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Anyone have any other ideas why my 91 civic hatch is still over heating. It has a new radiator, thermostat, and water pump, and hoses checks ok but its still over heating. When I replaced the water pump it stopped for about 2 months now its back and I noticed that my coolant is very low. When I put more coolant in it goes back to normal but I don't see a leak anywhere. Any Suggestions?
 

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could be a blown head gasket, take it to a shop and have them run a block tester on it
 

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Yup check for symptoms of a blown headgasket...

And make sure you don't have any air in your coolant system.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
well I know the symptoms of a blown head gasket and I've checked the oil and I don't have any white smoke. I have noticed that whenever I tried to refill the coolant sometimes it says its full then it bubbles then I have to keep filling until its done.
 

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92h23vtec said:
well I know the symptoms of a blown head gasket and I've checked the oil and I don't have any white smoke. I have noticed that whenever I tried to refill the coolant sometimes it says its full then it bubbles then I have to keep filling until its done.
then you have air in the system causing it to overheat. bleed it and come back to us
 

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MIght be

92h23vtec said:
Anyone have any other ideas why my 91 civic hatch is still over heating. It has a new radiator, thermostat, and water pump, and hoses checks ok but its still over heating. When I replaced the water pump it stopped for about 2 months now its back and I noticed that my coolant is very low. When I put more coolant in it goes back to normal but I don't see a leak anywhere. Any Suggestions?

Temp sensor might need replacing..which can lead to overheating...also leading to blown head gasket
 

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try this...leave the radiator cap off. turn heater on full blast. once it reaches operating temp..keep the engine reved up for a couple mins den put the cap back on. this should get rid of the air pocket u have
 

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NationsMostWanted said:
try this...leave the radiator cap off. turn heater on full blast. once it reaches operating temp..keep the engine reved up for a couple mins den put the cap back on. this should get rid of the air pocket u have
if you do this, watch out, it will splatter out, if there are bubbles in it. don't get burned
 

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98civcEK said:
if you do this, watch out, it will splatter out, if there are bubbles in it. don't get burned
no rev it till it puddles out.

run the heater and rev it up till the heater is nice and hot. den a few quick revs and cap it
 

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Blown head gasket, coolant system sensor, fan

92h23vtec said:
Anyone have any other ideas why my 91 civic hatch is still over heating. It has a new radiator, thermostat, and water pump, and hoses checks ok but its still over heating. When I replaced the water pump it stopped for about 2 months now its back and I noticed that my coolant is very low. When I put more coolant in it goes back to normal but I don't see a leak anywhere. Any Suggestions?
Blown head gasket, coolant system sensor, fan not coming on.
Does it always over heat or under certain circumstances such as when it is warmer outside say 45 degrees F and above?

NationsMostWanted said:
try this...leave the radiator cap off. turn heater on full blast. once it reaches operating temp..keep the engine reved up for a couple mins den put the cap back on. this should get rid of the air pocket u have
:bash:
There is a bleeder valve for this very reason.
 

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buzlink said:
Blown head gasket, coolant system sensor, fan not coming on.
Does it always over heat or under certain circumstances such as when it is warmer outside say 45 degrees F and above?

:bash:
There is a bleeder valve for this very reason.
i knoe theres a bleeder valve but i prefer to do it this way.
 

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NationsMostWanted said:
i knoe theres a bleeder valve but i prefer to do it this way.
yup works better,bleder valve isnt on top of the cooling system may leve some bubles in the top part of the syste. This way w/ the cap off all bubles have a chanve to escape.
 

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speedjunky01 said:
yup works better,bleder valve isnt on top of the cooling system may leve some bubles in the top part of the syste. This way w/ the cap off all bubles have a chanve to escape.
well ways to work on a car is done thru experience. many case the correct way might not always be the best way

i have never used thje bleeder valve on the honda before. i always do it my way cept with a pontiac grandam once...somehow i had to have bleeders and my technique to make it work.
 

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...

Let's not forget that head gaskets don't always just let coolant into the cylinders. Sometimes it doesn't even get into the oil passages. Sometimes the gasket will 'push' into the coolant passsage and allow extra cylinder pressure to bleed off into the water jacket. This will usually present itself in bubbles in the radiator, rough looking coolant level(looks wavy) and it will push coolant out of the radiator cap into the overflow bottle. The only way to check for this style of leak is to run a compression test after the engine has been running and it is warm. A leakdown test yeilds more results. Sometimes bad radiator cap causes this sort of issue as well. It doesn't allow the sytem to build up pressure - could just be a leaky hose connection as well, It allows the system to suck air and not leak - hence the overheating.
 

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festivagt said:
Let's not forget that head gaskets don't always just let coolant into the cylinders. Sometimes it doesn't even get into the oil passages. Sometimes the gasket will 'push' into the coolant passsage and allow extra cylinder pressure to bleed off into the water jacket. This will usually present itself in bubbles in the radiator, rough looking coolant level(looks wavy) and it will push coolant out of the radiator cap into the overflow bottle. The only way to check for this style of leak is to run a compression test after the engine has been running and it is warm. A leakdown test yeilds more results. Sometimes bad radiator cap causes this sort of issue as well. It doesn't allow the sytem to build up pressure - could just be a leaky hose connection as well, It allows the system to suck air and not leak - hence the overheating.
a compression test and block test usually works fine in determining a head gasket problem
 
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