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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just checked the eye level on my battery yesterday and it is quite dark. I think i might need to replace it soon, it's been three years. I have a small system in my car so i might upgrade to a Optima Yellow top. Any of you have this battery for your car? Did it fit perfectly into the stock location? Also which model did you get?

thanks let me know
 

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hey guys what is the diff from the optima red cap, yellow cap and blue cap. i have 2 pheonix gold amps and 2 compressors for my cylinders. i need to replace my battery so i dont have to turn on the car whenever the compressors go on just incase. whats better and what do u guys recommend?
 

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I replaced mine at 3200miles about 4 months old. It couldn't even hold the charge above 11volts and was killing my alternator which consequently died about a month later. Now I use an optima blue top and a 180amp alternator and no problems since :)

I can't remember the name of that damn place I bought it from. Down on alum rock across the street from the cemetary where the jack in the crack is. Next to california wheels(the place with all 20"ers and higher in the window)

*edit* Bill's Auto. Maurice used to frequent there too. just ask him about V6MoMoney in there and they'll hook you up :)
 

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I think it was $180 for the battery, which was better than the $300 the dealer wanted to replace the stock pile of crap.

I got the alternator from http://www.4alterstart.com/ he sells on ebay and I picked it up for $160 plus like $15 shipping.

http://www.4alterstart.com/pages/st...p://www.4alterstart.com/highoutputalternators

he has it here for $170

and here's the spiel about the alternator
This alternator is made to run stereo cars, CB hi watt amps, winches, light bars, spotlights, etc. It has a tough diode package with 50 amp 200-volt diodes and an extra-heavy-duty voltage regulator and improved bearings by NTN. It's twice the alternator at only 25% additional cost. The cs130d unit includes an internal cooling fan and modern design. A drop in unit requires no modification to the bracket system. A four-gauge battery power cable is recommended to replace the existing battery wire to the back of the alternator. Note there is no difference between the 180 amp alternator and your factory 105A unit. This alternator will provide 85 amps at 800 engine rpm and 180 amps at 1800 engine rpm. This unit is factory load tested and ready to install. Four-foot cable ($25.00) is available.



and I live kind of by san jo state in the old victorians..
 

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naw sound systems was the place I bought my amps, deck and L7's from, and did the shittiest install I've ever seen on the rest of my stuff. I ripped every single thing out that they did and reinstalled it :) I edited, it was bills auto. good little place. real tiny but they have lots of nifty stuff, that's where I got my shifters, grill screen, blue intake rubber, battery and all kinds of other toys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
hey did you install the alternator yourself? If so how difficult was it to get to?

i have a friend who just bought 2 12 L7's also, he's lookin for a strong enough amp to power them. Tight set up illusion.

peace




SJSU

Vestax

do you go to State also? if so what kind of car do you have?
 

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If I didn't already have the amp I would have gotten an MMATS D300HC or D200HC(same rating just one if for 2 ohm one if for 1 ohm, both 1200x1) If he doesn't have the money I'd look into a fosgate DB1500.1 or a 1000.1, or the new kicker KX1200.1. I have the DX700 and it pumps them pretty good, but I don't think it's pushing them to their potential.

I had mike at south valley honda on monterey do it, thats where I take my car for all of it's maintenance, great prices(won't try to gouge you), they know their shit, and since they're authorized honda repair center they can do the scheduled tuneups and save you some money and still keep your warranty. I think it took them about 20 minutes to install the alternator, but I was having a bunch of other stuff done at the same time so I'm not sure how much he charged me, probably lik $35-40
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks for the info Illusion, i think im gonna get the battery first before i decide on the alternator. So why did you pick the blue and not yellow?

Vestax any mods on your car?

Damn you guys got killer response times, you must be on the boards right now. 2:39 p.m.

PEace


gotta get to class
 

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Hehe, I just surf the forum at one time and read, then check often to see if anybody replied. What's your major at state?

Currently, the only mods right now is car audio. You can check it out in my profile or click on the link.
 

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the blue has extra terminals on it. that's the only difference. Plus I didn't want a yellow theme going on in my car. I was going for blue.

cuz I went from this



to this


to this


:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
illusion that is a sick looking setup. I am thinking about getting rid of my subs (2 JL 12 W6) and gettin 1 ID MAX. I wanna switch to one sub to try to save some trunk space. Did you do all the custom work yourself?
How much did you pay for the IDMAX? did you get it online or somewhere in the bay?
also are the Kick Pods custom?

BTW

im a CompE major , might be switching though

PEACE
 

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no IDMAX for me, just a pair of L7's(well they call them L5's now)

yeah I did all of the work myself. got the wood glue and screws from OSH, and got the carpet from teh place on the corner of king and Alum Rock where the radiator shop is.

took me about 3 weekends to get it to where I was happy. I bought my amps, deck, and subs from Sound Systems, and I got my CDT stuff from TheZeb.com and the rest of it from ebay.





CE is some good stuff, stick with it. good money to be had. get your CE then all of the mickeysoft certifications and you're golden. I'm a twin degree weenie, one in CS and one in EE. I'll go for my MBA if I can ever get teh time. I almost started last year, but with cutbacks at work I got real busy(less people = more work for the ones left) so I had to forget about it for now.
 
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