[Sponge-Bob]

my issues in order: speed; daily drivability/durability; price;

i heard even basic bolt ons in a 93 civic HB with h22a would run 13/12's and peel out till 3rd... anybody else have an h22a swap or a b18c1 in a civic hb?? id really like to know your pros and cons and how do u drive em! thanks

 

[chaosi]

i looked into H22a and H22a with turbo before making a decision on a car. Theres alot of traction issues, even with just the H22, however with the right amount of money, you can do it...i was looking to get H22, motor mounts, new axles, a Quaife LSD, Z10 traction bar, Some Nitto 555R or Flaken Azenias, then you might be able to put the power to the ground more efficently. probably looking at about 4G there plus install.

Turbo..thats another story, i dont even know how much room you would have left. It also depends on what you are gonna use the car for, if you just plan on driving the car in a straight line, go for it.

B18C1 might be a better route, theres more aftermarket support. the engine is a better fit, better drivability, etc.

if i were going to do it, H22a would be a good drag car, B18C would be a good street car. thats just my opinion.

not to dicourage you against either of them, but heres some info:

http://hybrid.honda-perf.org/tech/badidea.html

 

[Sponge-Bob]

thanks for the tips...

but what about an h22a into a n/a del sol?? and same with a b18c1?? which would be cheaper...? thanks again

 

[chaosi]

i would assume you would have the same problems, the delsol is a little heavier i believe, but basically just a civic..not that it cant be done, but if you want it done right, you will have to pay for it, otherwise, youre gonna be doin the sit and spin routine...with tires that is...if youre gonna do it basically the same things as with the hatch.

 

[Skunk2Integra]

I have a H22 in my teg and its fine.

 

[chaosi]

nice, you have any other work done to it? any traction/axle problems?

 

[Skunk2Integra]

traction problems definitely. The H22 has ALOT of torque. Layin down lots of rubber going into third. No axle problems yet considering iam running on 555R. I work for skunk so i'll be the first to try out their H22 parts. hehehehe Stage 3 cams.....

 

[h22#1runner]

i have a 1997 prelude with a h22a4 with 75k and i have 18" running 225/40 and they still break loose the tires are nexen n3000 asuhp tires i think a h22 is far better than the b18c1 just my opinion

 

[2highpsi]

h swaps are a very fun swap. i did one for my friend in a 93 hatch, and pretty much drove it when i pleased. from dead stops it spun but nothing crazy. only down side for h series with boost is the stock ring lands are very weak and break easily, soo if you wanted to build it for boost you would need to sleeve it. unless you want to run the mahle pistons then you can use the stock fmr sleeves.

 

[98vtec]

h swaps are a very fun swap. i did one for my friend in a 93 hatch, and pretty much drove it when i pleased. from dead stops it spun but nothing crazy. only down side for h series with boost is the stock ring lands are very weak and break easily, soo if you wanted to build it for boost you would need to sleeve it. unless you want to run the mahle pistons then you can use the stock fmr sleeves.

there are ways around that.....

 

[2highpsi]

around what sleeving or using the mahle pistons

 

[98vtec]

around what sleeving or using the mahle pistons

the "weak" ringlands

 

[2highpsi]

thats why i said use the mahle pistons, and everything else can be left stock.

 

[vtecnitrocrx]

Well, first you have to figure out the arguement of N/A versus Boost.

N/a has a definite factor of reliability, but $/hp is much higher N/A. Your gonna make 500whp turbo'd for the same price it'll take you to make 250whp N/A. Reliability is relative in my opinion. I've built cars in business for 8 years now, and everything I build is reliable, to an extent. Any time your abusing components, things break, it's just a fact, but overall reliability comes down to how well it's installed, tuned, and whether the components used are junk or not.

I've built every combination you propose in the past for myself personally. I've also built quite a few cars for customers of various combinations obviously. I've personally had a GSR hatch, an H22a/LSD tranny EG hatch, a turbo'd H22 EK coupe, and now I currently have a DelSol with an LS/vtec and a GT30R.

Looking back on the experiences of the cars prior, H's are out in my opinion. H's have great torque, and great transient response, but the increased front end weight is apparent, and axle bind/breakage isn't uncommon. H's also present an issue just due to their sleeves, etc. Size in the engine bay is another downside that presents problems. H's also have inherently weak synchro's in the tranny.

The B's are great for boost...there's no way around it. Lots of tranny combo's, lots of aftermarket support, and strong stock sleeves. B's make big power, it's no secret, and it's the way to go. H's can be boosted...that's not what I'm saying, but in terms of cash and feasibility B's are better.

So, how to sum this up though? My verdict is, if your gonna go boost, go with a Bseries for the reasons I've stated. You have more room, less weight, good tranny options, plenty of power potential, etc.

If you go N/A, go H2B. The H2B combination completely takes a large part of the Hswap problem out of the picture. No axle bind, no weak synchro's, less weight up front, with all the power girth of the H22. H22 torque is awesome in a light chassis...it simply never got old. I'd pull on traffic just touching the pedal...it was probably the closest to driving an N/A V8 car a Honda could get.

So, now the final choice is, how fast do you go for the money, and how reliable are the two above stated options.

Well, the Bseries is gonna make more power boosted, and create an inevitably faster car....it's just the way it is. The Bseries is gonna cost less as well. With a budget of 4000-5000 bucks doing most of your own work you can make 400+whp and run 11's.

The H2B is gonna be more expensive, but my bet on reliability goes here. The H2B adapter alone is 1000 bucks, but H22 longblocks are cheap. It takes some components, some wiring, some fitting, and some fab. So getting it all to come together takes a little more. N/A, the H2B is fast. I'm currently building an H2D EF using the Bisimoto adapter and it's gonna be fun.

Both setups run similar budgets, but the Bseries will make more power, while the H2B will be a torque monster and be reliable.

Now...if you did H2B turbo with double the budget...hmmmmm