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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 97 GSR with 70k miles and the basic bolt-ons (i/h/e).


When my car just hit 60k miles I took it to a shop (Honda/Acura Connection) to do a tune-up. They changed all the fluids and did a valve adjustment.

About 2k miles after the tune-up my oil indicatior light lit up. I checked the dipstick and found NO OIL. I filled the engine with a
quart of 5-30w oil and drove it til my next oil change.

At 63k miles I replaced the filter and oil. About 2k miles after that,
same thing. Oil light lit up and NO OIL on the dipstick.

I noticed that I have some white smoke out of the exhaust during the morning. After the engine is warmed up, no smoke what so ever. My butt dyno can't really tell if Im losing any power.

Could it be the rings? vavles? I did a compression test last week and here are the numbers:

cyl#4: 170 psi
cyl#3: 195 psi
cyl#2: 182 psi
cyl#1: 190 psi



I have the Helms manual but I can't find the spec on the compression psi.


Would anyone happen to know it? What about the engine? Toast?
 

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Standard cylinder compression for a B18C engine is 270psi
Minimum is 140psi
Maximum variation between cylinders is 28psi.

How much oil do you go through between oil changes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the post.

Im going through about half a quart between oil change.


I took my car back to the shop that did the tune up and they said I might have possible damage to the rings. They cant do anything unless they dismantle the entire engine.

They also told me to switch to a thicker weight of oil like 20-50.


I am now at 10-30w oil. Im trying to save my $$$ to have my engine inspected. How much in parts and labor would it be to replace the valve guides? or any related part?
 

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I just had to have my piston rings replaced because I was burning almost 3 quarts in between oil changes. When I got my compression test done it was at 100 psi initial and then leveled at 140 per cylinder. After getting my rings replaced you can feel the power difference as well as better fuel milage and obviously I'm no longer burning oil. Your engine is a very volatile environment and if the ideal conditions aren't taking place very bad things can happen. I would definitely recommend getting your engine looked at. If your oil light comes on, you are probably trying to hit Vtec and obviously there isn't enough oil pressure so the Vtec solenoid triggers the low oil light. I'm lucky I didn't do any other damage besides the rings, but if you continue to drive with low oil levels you are just making it worse in the long run.

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the post

So far I cant really tell if I am losing power. If I had some ring damage wouldent I be smoking big time?

All I have is a lil' white smoke in the morning and thats it.
I started to notice that my back bumper was getting black also.


I guess since I switched to a little bit thicker weight, not that much oil is burning now.


Anyhow, how much would it be labor and parts wise to replace rings? valve guides? and stuff like dat...
 

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Yeah, the compression numbers seems kind of low. The compression numbers for a GSR motor with your mileage are in the 200-220 range. Did you do the compression test when the motor is warm? This greatly affects the results. Also, how are do you drive your car? More redlining = more oil burning.

Your cyl. 4 has a large variance compared to rest of the cylinders' psi, so that's not good. Thicker oil helps, but it's only a temporary fix, so you'll have to rebuild your motor soon anyway.

If your valve guides are shot, you'll see oil smoke when you first start up your car in the morning (cold motor), and/or when you decelerate in gear. If you see oil smoke while you accelerate, then your rings are shot.

And don't get confused between white smoke, black smoke, and blue smoke. White smoke usually means that you are burning coolant (with a sweet candy-like smell) or burning oil (synthetic motor oil). Black smoke means you are running too rich, and blue smoke means you are burning oil (conventional oil).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah, all I have is smoke in the morning during warm up.


I guess I really have to stare at the smoke but it sure looks white...or maybe thats just condesation cause of the morning.

I warmed up the car before I did the compression test.

During the turning over of the car, do you or do not STEP ON THE GAS?

I didnt but was wondering if I had too.
 

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If it's oil/coolant smoke, you can tell it apart from normal condensation smoke. The oil/coolant smoke is much thicker/denser than condensation smoke.

No, you shouldn't have to press on the gas when you start the car. Our cars have mulit-port fuel injection system, which automatically sprays fuel when you start up the car, unlike carbs where you have to give it gas to crank up the car.
 

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At the Acura Dealer that I use it came to around $1700 - 1900 for parts and labor. Took them a day to do and then its another 2-3k miles to break in the rings.
 

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Damn that's a lot of money. I asked a shop in my area about labor costs to build up my block and they said it is about 500 bucks in labor to do the whole thing. This involves, rods, pistons, and rings. I have to pay for the parts but rings aren't that expensive.

If you take your car to a trained mechanic, and not an Acura dealership, you will save a lot of money.

You may not have felt a loss of power because it may have deteriorated slowly over time.
 

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deMad10, which shop is this and could you tell me their phone #/address?? I live in Edmonds and am looking for good place to get B16A or ITR pistons and Crower cams put in. Are they a performance-type place or not? Also it's good to know a back up to good ol' Acura of Lynnwood. Thanks, bud!
 

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Oh, dang, thought it was in the state. Oh well, maybe I will make the trip. Do you know of any other good shops maybe closer to home? Thanks!
 

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My 92 GS-R with 120,000km had 205-205-204-205.

With 180,00km it was 185-190-195-185.

See sig :)

I'd try a leak down test, that will tell a good mechanic what's causing the loss of pressure.
 

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White98LS said:
Oh, dang, thought it was in the state. Oh well, maybe I will make the trip. Do you know of any other good shops maybe closer to home? Thanks!
Well right now I am in Pullman at WSU. In the summer I live in the Vancouver area so portland is just like 15 minutes away.
 

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Oh, cool well thanks for the info anyway.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for the post guys...

When I have enough money saved up I'll go ahead and have a mechanic dismantle the engine.





For the time being, I will be forced to drive it.



I'll save some $$$ for some aftermarket parts...
 
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