a strong ignition. my post is under "CAR" check it out. my setup is posted there.

As far as that wastegate spring goes i run a 14psi spring in the tial 46mm it doesn't open until about 400hp so like the other guy said go with the smaller spring. unless you plan on driving with 500hp daily like me :eek
 

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Your going the correct route here. Those cams arn't really that agressive so dealing with the LMA's shouln't be a issue. You have valves too are the .5mm or 1mm oversize? What type of headgasket are you gonna use just curious what your overall compression is gonna be?

Are you going to bore and hone it?
Did you have to have your head resurfaced or have it checked to make sure it was flat?

You just gonna 0 deck the block?
 

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550whp said:
What you want to make HP wise depends what T3/T4 your have i run the GT35R
i'm making 604 @ the wheels 373TQ if you don't have the injectors yet i'd go with the peak and holds so you can run them to 90% duty cycle umm might want to consider getting some bigger injectors possibly i'm using RC 900cc peak and holds making that much power i'm running a 72% duty cycle i still have room for more. Your planning on making 550 at the track not daily right? anything over 500 your gonna be switching to some race gas when we were tuning my car anything over 20psi hated pump gas i know for a fact you can make up to 480 on 93 octane. As far as your fuel pump goes i'd run the inline from Endyn their Bosch pump you'll never need another one unless you make more than 700hp Endyn Your gonna be running Hondata right? Look at my dyno sheets you can see where my ignition broke up on one of the runs so making 550hp your gonna need a strong ignition. my post is under "CAR" check it out. my setup is posted there.

As far as that wastegate spring goes i run a 14psi spring in the tial 46mm it doesn't open until about 400hp so like the other guy said go with the smaller spring. unless you plan on driving with 500hp daily like me :eek
Did u ever run ur car at the track? If so.......how did u launch with that high of a spring!? Im getting hella issues with traction and im not even close to the power ur making. I realized the other day that power aint shit without control.....when my boy beat me (from a dig of course) with his turbo si making less power than me because i sat at the line spinning out. I launched @ 12 psi like an idiot! I learned my lesson the hard way.

I now replaced my kumhos with BFG gforce, i run a greddy remote swith for the EBC, and i have a quaife LSD sitting right beside me waiting to be installed!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
the valves are 1mm oversize, as for headgasket I'm using OEM B20. is there a better one i should be using?

the block is already HONE'd already. The head has been checked and its flat.


I'm going to be honest with you , what does 0 deck mean.
Does that mean, that I'm running open Sleeves.. if it is . YES I AM. and its by RSMACHINE..

When buying the MSD Ignition Digital - 6 do i need to buy a CAP, A BLASTER COIL ?

This is the Turbo specs

.57 T COMPRESSOR WHEEL

.50 A/R COMPRESSOR

.63 A/R TURBINE

heres the kit in this link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7950634785

I am going to run the Injectors at 90 pct peak only at the track only, hopefully that takes me close to 500 hp at the track. it is going to be daily driven :( , I'm considering lowring boost when i drive the car daily .
HONDADATA is on the wroks for me.. I'm just not sure on to witch one to get s100 or s200...
 

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I'm using the AEM EMS i have traction control in it. I have the 2-step rev limiters and shit like that. Using fuel cut and Ignition cut and 2-step retard rev.

It's been cold and snowy here so can't get traction i just dyno tuned the car about 4 weeks ago. I have my buddy's slicks sitting here if it was dry i'd try em out see what happens. i'll be hitting up the track in the spring get some ET's

But it does leave black marks on the highway in 4th gear 18psi.

Since it looks like your lowered did you ever fix your camber you getting alot of wear on the inside or your street tires? With turbo it's all in your suspension and how it's set up and the goal is to get as much rubber on the ground as possible.

I lowered my car until now i realized i wanted to get into high hp and building race motors i want to raise it back up and get some stiff spring rates up front so i can fix some monster meats under that bitch. And belive me i hear ya whne you say HP ain't shit without traction :)
 

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I hate to bust your balls man that turbo is not gonna make near 500hp for that much just get a decent manifold and grab the precison SC61 turbo for about $750. i know a kid here in town that bought one of those it's small. That thing is gonna get hot making alot of boost and go out of it's efficiency range. if you wannna make 500hp the SC61 will do it without a doubt
 

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Discussion Starter #16
550whp said:
I hate to bust your balls man that turbo is not gonna make near 500hp for that much just get a decent manifold and grab the precison SC61 turbo for about $750. i know a kid here in town that bought one of those it's small. That thing is gonna get hot making alot of boost and go out of it's efficiency range. if you wannna make 500hp the SC61 will do it without a doubt
what do you think is the most i would get out of that piece of shit turbo....

I've been told to be careful with the car since im running a 95mm crank
 

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Discussion Starter #17
550whp said:
I hate to bust your balls man that turbo is not gonna make near 500hp for that much just get a decent manifold and grab the precison SC61 turbo for about $750. i know a kid here in town that bought one of those it's small. That thing is gonna get hot making alot of boost and go out of it's efficiency range. if you wannna make 500hp the SC61 will do it without a doubt

theres reason im running that turbo, is b cuz
I'm keeping the AC in the car
i just want to be a 12 sec car that all
 

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I'll try to explain decking as best as i can. Ok
Say a engine has a .010" piston to deck clearance meaning the pistons are in the hole .010" Checked using a depth micrometer. You would need to mill the .010" off the deck to achive the 0 deck like i'm talking about meaning the pistons come directly to the top of the cylinder not off by a hair.

Now say you want to leave the pistons in the hole like say .002" and you had a piston to deck clearance of .010" you would need to mill .008 off the deck to achieve leaving the pistons in the hold .002" meaning the Quench Pads would be in the hole .002" If your curious what quench pad are they are the intake and exhuast sides of the pistons
 

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Ok thats cool i didn't realize your were keeping A/C a kid in town here had that turbo and a guy here slapped it on for him facing the compressor towards the A/C so he removed it not thinking he could flip it around and keep A/C.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
550whp said:
Ok thats cool i didn't realize your were keeping A/C a kid in town here had that turbo and a guy here slapped it on for him facing the compressor towards the A/C so he removed it not thinking he could flip it around and keep A/C.
Thanks for all the Advice bro.. cans wait to see the type of 1/4 splips you bring.. make sure to post them...
 
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