I wouldn't even bother running nitrous. Too many horror stories plus to do it right, it would need a lot of work if you want your engine to last. I would rather just go all motor.
what's the max shot of nitrous you can run on the ITR?
was just wondering whats the max shot ... on stock internals on an ITR... havnt bought the car yet but just thinking for the future (2 mths) and dont want to be left behind by MR2's or hybrids
how does the ITR face up to the MR2s and B16 CRX's??
how does the ITR face up to the MR2s and B16 CRX's??
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compression is too high on the ITR right????
dammm..
so what's the best way to go ??? need to keep up with those hybrids n mr2's..
im thinkin toda b specs? and a chromoly flywheel?
but i still need more... its gonna cost me too much $$$
thats why i like nitrous... its really cheap.... and u get alot of BANG for ur buck... (temporarily)..
but hopefully not the bad BANG
so NO NITROUS?????
dammm..
so what's the best way to go ??? need to keep up with those hybrids n mr2's..
im thinkin toda b specs? and a chromoly flywheel?
but i still need more... its gonna cost me too much $$$
thats why i like nitrous... its really cheap.... and u get alot of BANG for ur buck... (temporarily)..
but hopefully not the bad BANG
so NO NITROUS?????
I think you're moving in the wrong direction with this. Why start out at the MAX? My suggestion would be to take one giant step back and decide what you want to accomplish, more specifically than "keeping up with hybrids." Hell, that could just be a skill issue. Next, figure out how you want to get there.
A stock internal Integra Type R can safely handle up a 100hp shot of nitrous. Dry nitrous kits run extremely lean on the ITR's and I wouldn't recommend them. The wet single fogger setups are great but are only good to 75hp, otherwise you'll run into possible distribution problems. A direct port setup is the safest and most reliable way to run nitrous and you can easily run a 80hp to start and like I said the top of the ladder for the stock internals is going to be 100hp. I've been running a 100hp shot direct port setup for the past year without any problems. The previous year I ran a 75hp shot single wet fogger. Hope this helps.
Exactly. ITRs are meant for all motor. Get I/H/E cams, cam gears, and tune it!MugenSi said:Go all motor man !!!
thanks for all ur input....
yeah ... all motor setup sounds good.. since yeah.. ill have that power all the time... but still deciding on a nitrous.. cause i just want to have that insurance when i need it.. cause losing SUCKS!!
so yeah...
100 shot?!?!? holy crap! i didnt think the ITR could handle that much...!! thats sweet..
300hp at a push of a button....mmmmmmmm
yeah ... all motor setup sounds good.. since yeah.. ill have that power all the time... but still deciding on a nitrous.. cause i just want to have that insurance when i need it.. cause losing SUCKS!!
so yeah...
100 shot?!?!? holy crap! i didnt think the ITR could handle that much...!! thats sweet..
300hp at a push of a button....mmmmmmmm
Good luck with that. Sounds well beyond the max to me without a considerable amount of effort. No untuned, unmapped 100 shot kit is going to run very long on your car.Ricepicker said:
100 shot?!?!? holy crap! i didnt think the ITR could handle that much...!! thats sweet..
300hp at a push of a button....mmmmmmmm
to nos or not
itrs are made to be all motor
I run 13.8 with intake and exaust.
itrs are made to be all motor
I run 13.8 with intake and exaust.
what would i need to reach LOW 13's????
going the all motor route...
going the all motor route...
NOS LOVES COMPRESSION, THE MORE THE MERRIER
moving on from that....
If I had an ITR, I would build all motor, tune it, run it @ the track, and then install a direct port NOS system and tune it accordingly. A good tuned NOS system will run you about a thousand bucks after the purchase, install, fuel pump, gauges, and tuning. Oh, and the 100 shot will annialate most aluminum flywheels b/c they are too light... I'm not to crazy about flywheel coming at me through the firewall (destroying the tranny casing and lots of other stuff int he process). I know people running a direct port NOS system, 100 shots, on their ITR's... it's very possible and safe as long as it is tuned correctly.
For flywheels, a lightweight flywheel would be great for you, but not too light. I'd suggest the Exedy chromoly flywheel. www.coximport.com has them in stock. Just ordered mine. The JUN, TODA, FORK (I mean SPOON) flywheels are all made of aluminum. When the aluminum comes in contact with moisture, it is likely to warp. Not necessarily a lot, but it is likely. Warped flywheels often cause starter gears to get chewed up and make for a noisy off balance flywheel. They are all about the same price once you get looking.
Cams... TODA Spec B's, or Spec C's if you want to go all out. I'd suggest C's. No sense in settling for less than the best.
JDM DC Sports 4-1 header should be on your list... SS if you plan to spray NOS in the future.
VAFC needed for cams
That should get you started... and to think, I don't even have an R
moving on from that....
If I had an ITR, I would build all motor, tune it, run it @ the track, and then install a direct port NOS system and tune it accordingly. A good tuned NOS system will run you about a thousand bucks after the purchase, install, fuel pump, gauges, and tuning. Oh, and the 100 shot will annialate most aluminum flywheels b/c they are too light... I'm not to crazy about flywheel coming at me through the firewall (destroying the tranny casing and lots of other stuff int he process). I know people running a direct port NOS system, 100 shots, on their ITR's... it's very possible and safe as long as it is tuned correctly.
For flywheels, a lightweight flywheel would be great for you, but not too light. I'd suggest the Exedy chromoly flywheel. www.coximport.com has them in stock. Just ordered mine. The JUN, TODA, FORK (I mean SPOON) flywheels are all made of aluminum. When the aluminum comes in contact with moisture, it is likely to warp. Not necessarily a lot, but it is likely. Warped flywheels often cause starter gears to get chewed up and make for a noisy off balance flywheel. They are all about the same price once you get looking.
Cams... TODA Spec B's, or Spec C's if you want to go all out. I'd suggest C's. No sense in settling for less than the best.
JDM DC Sports 4-1 header should be on your list... SS if you plan to spray NOS in the future.
VAFC needed for cams
That should get you started... and to think, I don't even have an R
Thinking about it a little more, you should go with the new Holley NOS NOSzles. They seem wild, and Im sure they will work great once tuned, like any other direct port system. go check it out @ www.holley.com and click over to NOS products
so how do we match up to the MR2 turbo ?
and B16 CRX's??
in the 1/4 mile....??
and B16 CRX's??
in the 1/4 mile....??
ohh.. and the RSX type S?
you buy an itr add some nos and you are out 20-25k, buy a 92 hatch, drop a nos or turbo junkie b18b in it, and for under 10 grand you don't have to worry about losing to anything that isn't real wild, and u still got cash to buy ur bitches something pretty
no offense to the itr, i'd sell a kidney to get my hands on a phoenix yellow one, but if we are talkign bang for the buck, i'g with a 92-95 hatch, or a 94+ teg ls.
Hey,
I have the Venom VCN-2000 nitrous system on my R and I am running 80 shot reliably. This is the best system to buy in my opinion. There are three modes: linear, drag, and timed. An extra computer calculates the exact amount of nitrous going into the car and turns on the injectors for a second duty cycle so your engine gets the exact amount of fuel it needs, and if there is not enough fuel to meet your nitrous setting or there is not enough nitrous pressure the system will automatically shut down.
Price is about 1300 for the entire system...took me about 30 min to install the entire thing
I have run as high as 130 shot durning testing and pulled the plugs right after the full throttle run...found out I was running rich.
good system
I have the Venom VCN-2000 nitrous system on my R and I am running 80 shot reliably. This is the best system to buy in my opinion. There are three modes: linear, drag, and timed. An extra computer calculates the exact amount of nitrous going into the car and turns on the injectors for a second duty cycle so your engine gets the exact amount of fuel it needs, and if there is not enough fuel to meet your nitrous setting or there is not enough nitrous pressure the system will automatically shut down.
Price is about 1300 for the entire system...took me about 30 min to install the entire thing
I have run as high as 130 shot durning testing and pulled the plugs right after the full throttle run...found out I was running rich.
good system
dude nos works great for this car.
mugen power has been pushing 100shot for a while now as well as many other guys . i had 85 shot on mine for while and then jumped down to 60. . . now im stepping back up again cuz its not enough. just dont be an idiot and blow your motor, as long as you have common sense and all the right equipment , you will be fine for a long , long , long time .
btw my car goes 13.77 all motor and then a bottle for just in case. so you can have the best of both worlds. thats why this car is soo great.
mugen power has been pushing 100shot for a while now as well as many other guys . i had 85 shot on mine for while and then jumped down to 60. . . now im stepping back up again cuz its not enough. just dont be an idiot and blow your motor, as long as you have common sense and all the right equipment , you will be fine for a long , long , long time .
btw my car goes 13.77 all motor and then a bottle for just in case. so you can have the best of both worlds. thats why this car is soo great.
what usually happens that causes your engine to blow when using nitrous???
would it be because the engine wouldnt be able to keep up with the high revs nitrous would introduce?? (would need stiffer valve springs to bring up redline??)
or would it be because of an improper mixture of fuel and nitrous???
or does it have something to do with combustion???
where's the best area to use nitrous... ?? around 2K-5K or 4K-8K?
or somewhere else or does it really matter???
would it be because the engine wouldnt be able to keep up with the high revs nitrous would introduce?? (would need stiffer valve springs to bring up redline??)
or would it be because of an improper mixture of fuel and nitrous???
or does it have something to do with combustion???
where's the best area to use nitrous... ?? around 2K-5K or 4K-8K?
or somewhere else or does it really matter???
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
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