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Alright. So you’re probably here because you’re wanting to make that slow D-series paperweight of an engine a bit faster, and with that Intake, Header, Exhaust, and Cam you've added, you didn’t feel much of a gain and still continue to get walked on, pummeled, and regurgitated by all of the soccer mom vans, Geo Metros, and the occasional GTO’s that you feel that you can win against. Well, fortunately for us, not all hope is lost. D-series engines are built like a tank, very solid, reliable and will take what you throw at them.
Yes, that’s right. I’m talking about boost (turbo). D-series love turbo, it’s like their crack.
Now on with what you need to know. Going into the world of boost is not only addicting but it takes a lot of work, time, and patience. It is not for everyone, it takes A LOT of research to understand how everything works. If you’re here looking for which engine you should swap for your D-series, then read no further. This write-up is for the big ballers who want to keep the same engine while making sexy amounts of power.​
Can you boost without upgrading the internals (Pistons, rods, valves, retainers ect..)? Yes, no doubt about it! Like I said before, D-series are built like a tank. On stock internals, you shouldn’t push your D over 220hp. Yes, it’s been done to well over 350 before, but I wouldn’t try it. If you’re thinking “well, 220 hp isn’t a lot”…then think again! Remember that you’re driving a little FWD Civic that barely breaks 1-ton. At 220hp, it will MOVE! Anything above that becomes difficult to control, maintain, and requires a fairly vast amount of knowledge and driving skill.​
If you’re not planning to upgrade your internals, make sure your engine is healthy and can handle the extra air you are slamming into it. Do a leak down and compression test. If you’re not sure what this is then the turbo route isn’t for you. A simple search on SHO will yield the exact answer your need as to what they are.
There are two routes you can go as far as getting a turbo onto your engine, turbo Kit or a Custom turbo (Homemade turbo, budget build).
The turbo kit is much easier to do and highly recommended for those new to forced induction.​
The turbo kit comes with just about everything you need to boost your car. They come in different stages, depending on what power you want to put down and what kind of money you're willing to spend. Turbo kits should be in the $3,000+ range, anything less than that and I would be worried about the quality. Ebay turbo kits are a no-no, often made by SS Auto Chrome, they have a terrible rep, and they are very hit or miss. Sometimes they do fine, but often times do not. Turbo is not something you want to cheap out on.
Custom Turbos are my choice, mainly because you can choose exactly what part you want, and you can get the satisfaction of doing it yourself. A custom turbo build, also know as a budget build can often times be a lot less than buying a turbo kit. With a CT, you basically piece together your own parts slowly but surely, and can find great deals online.​
Confused about what size turbo to get (check out our turbo section)? I don’t blame you; there are a ridiculous amount of turbos you can choose from. That is something you’re going to need to research yourself and find what fits your needs. Just keep this in mind the smaller the turbo, the faster it spools. The larger the turbo the slower it spools and you won’t get power untill you’re in the higher RPM range. Also, here is another thing to keep in mind;​

Fast+Cheap=Not Reliable
Cheap+Reliable=Not Fast
Fast+Reliable=Not Cheap


Here is something from Rota92 that should help as far as what PSI you should be running at. Just keep in mind, PSI does NOT equal horsepower! 5psi on ANY D-series engine should put you in the 14 second ¼ mile time. If you’re running 6-8psi you should expect high 13 to low 14 ¼ times. 9-12psi and you’re looking at about low 13’s IF you’re running a decent set of slicks and are a decent driver.​
Can my turbo’d D be a daily driver? Well hell yes it can, you can set your boost controller to 2 different boost settings and make it a lot easier to drive on the street. I’m going to be at over 300whp and driving her 3,000miles every 2 months.​
So you’ve decided to go the custom turbo route and are not too sure about what you need to make it happen? Not all of the parts I’m listing will be necessary.
Manifold (look into a custom or log mani. if you’re wanting to keep your AC/PS)
Downpipe
Dumptube
Headwork
Slim fan/radiator
Catch Can
BOV
Wastegate
Oil Lines
Oil Restrictor
Piping for the intercooler
Intercooler
Engine Management
ECU
Wideband
Gauges
Turbo Timer
Boost Controller
Spark Plugs
Intake Manifold
Upgraded valvetrain
Cam
Clutch
LSD (So you can put your power to the ground)
Axels
Pistons
Fuel Pump
Fuel Rail
Fuel Injectors

One last thing…TUNE, tune, tune, tune!! You can’t do ANYTHING with out a good tune! Need a list of local shops that will tune for you? Well, here ya go!
Tuner Directory

I hope this helped, and I hope it cuts down on the amount of repetitive questions we have asked every week! If you have anymore questions, I’d be MORE than happy to help! Just shoot me a PM

Joe
 

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good writeup man :btu
 

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I got a question it might sound stupid or sorta noobish but what's a log mani? I'm putting together a kit slowly but I'm getting there. Thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I got a question it might sound stupid or sorta noobish but what's a log mani? I'm putting together a kit slowly but I'm getting there. Thanks for the info.
No prob for the info!
Thats not a stupid question at all. A log manifold is a low profile exhaust manifold that uses a lot less room than a ramhorn mani. would. If you're wanting to keep your AC then this is a good route to go, unless you are able to spend a decent amount of money on a custom ram. manifold that will retain the AC. The log mani. is usually a little bit more restrictive. Here are some pictures so you can get an idea :)!

Log Mani:


Ramhorn Mani:



Joe


EDIT: Make sure, if getting a log manifold that the wastegate flange is in a good spot. You want it as close to the center as possible. Notice on the ram. manifold that all of the runners end up to where the wastegate would be, thats perfect ;)!
 

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will i be able to turbo a d16y5 engine without blowing it?
yes, run a compression test on the motor beforehand just to see if the motor is stable enough to handle the extra pressure.

then the key is the tune. With a crappy tune, it could blow in a day, with a good tune, it can last practically forever.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes. I covered this above. That was the point of making this. I also explained what is needed to do to see if your engine is healthy enough to boost.
 

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will i be able to turbo a d16y5 engine, with a skunk2 intake manifold,intake and 2 1/2 inch magnaflow catback exhaust? forgot to tell it is a 98 and only has 47,000 miles on it.
 

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will i be able to turbo a d16y5 engine, with a skunk2 intake manifold,intake and 2 1/2 inch magnaflow catback exhaust?
can you not read?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes! You don't need to ask the same questions 2 times. When you get an intercooler, that will take place of the intake you have now.
 

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No prob for the info!
Thats not a stupid question at all. A log manifold is a low profile exhaust manifold that uses a lot less room than a ramhorn mani. would. If you're wanting to keep your AC then this is a good route to go, unless you are able to spend a decent amount of money on a custom ram. manifold that will retain the AC. The log mani. is usually a little bit more restrictive. Here are some pictures so you can get an idea :)!

Log Mani:


Ramhorn Mani:



Joe


EDIT: Make sure, if getting a log manifold that the wastegate flange is in a good spot. You want it as close to the center as possible. Notice on the ram. manifold that all of the runners end up to where the wastegate would be, thats perfect ;)!

thanks for clearing that up for me. i want to keep the ac since i live in florida and summers here with no ac would like sucide. i was thinking of making my own mani but im gonna do some research on that log manifold. Thanks again.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yup. You misunderstood. The intake will basically become part of the intercooler piping.

You can see in the picture that the intake goes from the throttle body clear down into the intercooler, looks almost like a CAI, but it's not.
 

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sweet, thanks man. im new to imports, i know about v8 and shit and muscle cars but i dont know a whole lot on how it works, i understand the theory of it and everything but not every little thing about it, thats why im going with a turbo kit like you suggested for newbies lol. thanks for the info, im glad i can still use an aftermarket intake and throttle body ported to 70mm (the Intake mani) you think that would help wit a turbo or should i save my money on having it ported to 70mm (the intake)
 

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nice write up joe. just thought i would throw this picture in here to help out with any other questions and what not.



Also if you guys have access to a welder or know someone who does, they do make kits out there that come with the proper flanges and piping, all you need to do is weld them together. Sounds easy, but if you have never welded before and think you can do it, you probably can't. Here are some good places for these manifold kits:

www.tunertoys.com
www.bmcrace.com

hope i added something to teh thread :)
 
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