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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I own a 95' Honda Civic HB DX w/ 188,000 and my buddy wants me to turbo my car, he said he'll even through in a T3. I have heard a lot of horror stories, and I really want my engine to last. I already have an oil leak in between my tranny and block, on the block side. If I turbo the motor, I know I would need to replace that seal. My question is; is it worth it to Turbo Charge a D15B7? :confused
 

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i'd say to get another d motor prefferably a d16z6 for like 350 then turbo and youll be good cuz that motor is def shitty with 188k on it
 

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It's hard to say it's "shitty" without first doing a compression test. When my b7 was at around 192,000 miles the compression was 190, 190, 195, 195... pretty damn good for nearly 200k miles.

If it's healthy I see no reason to not boost it if that is what you want. Keep the boost low, say between 5 to 7 psi, and get it tuned, and you should have no problems at all. If you want to go higher you will want to overhaul the engine with forged internals and a metal head gasket.

Again if your b7 is healthy there is no reason to go with a z6 unless you really must have vtec, and chances are it will be high mileage also and then you'll have to pay for someone to maintain and install it. If you are going to pay for another D motor + labor for the swap + turbo & tune you might as well go with a B16 and leave it N/A because it will end up being about the same in cost and power anyway.

If I were in your situation, I'd only swap motors if I wanted more power and didn't want to boost. You won't get much from a N/A D-series without a lot of time and money.
 

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a bi16 makes like what 160hp slipjack???my friend has one in a 91 crx and loves it, by the way the zc has blown headgasket for sure, im doing it right now, oh boy fun fun for a friday nite
 

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Go to JDMshit.com and look at their HCP mounts section. When you get to this point, look for the EG H22 swap mount package and go from there. You'll end up spending way more on a turbo setup, while you could have a reliable stock engine with a 75hp wetshot and run low 12's easily.

Sophistication isn't always the best route. Save money, have a more reliable setup, and go faster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks a lot, I didn't know that there were so many people out there turboing D-Series motors; let along a D15B7. I will talk with my friends once I get back home and figure everything out, I am feeling better about this idea, after looking at the others out there who have already done what I want to do. :D
 

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Putney said:
Thanks a lot, I didn't know that there were so many people out there turboing D-Series motors; let along a D15B7. I will talk with my friends once I get back home and figure everything out, I am feeling better about this idea, after looking at the others out there who have already done what I want to do. :D
there are retarded amounts of turbo D-s out there because instead of spending 2 grand on a B series stock motor people turbo a D for half the cash and make close to 200whp no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think I might just go ahead an say yes I will turbo the motor, but not until the spring. I have way to much going on right now, some time next week or the week after I have to give it a full tune up and flush all the fluids and get a compression test and make sure the motors ready to be turboed. September 24th the car goes into the body shop to get a new coat of paint and get a lip job. My clutch is going and I think it might be at the end of it's life. Does anyone know of a good street clutch thats not too much, but that can handle abuse and turbo power in the near future? :confused :D
 

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Putney said:
I think I might just go ahead an say yes I will turbo the motor, but not until the spring. I have way to much going on right now, some time next week or the week after I have to give it a full tune up and flush all the fluids and get a compression test and make sure the motors ready to be turboed. September 24th the car goes into the body shop to get a new coat of paint and get a lip job. My clutch is going and I think it might be at the end of it's life. Does anyone know of a good street clutch thats not too much, but that can handle abuse and turbo power in the near future? :confused :D
great idea I just did all of that stuff your talking about, im 1 step ahead of you :)

here is the clutch I will be using.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XTD-...tegoryZ33730QQihZ009QQitemZ190023460298QQrdZ1
 

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i would not recomend that xtd clutch. i put one in my car and even broke it in for 500 miles and when i started getting on it full throttle it would slipp like a bitch.......it was fine except when u were ripping on it . who knows maybe youll get lucky though
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
speedjunky01 said:
its really not that bad, ive driven a sentra with one on it, pedal isnt heavy but it grabs great, plus its a SPRUNG 6 puck so the engagement is hard at all.


ACT is by better then this but it is more then x2 the price.
The clutch is on back order, but I ordered it anyway. It will arrive some time early in Oct.

I got a compression test and it's 180, 180, 110, 180? I don't know what this means, but I don't think I can run boost with the third cylinder at 110. I feel really bad because I would really like to. If anyone has any suggestions for me that would be helpful. Thanks :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
speedjunky01 said:
your engine is fucker that 110 is a dead ass piston ring.

time to swap or rebuild. you can boost it still but will be no good and will die quickly.
That would really suck, if your right. The Honda Dealer in Keene, NH told me its not a big deal unless it drops below 80. Then I be in some serious trouble. How long will the motor last with the 180, 180, 110, 180? :confused
 

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Putney said:
That would really suck, if your right. The Honda Dealer in Keene, NH told me its not a big deal unless it drops below 80. Then I be in some serious trouble. How long will the motor last with the 180, 180, 110, 180? :confused
well honda off keen is full of duchebags then. the manual WRITEN BY HONDA states that no 2 cylinders should be more then 20% difference.

do this for me warm the car up fully and repeat the test on that one low cylinder BUT put a table spoon of oil straight into that cyliner(use a long funnel or something so oil doesnt get in the sparkplug well)

if the new number is higher then 110 by alot (like 30 or more psi) then this basicly 80% sure its your piston ring on that cylinder.

if the number doesnt go up at all then it could be a few other things.


let us know how the oil in that low cylinder helps or does nothing. from there we will tell you whats wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
speedjunky01 said:
well honda off keen is full of duchebags then. the manual WRITEN BY HONDA states that no 2 cylinders should be more then 20% difference.

do this for me warm the car up fully and repeat the test on that one low cylinder BUT put a table spoon of oil straight into that cyliner(use a long funnel or something so oil doesnt get in the sparkplug well)

if the new number is higher then 110 by alot (like 30 or more psi) then this basicly 80% sure its your piston ring on that cylinder.

if the number doesnt go up at all then it could be a few other things.


let us know how the oil in that low cylinder helps or does nothing. from there we will tell you whats wrong.
Yea, I just read about it in my Chilton repair manual. I will ask the dealership if they did that and if they can do it again if they hadn't. How long do you estimate that I can drive the car the way it is now? :(
 

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Putney said:
Yea, I just read about it in my Chilton repair manual. I will ask the dealership if they did that and if they can do it again if they hadn't. How long do you estimate that I can drive the car the way it is now? :(
for ever, it may burn some oil and be a little slower then if the piston rings were fucked up but the engine will keep puting no problem.


just keep changing oil and dont use carbon cleaners or synthetic oil and it will be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
speedjunky01 said:
for ever, it may burn some oil and be a little slower then if the piston rings were fucked up but the engine will keep puting no problem.


just keep changing oil and dont use carbon cleaners or synthetic oil and it will be fine.
You say NOT to use carbon cleaners or synthetic oil WHY? Whats the reason for that? :confused
 
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