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Hey guys, i took my car to honda dealership and they told me that i need to change my axle boots because it's cracking. But they said the total cost would be around 350-400 bucks...so i said "HELL NAW" and left. lol. anyways, how much do u guys think it would cost to change both front axles and also, how do we know when we should change it before it stop the car from moving, and messes up the transmission?
 

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change your axels before you hear a clicking sound when you turn-if you hear a clicking sound, then you have to replace your axels-but 350-400 sounds about right for replacing both axels and boots-
 

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axle = $50-75 each ($120, i think, from autozone and lifetime warranty)

difficulty to do on your own (1-10, 10 being the hardest): 5.5

edit: oh yeah, and i think you should change it asap.
 

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Bowie4583 said:
Hey guys, i took my car to honda dealership and they told me that i need to change my axle boots because it's cracking. But they said the total cost would be around 350-400 bucks...
You said they want to change your axle BOOTS for 350? If the dealer wants to charge you 350 to change the boots, the best thing to do is to ask them how much butane they've been huffing.
I had to get my right front CV replaced about two months or so ago and it cost about 180 at a local shop. I suppose that changing both axles would be around 350 or 400. You'll know when to change those bitches when they start to click as you turn corners. The clicking starts soft, and then gets louder and louder until the axle breaks and transmission fluid is leaking everywhere and then you have problems. If it clicks only when you turn left, your right axle is shitted. And vice versa for the left axle. Once they start clicking, you don't want to punch the accellerator or speed up around turns. That just puts stress on an already fucked up axle. I drove on my clicking axle for about 600 miles. The whole time I babied it and for real thought the shit was gonna come flying out from underneath the car. It sucked.
 

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I got mine for $39.99 at NAPA because I requested a discount for my friend's shop. Regular price is $59.99. It's not hard at all, you just have to use an impact gun to loosen the screw in center of your rotor. After that, unhook the wishbone and bang your rotor from the support. You'll know it when you look at it. Pry axel out. Comes in oposite way. Not that hard if you've seen it done before or have a buddy who's done it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanx guys for the informative feedback, i think i'm gonna try to change it myself, and then bring it to a shop after i fucked it up...lol. at least its worth a try. oh yeah, dont hear clicking sounds yet, but it seems that there's more vibraritory noise when i drive on the highway moreso than usual. It sounds as if something is misalign or lose...i'm thinking it's the axle goin bad, or maybe it something entirely different.
 

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i hope they meant change both the AXLES for 350 not just the boots. if the boots are torn its more than likely the grease has all fallen out and dirty, debris, and other shit is caked on in the axles. better to replace them all together then repack them w/ grease and new boots when they are already fucked up, 'contaminated' w/ dirt and shit which will cause they to get shot quickly down the road. while your at it you should make sure your bushings are in check also.

you dont want this...
 

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Yeah definitely try it out if you have some basic wrench knowledge....autozone sells remanufactured axles for like 130, and you could probably get them for about 60 or so with a core charge. I've heard quite a mixed bag about autozone's reman.'d axles though...some have had the best of luck with them, some have gone through over 10 and still have yet to find one that doesn't vibrate. Luck of the draw I guess.


It's really not a difficult process at all, just need the axle nut, your typical array of 12mm-17mm sockets, and some extra cotter pins (just in case the stock ones break) and a nice long good and sturdy breaker bar. I'm going to be replacing my front left axle pretty soon here, as I've been riding on a deeply torn boot for about 4 months now. No clicking yet, so I want to get at it as soon as possible.

Good luck.
 

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with our accords, there's really no telling how long they last. A lot has to do with whether you're riding at stock height or dropped though, as that will put more stress on your suspention components. Also, hitting a large bump or pothole at a high speed won't help either : /

But typically our accord axles/cv boots are weak and are very prone to breakage. I've already had my two fronts replaced when I first bought the car and here 3 years later the front left is pretty much toast.
 

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ninjacookies said:
Yeah definitely try it out if you have some basic wrench knowledge....autozone sells remanufactured axles for like 130, and you could probably get them for about 60 or so with a core charge. I've heard quite a mixed bag about autozone's reman.'d axles though...some have had the best of luck with them, some have gone through over 10 and still have yet to find one that doesn't vibrate. Luck of the draw I guess.


It's really not a difficult process at all, just need the axle nut, your typical array of 12mm-17mm sockets, and some extra cotter pins (just in case the stock ones break) and a nice long good and sturdy breaker bar. I'm going to be replacing my front left axle pretty soon here, as I've been riding on a deeply torn boot for about 4 months now. No clicking yet, so I want to get at it as soon as possible.

Good luck.
definately true about the breaker bar-i bent a 1/2" drive breaker bar trying to get that 34mm socket that holds the rotor in place-i had to go to using a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 4ft pipe on the end to get that nut loose-it still wasnt too easy-that was probably the hardest part of the job though-everything else is pretty straight foward-
 

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yep, definitely...you want around a 4 or 5 foot breaker bar to get the job done or else you're gonna be losing some breaker bars in the process lol


and yes, if you're hearing clicking when you turn then your axle is in need of replacement...that means your cv boot has pretty much leaked out and depleted its fluids

You'll probably want to get that done pretty soon.
 

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VTECFREAK said:
Shit..just another thing to push back my rear disc conv. Is Autozone going to be my best bet to get decent axles.
for the money, and for the warranty, yeah, it's the best place to go :tu:
 

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VTECFREAK said:
Shit..just another thing to push back my rear disc conv. Is Autozone going to be my best bet to get decent axles.
btw-you can rent a slide hammer and a spider at qutozone for free-(i think you need like a $35 deposit) which you need anyway to get your rotors off-
 

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broke a breaker bar????

Uhm...that bolt is bent on the lip...that prevents it from unscrewing on it's own...

Me and my buddy just replaced his pass. side axle yesterday...no impacts, no breaker bars...just an 18" breaker, 1/2" drive 33-34mm socket...he actually nearly fell over cause he was expecting the nut to be on super tight...one GOOD tug and it comes off...you do of course have to use a screwdriver and hammer to un-bend the lip.

Now...one word of advice...have an impact chisel or something handy to ben the lip on your new bolt...a screwdriver/crowbar and big assed hammer don't really do the trick. It can be done...but you need a big assed hammer and a good sized screwdriver...or else you just cut into the lip and don't bend it.

I'm about to head to autozone and get both my cv axles...halfshafts...whatever the hell...gonna run me about 59.?? each. THen install and write in here how it went.

Honda dealership $450 for one...brand new...199.?? rebuilt...3 yr waranty..autozone...224.98...lifetime warranty...yes I think I found the better deal.

I would really rather have the new honda ones or the rebuilt ones but for the money...I shouldn't have to buy axles again...just take these in and say...warranty...give me new ones...HA HA HA.
 

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Someone said that axles will go shitty if you hit bumps alot or are lowered. I'm no axle expert or anything, but as long as you're not rallying at Corsica, bumps aren't gonna be what really works your axles. Unfortunately for some, dragging and street racing is what really tears 'em up. Think about the load and torque your axle is under when you go from a complete stop, at high idle, to dropping that bitch and into full acceleration.
 

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VTECFREAK said:
How much is it going to cost you to do everything? I think I'm going to have to do this in the very near future.
including labor? maybe around $350-400....if you don't return a core.....about $100 less if you return the cores.

if you do it yourself, maybe around $240 without returning cores and $120 if you do....

this is if you are doing both axles.
 
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