so anyone else experience this? I been chatting with moss motors and they really havent been much help. I plan to go get a dyno run and see what my A/F ratio looks like cuz I suspect I am running rich. Stock JR FPR with the fixed 5:1 rising rate has been known to run extremely rich on many applications. A car running rich is safe, but performance isnt exactly ideal. Let me get your take on this.
What The Feezy?! Lack of power at high rpms???
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Hey man! Is it acting up in the cold weather?? Do you have the MSD 6BTM or any other MSD unit that uses the "Soft Touch Rev Limiter?" If you do have the module plugged in, TAKE THE FREAKEN THING OUT!" That stupid module is whats causing your car to act up in the cold weather! neouser found this out when we both realized that both our cars were acting up. neouser's car is a non-VTEC and mine is a VTEC engine and it was happening in both engines.
The module solved the problems though. I mean if you are having problems in boost at some point in your RPM band.
Check this thread out by me: http://www.hondavision.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=611
The module solved the problems though. I mean if you are having problems in boost at some point in your RPM band.
Check this thread out by me: http://www.hondavision.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=611
no...
thats not it cuz the msd has no rev limiter or anything, its just there to add extra spark and it happens all the time. there is just less power when i floor it, as opposed to when i am just tapping the gas or at less than full throttle.
what mods do you have now? its not just me, my friend took it for a ride and felt it too... maybe my header is too restrictive? 4-1 is far from ideal for s/c applications. It just feels like there is some restriction, not pulling as hard up high, or something. I'll be going out to do a dyno tomorrow and that should narrow it down a bit.
thats not it cuz the msd has no rev limiter or anything, its just there to add extra spark and it happens all the time. there is just less power when i floor it, as opposed to when i am just tapping the gas or at less than full throttle.
what mods do you have now? its not just me, my friend took it for a ride and felt it too... maybe my header is too restrictive? 4-1 is far from ideal for s/c applications. It just feels like there is some restriction, not pulling as hard up high, or something. I'll be going out to do a dyno tomorrow and that should narrow it down a bit.
I have the rev limiter on mine. Your MSD probablyy doesn't have that feature but mine does and that little module was both neo's and my problem. Once that module was taken out, it ran normal again.
I went to MSD's website and it says that only the ^AL and the 6BTM has those modules so I guess it really depends on which model MSD you have. The 6A and the 6T doesn't have them.
If you want to know what I'm talking about go to http://www.msdignition.com/ and go to the automotive link and then the RPM Accessories Link and those little while two pined modules are what I'm talking about. I wish I could post up some pictures.
I went to MSD's website and it says that only the ^AL and the 6BTM has those modules so I guess it really depends on which model MSD you have. The 6A and the 6T doesn't have them.
If you want to know what I'm talking about go to http://www.msdignition.com/ and go to the automotive link and then the RPM Accessories Link and those little while two pined modules are what I'm talking about. I wish I could post up some pictures.
well thanks for trying...
i didnt get the BTM cuz i didn't need to retard timing. I'm running slightly over stock timing and I am fine. As far as retarding timing, all it takes is a wrench and turning the distributor back a lil bit.
i didnt get the BTM cuz i didn't need to retard timing. I'm running slightly over stock timing and I am fine. As far as retarding timing, all it takes is a wrench and turning the distributor back a lil bit.
Well yeah retarding and advancing the timing is easy but the reasons for getting the BTM was for security or insurance reasons. Detonation is bad for your engine if you dan't have devices to prevent it.
So what you are saying is that you are running about 18 degrees BTDC right? Thats slightly more than stock and you don't have any detonation problems? No knocking or pinging?
So what you are saying is that you are running about 18 degrees BTDC right? Thats slightly more than stock and you don't have any detonation problems? No knocking or pinging?
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What 4-1 header do you have? If it's a Kamikazi, then you should have no trouble with it. If it's a DC Sports or other brand of 4-1, get rid of it.
Is this something that you've been noticiing for a long time or is it pretty recent? Do you have a V-AFC? If you have the V-AFC, you can probably lean it out a bit in the high end to see if that helps. What about an A/F gauge, do you have one of those? Take a run in 1st or 2nd and watch only the A/F gauge and tell me if it goes more green in the higher RPMS. What is your fuel pressure set at?
I'm sure there is something I can do to help.
Is this something that you've been noticiing for a long time or is it pretty recent? Do you have a V-AFC? If you have the V-AFC, you can probably lean it out a bit in the high end to see if that helps. What about an A/F gauge, do you have one of those? Take a run in 1st or 2nd and watch only the A/F gauge and tell me if it goes more green in the higher RPMS. What is your fuel pressure set at?
I'm sure there is something I can do to help.
well right now i am at 15.5 degrees timing, last checked, and NO PINGING, KNOCKING OR DETONATION. Keep in mind I am non-vtec. As far as a V-AFC, I dont have VTEC so I was thinkin about an S-AFC... assuming I am running rich. I dont have guage cuz they aren't the most accurate. Instead I will be going to get a dyno today w/ an A/F meter... this should tell me if I need to shell out $250 for a S-AFC. (i got a hook up) I have noticed this for a while, but I haven't had any use for high rpms recently. (havent raced for a while) So, I just put it off. My fuel pressure is what the stock JR FPR sets it at. I have no guages, but plan to once I get into tuning my A/F ratios.
And yeah, its a DC... got it way back in the day when there was only DC and like two others... no kamikazi.
And yeah, its a DC... got it way back in the day when there was only DC and like two others... no kamikazi.
You know one very good gauge to get is a fuel pressure guage. Its easy and simple to install. You should get that and turn down your fuel a little. If its at JRSC specs, then I'm guessing you're at 60psi like I was and my low end sucked as hell.
Anyways, I thought you said you were a little over stock timing? Wouldn't that mean like 18 degrees? Or is 18 degrees under stock timing? Your 15.5 degrees should be a little under stock right? someone set me straight on this.
Anyways, I thought you said you were a little over stock timing? Wouldn't that mean like 18 degrees? Or is 18 degrees under stock timing? Your 15.5 degrees should be a little under stock right? someone set me straight on this.
The JR FPR is adjustable? I tried adjusting it before and it didn't work so well... couldn't turn the damn screw.
Anyways, I am pretty sure stock timing on the integra LS is 15... but I may be wrong.
Yeah, I'll look into a fuel pressure guage, also... but my low end is fine, actually! My top end is where it sucks ass.
Anyways, I am pretty sure stock timing on the integra LS is 15... but I may be wrong.
Yeah, I'll look into a fuel pressure guage, also... but my low end is fine, actually! My top end is where it sucks ass.
Hum? I though stock timing was 16. It's also 16 on my civic too.
And yeah the JR is adjustable. You have to loosen the nut at the end before you can actually adjust it though. I used one of the Hex Wrench (whats another name for it, Allen Wrench?) to turn mines. But anyways, its easy and you can do it by yourself.
And yeah the JR is adjustable. You have to loosen the nut at the end before you can actually adjust it though. I used one of the Hex Wrench (whats another name for it, Allen Wrench?) to turn mines. But anyways, its easy and you can do it by yourself.
plugs helped... no dyno yet... no guages either...
what a day! had to go to 3 different places to get the right plugs! went to two places for a dyno... 1 didnt have the a/f meter working, the other i couldn't even find the place!!! and to top it off, no guages anywhere!
Arent I lucky?
what a day! had to go to 3 different places to get the right plugs! went to two places for a dyno... 1 didnt have the a/f meter working, the other i couldn't even find the place!!! and to top it off, no guages anywhere!
Arent I lucky?
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get your gauges online. Uhm, if you're at all interested in autometer gauges (some people think they are nothing but crap) you should be able to get some good deals from either www.groupbuycenter.com or by going to www.importhookup.com and clicking on the "carparts coupon" to get some % off of www.carparts.com (which sells quite a selection of autometer gauges). By next week, you could have gauges installed and working. Oh, www.summitracing.com is another good place to get gauges.
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It's up to you. If you want to increase the rev limit, certain MSD units will allow you to do that. I think there is also an MSD that will retard your timing per PSI of boost. However, I'm still running a stock ignition and have no plans to upgrade it. Just gap your plugs a bit smaller than stock spec so that the denser air/fuel mixture in your cylinders can ignite easier. Neo used to say .035 or around there.
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