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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys what's up, i am having some trouble on deciding on what clutch to get for my build. I am doing a b18a1 swap in a 1994 Honda civic and the motor has stage 2 cams, and a shaved head. I was thinking maybe a 6 puck design, the kind with springs. Their is a guy i am really wanting to beat he has a civic hatch with a stock gsr motor only a clutch and slicks. Everyone i hear from Say's he is a rocket out of the hole. So if i can get the right clutch i should be able to launch, correct. Any suggestions or replies to how their car is with what clutch's. Thanks
 

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i wouldnt buy a certain type/model of clutch just because you have to beat someone. remember that no matter what you have done to your car there will always be someone faster than you. get a clutch that best suits your needs. if you drive your car every day in heavy traffic you wont find the 6puck too friendly on your drivetrain parts.
so choose a clutch that will be best for you and not to beat someone.
you could get away with a stock clutch for the mods you listed, but if you insist of going with something better go with a full face disk with some type of organic material and a pressure plate that can hold more.
here's an example:
http://www.advancedclutch.com/produ...ntegra&ayear=1998&aengine=B Series, Hydraulic
 

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ebay is ok as long as you get something that has good reputation such as exedy, clutchmasters, act, centerforce or clutchnet. i would stay away from cheap no name brands.
 

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Heavy-duty clutches are there to hold very high levels of torque (read: not horsepower), so since you won't have a lot more torque than stock I would stick with a clutch that is a little closer to stock than a full-on puck style race clutch. A clutch that grabs harder won't make you any faster unless your current clutch is slipping excessively on launch or under power. You want your clutch to be the weakest point in your driveline... no point in getting a a clutch that can hold 300 or 400lb/ft if you're only making 150, that's just extra drivetrain harshness and abuse, not to mention the pain in the ass of daily driving.

I'm very happy with my Exedy organic race clutch (sprung hub). Cheap, reliable, and doesn't drive that differently from stock, with 32% more clamping force than stock GS-R and 55% more than stock LS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What does that run in price and if i was to look for one what stage would it be. Also what numbers do you guys here think the b will be putting down. What could be some safety measures to protect my tranny from going out. Well thanks if you could put up a link to something that you have that would be cool. Later
 

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Im running an ACT Stage 1 in my LS, and also got a new one for my built GSR motor. My GSR will be making about 200whp, and the stage 1 will be plenty. It handles 243ft/lb of torque. A six puck will be overkill for your application.

I got my ACT off ebay for $333 shipped. Make sure you buy from a reputable dealer, because there are fake ACT's and fake Exedy's on ebay, so be careful. If it seems too cheap to be true... it probably is.
 

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I got my Exedy - I believe they call it a Stage 2 - from eBay also, but it was through an online shop that I was going to buy it from anyway, they just had it for $10 cheaper on eBay. $250 shipped, although that was over 3 years ago.
 
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