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Finally purchased a 2K civic EX. I am going to go the DIY route and build my own kit. I guess for starters once I get warmer weather here in NJ and I run a leak down test I want to know the following:

Turbo - I would like to run 5-8PSI, what would you recommend and why?
ECU piggy back or no? Like the e-Manage?
Where can you buy the piping?
350 or 440 injectors?

The car I got has around 130K miles but the clutch and flywheel feel brand new :) So I might be good before I need to swap that out.

Thanks
 

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Darth Chinko
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Finally purchased a 2K civic EX. I am going to go the DIY route and build my own kit. I guess for starters once I get warmer weather here in NJ and I run a leak down test I want to know the following:

Turbo - I would like to run 5-8PSI, what would you recommend and why?
ECU piggy back or no? Like the e-Manage?
Where can you buy the piping?
350 or 440 injectors?

The car I got has around 130K miles but the clutch and flywheel feel brand new :) So I might be good before I need to swap that out.

Thanks
1. do more resarch...psi means absolutely nothing...come up with a power goal and then decide on a turbo
2. piggybacks are for ricer...chip your ecu
3. you can buy piping anywhere did you check ebay
4. injector size is Dependant on your hp need
 

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1. do more resarch...psi means absolutely nothing...come up with a power goal and then decide on a turbo
2. piggybacks are for ricer...chip your ecu
3. you can buy piping anywhere did you check ebay
4. injector size is Dependant on your hp need
Correct me if I am wrong but HP is just a number in the sense that there are many factors to get to that number. And would be speak in WHP? PSI, is PSI no matter where you are, at sea level or at the top of a mountain. correct? My real goal is to hit 13's but what HP that will take depends on a lot of factors such as the weight of the car correct? I figure I would 1st shoot for 5-8PSI and then take it from there.

How are piggy backs for a ricer? Can't you program a piggy back more then a chipped ECU if not the same? Trust me I wont be riding with my laptop in the front seat, I am not FATF.

I would think the pipes on ebay are made of cheap and thin metal, correct?

I guess we would need to look at where the current injectors fall off and go from there?
 

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Darth Chinko
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Correct me if I am wrong but HP is just a number in the sense that there are many factors to get to that number. And would be speak in WHP? PSI, is PSI no matter where you are, at sea level or at the top of a mountain. correct? My real goal is to hit 13's but what HP that will take depends on a lot of factors such as the weight of the car correct? I figure I would 1st shoot for 5-8PSI and then take it from there.

How are piggy backs for a ricer? Can't you program a piggy back more then a chipped ECU if not the same? Trust me I wont be riding with my laptop in the front seat, I am not FATF.

I would think the pipes on ebay are made of cheap and thin metal, correct?

I guess we would need to look at where the current injectors fall off and go from there?
no
and psi means nothing because psi doesn't equal power
you care about lbs/min aka cfm of the turbo to generate a certain amount of power at a certain point in your powerband. if you think psi = psi....go run 10 lbs on a t28 on your motor and then go run 10 lbs off of a gt35r and see if you still feel that way....so saying you want to run 5-8 psi means nothing at all.....and if you change altitude your psi will vary....go research psi and altitude and see what it says...pick a power goal and learn to read a compressor map

piggybacks are junk and no they do not offer more tuneability than a chipped ecu......and by chipped i mean a rom tuning ecu...not that ebay chipped shit...and if you're doing a real time street tune....then you would ride with your laptop in the car for your tuner to make adjustments.....do you think a piggy back can adjust timing or injector pulsewidth, or use anti-lag or two step?

ummm how much pressure do you think it takes to blow a hole in an aluminum intercooler pipe?....and ebay exhausts are made of stainless steel.....so what pipes are you afraid of blowing up?

and to support 300whp on your motor without issue you would probably need 550cc injectors.....if you're shooting for mid 200's 440cc would be fine

if you want 13's in your car.....traction and suspension will get you there faster than more power....the car is fwd remember that.....high power and fwd almost never benefit each other except on the highway.......physics are against you.......fwd is only good on ice and nothing more....get lsd...better tranny, bushings, stiffer suspension and some real sticky tires......then worry about power.....
 

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no
and psi means nothing because psi doesn't equal power
you car about lbs/min aka cfm of the turbo to generate a certain amount of power at a certain point in your powerband. if you think psi = psi....go run 10 lbs on a t28 on your motor and then go run 10 lbs off of a gt35r and see if you still feel that way....so saying you want to run 5-8 psi means nothing at all.....and if you change altitude your psi will vary....go research psi and altitude and see what it says...pick a power goal and learn to read a compressor map

piggybacks are junk and no they do not offer more tuneability than a chipped ecu......and by chipped i mean a rom tuning ecu...not that ebay chipped shit...and if you're doing a real time street tune....then you would ride with your laptop in the car for your tuner to make adjustments.....do you think a piggy back can adjust timing or injector pulsewidth, or use anti-lag or two step?

ummm how much pressure do you think it takes to blow a hole in an aluminum intercooler pipe?....and ebay exhausts are made of stainless steel.....so what pipes are you afraid of blowing up?

and to support 300whp on your motor without issue you would probably need 550cc injectors.....if you're shooting for mid 200's 440cc would be fine

if you want 13's in your car.....traction and suspension will get you there faster than more power....the car is fwd remember that.....high power and fwd almost never benefit each other except on the highway.......physics are against you.......fwd is only good on ice and nothing more....get lsd...better tranny, bushings, stiffer suspension and some real sticky tires......then worry about power.....
Then my bad. Maybe I should have said a T25 running 5-8 PSI. I would say A t25 for a SR20 for instance, does this help?

I was thinking 450CC DSM injectors, unless you have any ideas of ones that would be better then those.

Honda S100 I believe, have to check my notes.

HKS SSQ BOV

225 fuel pump

Any maybe a bigger throttle body?

Again these were my notes from my last intended build way back when, 8 yrs ago so I am not sure what to get, or if I should start all over again. Again I am trying to figure out my best way of doing something. I would like to hit 200-250 HP if that helps you in helping me.
 

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Darth Chinko
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Then my bad. Maybe I should have said a T25 running 5-8 PSI. I would say A t25 for a SR20 for instance, does this help?

I was thinking 450CC DSM injectors, unless you have any ideas of ones that would be better then those.

Honda S100 I believe, have to check my notes.

HKS SSQ BOV

225 fuel pump

Any maybe a bigger throttle body?

Again these were my notes from my last intended build way back when, 8 yrs ago so I am not sure what to get, or if I should start all over again. Again I am trying to figure out my best way of doing something. I would like to hit 200-250 HP if that helps you in helping me.
sr20's run t25g's t28's and gt28r.........t25's are for ca18det and 2g 4g63t's...

250hp or 250whp?

stock throttle body is fine

dsm 450's are fine

get a mitsu 14b or a t28....t3/t04e are too big for decent response unless you're shooting for a budget 300whp build....or look into spa turbo's they are nice quality and decent price...garret shit is way overpriced

hks ssq are ok but they get annoying after time

you don't even need hondata...chrome or neptune will get the job done

get a walbro fuel pump.....

what part of nj are you from?
 

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sr20's run t25g's t28's and gt28r.........t25's are for ca18det and 2g 4g63t's...name

250hp or 250whp

stock throttle body is fine

dsm 450's are fine

get a mitsu 14b or a t28....t3/t04e are too big for decent response unless you're shooting for a budget 300whp build....or look into spa turbo's they are nice quality and decent price...garret shit is way overpriced

hks ssq are ok but they get annoying after time

you don't even need hondata...chrome or neptune will get the job done

get a walbro fuel pump.....

what part of nj are you from?
Darness thanks!!

I am from Central Jersey, u? I guess a T28 is better. When would I expect boost to occur? 2,500 RPMs? Whats wrong with the SSQ's?
 

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Darth Chinko
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Darness thanks!!

I am from Central Jersey, u? I guess a T28 is better. When would I expect boost to occur? 2,500 RPMs? Whats wrong with the SSQ's?
yeah you can find used in good condition t28r's for 500-600 bucks...or an s14 one for 400-500 bucks....boost will prolly kick in around 2200 rpms...i have a bigger motor than you with a bigger t28 and i see boost in the early 2's and throttle response with something like a 14b or t28 would be sex for your daily driver.....i think ssq's are annoying since everybody wrx owner and dsm'er has one hehe :p then again i run recirculated so i don't really hear mine until i hit .7 bar
 

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Darth Chinko
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the pipes will be fine...you might have fitment issues since it's ebay...but just get a nice intercooler..(nothing big) and some really nice couplers....if you want a responsive turbo setup....don't get massive pipes and intercooler...it's all need based on power....then get a nice tune and some head work and you're 250 hp setup will spank cars with 20-30 % more power

p.s. i live about 15 minutes from center city philly
 

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yeah you can find used in good condition t28r's for 500-600 bucks...or an s14 one for 400-500 bucks....boost will prolly kick in around 2200 rpms...i have a bigger motor than you with a bigger t28 and i see boost in the early 2's and throttle response with something like a 14b or t28 would be sex for your daily driver.....i think ssq's are annoying since everybody wrx owner and dsm'er has one hehe :p then again i run recirculated so i don't really hear mine until i hit .7 bar
Any specific interal trim I should shoot for? For example a AR of...?
 

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the pipes will be fine...you might have fitment issues since it's ebay...but just get a nice intercooler..(nothing big) and some really nice couplers....if you want a responsive turbo setup....don't get massive pipes and intercooler...it's all need based on power....then get a nice tune and some head work and you're 250 hp setup will spank cars with 20-30 % more power

p.s. i live about 15 minutes from center city philly

What intercooler you running? I have in my notes a Spearco, but again that was 8 years ago, not sure what I should get that would work now a days. Any specific size? I would like to keep my AC so I know I have to watch my space especially with the BOV and turbo
 

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What intercooler you running? I have in my notes a Spearco, but again that was 8 years ago, not sure what I should get that would work now a days. Any specific size? I would like to keep my AC so I know I have to watch my space especially with the BOV and turbo
If you want to have a more efficient intercooler dont get a thick one, any more than 3 inches thick and your loosing cooling ability. Choose one thats 2 inches over 3 inches thick if possible, as long as you have the area to house a taller intercooler and still meet your flow requirements, go thin.

Bell makes intercoolers of various sizes, and for many of the sizes readily available you can get an approximate flow that the intercooler will support.
 

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If you want to have a more efficient intercooler dont get a thick one, any more than 3 inches thick and your loosing cooling ability. Choose one thats 2 inches over 3 inches thick if possible, as long as you have the area to house a taller intercooler and still meet your flow requirements, go thin.

Bell makes intercoolers of various sizes, and for many of the sizes readily available you can get an approximate flow that the intercooler will support.
How much CFM should I look for in an intercooler with that setup? 230? 800?
 

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How much CFM should I look for in an intercooler with that setup? 230? 800?
IMO, the CFM capability on the intercooler should be more than the CFM capability on the turbo( just a little more nothing crazy)

Remember that turbo graphs are shown in Lbs permin of air. Thus you will need to convert CFM to lbs of air and vice versa to know what will be right.

I say higher CFM so less restriction will be present when your maxing the turbo out(if ever) and a slight upgrade in turbos wont make a large bottleneck should you do that. Try and factor for a 10% higher flow in the intercoler than what the turbo your equiping the car with can put out.
 

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all about velocity baby
Oh hells yes. talk dirty to me.

air flow + slight taper on intake runner = increased velocity
+
increased velocity + fuel = better atomization
+
Better atomization = more efficient combustion

EQUALS MOA POWER
 

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Darkness - I found this site for turbos anyone, I do not see a T28r but others listed:
Max-Redline.com - Turbocharger:T15 T25 T28 Turbo

Thoughts....

This is what I was thinking
http://store.max-redline.com/servlet/-strse-535/T28-Turbo-Turbocharger-Civic/Detail
0.42 A/R Compressor, 0.86 A/R Turbine
- 2.5" Air Inlet
- 2" Air Outlet
- Wet Floating Bearings
- Oil and Water Cooled
- Standard T25/T28 Flange to Manifold
- 200-250 HP
- 14psi Internal Wastegate
- .42 A/R Compressor
- .86A/R Turbine
- 60mm/42mm Compressor Wheel
- 53mm/46mm Turbine Wheel
- 5 Bolt Hot Side (don't fit SR20DET Elbow pipe)
 

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Darth Chinko
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i still like the gt28r...used they're like 500 bucks...good to over 300whp and plenty streetable with really nice spool...dual ball bearings for greater transient throttle response yada yada yada
 
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