Honda and Acura Car Forums banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the day replace my D16Y7 with a D16Z6 is happening saturday
but i still have no idea how to wire the VTEC selenoid to the ECU
iv looked every where on how to do this task but cant find it
if anyone can help me out with this it would be appreciated

this may be helpful info
the D16Z6 is being converted over to OBD2
by using certain parts of the Y7 and a Y8 with the Y7 harness
ill be using a OBD2 VTEC auto tranny ECU



also iv heard that OBD1 ECUS could be chipped and converted
to work with OBD2 harnesses is this possiable
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,625 Posts
Hmm...you know OBD2 has the crank fluctuation sensor in the oil pump right?You will have to at LEAST swap a Y7/Y8 oil pump w/sensor onto the block, also using the lower timing cover. And I believe there is something either on the crank or the crank itself is different for the sensor to read it. Better check into that, if you are trying to run OBD2 w/o a crank sensor it won't run right.

Also, hopefully you aren't going to use the Y7 intake manifold setup. It is so restrictive the VTEC will be nearly useless since the head won't be able to breathe. Is your car an automatic? If not I suggest not using an auto ecu. Personally I suggest getting a P28 and saving yourself tons of trouble. You will also need to add a knock sensor onto the Z6 block using a Y8 auto ecu.

There are diagrams that tell you what pins to use in various places on the net but it depends on whether you have a 96-98 or a 99-00 Civic. You need to get some extra wires/pins from a donor/junk harness and add them into your harness for knock, VTEC sol, and VTEC pres. plus one from VTEC pres. to the terminal block on the harness. Putting the new wires in the ecu plugs takes some finesse but is easy once you get the hang of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
682 Posts
klungemonger said:
Hmm...you know OBD2 has the crank fluctuation sensor in the oil pump right?You will have to at LEAST swap a Y7/Y8 oil pump w/sensor onto the block, also using the lower timing cover. And I believe there is something either on the crank or the crank itself is different for the sensor to read it. Better check into that, if you are trying to run OBD2 w/o a crank sensor it won't run right.

Also, hopefully you aren't going to use the Y7 intake manifold setup. It is so restrictive the VTEC will be nearly useless since the head won't be able to breathe. Is your car an automatic? If not I suggest not using an auto ecu. Personally I suggest getting a P28 and saving yourself tons of trouble. You will also need to add a knock sensor onto the Z6 block using a Y8 auto ecu.

There are diagrams that tell you what pins to use in various places on the net but it depends on whether you have a 96-98 or a 99-00 Civic. You need to get some extra wires/pins from a donor/junk harness and add them into your harness for knock, VTEC sol, and VTEC pres. plus one from VTEC pres. to the terminal block on the harness. Putting the new wires in the ecu plugs takes some finesse but is easy once you get the hang of it.

wow.. i actually thought everyone on this site knew what they were talking about, no offense.. as for the crank fluctuation sensor, do this....
CFK bypass trick

then as for the IM thing.. yes a D16y8 IM would b more beneficial.. but... if u dont have it right now rhen dont wait till u can get it... just use the one u have... if u have it use it.. but as most people know, on a SOHC Vtec the Vtec activation is only on the Intake side, so therefore ur not letting out anymore gasses than b4, so really Vtec on a SOHC is not really ganna suffer from not using the right manifold, IE- if u have a d16y7 and made 105hp and thnput in a D16z6 and made 110hp thn it would be the same as having a D16y7 and making 110hp with the Y8 or even Z6 IM and 115hp with the Z6 and Y8 or Z6 IM, u know what i mean right...

so in reality it wont hurt u more than b4, the performance will b increased, but when u have the manifold it will go up more... duh! anyways good luck man and if u need help wiring Vtec PM me and i have a walk through for the OBD2 cars to add Vtec...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
682 Posts
and as for the knock, if u dont wanna tap one into the block try this... keep that shit OBD-2.. try this...'


First of all, you can't ground it out or replace it with a resistor. The knock sensor is not an electrical load, it actually produces it's own voltage. Your ECU is looking for a variable voltage from the sensor.

So what you want to do is mimic the voltage output. Here is a guide of what to do:

1. First, go to Radioshack and buy a piezo transducer, part #273-073. You will find it will all the buzzers because that it's intended for. It costs $1.99.

2. Flip to the back of your haynes and look at the chassis electrical pages. Find which wire going into your ECU is for the knock sensor. If you have a 96-00 civic, it is the Red wire with a blue stripe. MAKE SURE YOU DON'T MISTAKE IT FOR THE BLUE WIRE WITH A RED STRIPE. That's for your AC system. Cut the wire about 6" from the ECU.

3. Tape the transducer to your fuel rail.

3. Weave a single wire from your fuel rail back to your ECU.

4. Connect the speaker wire to the (+) wire on the transducer.

5. Connect the other end of the wire to the Red/blue wire on your ECU.

6. Connect the (-) wire on the transducer to a good ground.


So basically, the positive wire of the transducer goes to the ECU and the negative wire goes to ground. I taped the transducer to the fuel rail because that's where I found it made the most voltage (most vibration).

The transducer only makes about a half a volt at 4k rpms and the ECU usually sees about 1.5 volts. So if you try this and it doesn't work, you will have to find a better location to tape the transducer or you will have to add a second transducer to bump up the voltage.



peace out home doggie, call me or whatever u need to finish the car!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,224 Posts
ITR_typeR said:
and as for the knock, if u dont wanna tap one into the block try this... keep that shit OBD-2.. try this...
peace out home doggie, call me or whatever u need to finish the car!
Wow does taping an electrical wire to the fuel rail sound like a bad idea to anyone else?? Anyway, http://www.greddy.com has the pinout for most honda ecus, if that helps at all. :rolleyes
Go to tech on the left side of the screen and click on Emanage and scroll down about 5/6 of the way to the ECU wire location chart.
GOOd LUCK!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,625 Posts
civicilian said:
Wow does taping an electrical wire to the fuel rail sound like a bad idea to anyone else?? :rolleyes
GOOd LUCK!!!
How dare you question the guru! After he made me look like such an idiot you didn't learn your lesson. :(

I am now convinced that OBD2 ecus with Jerry-rigged harnesses on old engine blocks is the best tuning solution. :bomb
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,625 Posts
Oh I also learned that because VTEC on an sohc is only on the intake side, there is no extra spent gasses coming out the exhaust therefore no need for a better exh. manifold! I used to think that because VTEC let more air and fuel into the engine that more exhaust was coming out but I stand corrected.

Also I used to think that because even a Y7 was choked above 5000 rpms with it's stock manifold, that a VTEC cam designed to flow substantially more air into the head above 5000 rpms would fare even worse, but now I am aware that it will not be affected and work fine.

There's a sadness in realizing one has believed in lies for so long, but also a triumph in being set free by truth! :w00t
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,384 Posts
i would normally suggest deleting this fanboys (ITR_typeR) posts, but idiocy such as this is too uncommon to remove.

the simple solution is to NOT listen to ITR_typeR, and use an auto p28. i'm assuming your car is of the obd2a/b generation, so a conversion harness will be needed. if you're from 96-98, get an obd2a to obd1 conversion, if 99-00, get an obd2b to obd1 conversion harness. you will be spared from having to hack up a wiring harness, not to mention not having to add in the extra sensors mentioned by klungemonger.

as for the vtec wiring asked about initially :: check here ::

the basic rundown is you wire the 2 plugs (1 one-wire plug, and one 2-wire plug) through the firewall, and just plug them into the ecu harness. that's it. but you need to know the ecu pinouts that they go to. this is where the pinout diagrams in the d-series sticky come in handy. there's a nice graphic of the pinouts and what they all are.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,625 Posts
I'm sure the little tricks mentioned probably work, I just don't think they are a good idea. Jumping sensor wires into other sensor wires, and taping wires onto the fuel rail are not methods I personally condone. If someone was broke and desperate I guess this would be a solution but I wouldn't consider it a permanent one.

Looking at his sig it appears he is some sort of OBD1 chipper which is why I'm puzzled he would give :tu to staying OBD2. OBD2 sucks compared to OBD1, it's why the chipping/tuning/harness biz is booming. We've all agreed time and again that doing it right is better than doing it cheap. Although personally I don't consider OBD1 conversion expensive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,384 Posts
yea, you could do it cheap to get you by, but i hate doing things twice...

i was always taught (and bitched at by the 'rents) to do things right the first time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
682 Posts
doing an OBD-1 conversion isnt that bad if u have a OBD-2 car, 100 bux or less for the jumper and even i could hook u up with a ecu nsocketed and whatever programu want for 160.. so thats 260 maybe 300 for the conversion and its worth it for uberdata.. i compare uberdata to some of the top tuning programs because u can do anything and no joke anything, and if u know how to rite scripting then even better cause u can activate things off of unused pins, nitrous, 3stage stepping, shit like that, i was just saying use ur original system and th cheaper way to get thing done. u can beat free... and as for the knock sensor thing, we use it all the time down by the ecu and it bypasses the knock sensor easily and usually is a clean install... and as for tapping the wires together, they added that sensor but u dont need it obviouly if it can b bypassed so easily and work flawlessly... so i say ditch it, and like the O2 sensor heater, we dont use those we turn them off because sometimes they will cause the O2 readings to act up... anyways, im here to help adn i wasnt being a dick (i hadnt slept in 28 hrs cause at the last minute i had to tune a kids car for the track today and the god danm Vtec oil pressure was throwing a code, turned it off and went away)... so ya, things suck sometimes when ur not thinking, but im the computer tuning guy and im sure there are more guys on here, havnt been onthi forum in awhile so ya, im back, later-

P.S.- do u guys have a place to list setups cause i have my ITB D15a6 (d15b2 with b7 IM originally, makes it a MPFI D15a6! :number1 ) and a EXOSPEED cam and AN-R bisimoto copy header.. made just over 140hp and 110ft lbs of torque... anyways, later-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
908 Posts
^^ Use paragraphs please ^^

Full words and better punctuation (read up on what a "run-on sentence" is) helps too. I get a headache reading your posts because you are too lazy to type.

I'm not normally one to bitch at people for typing and grammar, but you honestly can't expect people to read that mess.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
682 Posts
sorry, i think? im confused, thought it was a free country. But ok, i will type this way just for you little guy, hah! lol. its all good, im in the habit of talking like i talk, very fast and run on sentences all the time. i would appriciate not being bitched at, im here to help not get talked shit to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
682 Posts
civicilian said:
Wow does taping an electrical wire to the fuel rail sound like a bad idea to anyone else?? Anyway, http://www.greddy.com has the pinout for most honda ecus, if that helps at all. :rolleyes
Go to tech on the left side of the screen and click on Emanage and scroll down about 5/6 of the way to the ECU wire location chart.
GOOd LUCK!!!
oh and FTW, what do i think ur injector clips do, supply ground and power to the injectors... so ur telling me ave a electrical connection that is covered is not as safe as that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
682 Posts
ok.. but :number1 u were wrong about the electrical thing, injector clips are just as safe as the elctrical thing being on the rail!!!! FTW!! lol.. its all good guys, im donw with the bitches! next question :clap :lmao
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top