which intake setup is better for superchargers?
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i have an injen short arm intake now. i don't care to spend another $200+ for a new one. maybe i can fabricate something so i can have a CAI. and if i dont' like it, i can always remove it. :vpleased:4doorGSR said:3" diameter is best for better flow.
CAI is better for colder air.
best of both worlds is the INJEN CAI which is 3" in diameter.
the best price i've found is $225 on GroupBuy shipped to my door. if anyone knows of a better price then HOOK IT UP
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Actually I've heard conflicting reports...
CAI = cold air which is good, BUT it requires more work for the blower to suck in
Short Ram = hot air which is bad, BUT it doesn't require the blower to work as hard
CAI = cold air which is good, BUT it requires more work for the blower to suck in
Short Ram = hot air which is bad, BUT it doesn't require the blower to work as hard
del
do what some of the OG SHO members did and do a custom home made CAI.
use your injen short ram and put back your stock air box connect your injen to the opening of the air box. on the bottom end of the box run drier hose from any hardware store. from there you can run a ram air from the front air dam or just cold air from behind the turn signal.
IMO the 3"CAI is better. cold air makes it safer under boost because it keeps the temps down and how much harder is it to suck air from a regular straw then from the same straw with 1/2 cut off.
do what some of the OG SHO members did and do a custom home made CAI.
use your injen short ram and put back your stock air box connect your injen to the opening of the air box. on the bottom end of the box run drier hose from any hardware store. from there you can run a ram air from the front air dam or just cold air from behind the turn signal.
IMO the 3"CAI is better. cold air makes it safer under boost because it keeps the temps down and how much harder is it to suck air from a regular straw then from the same straw with 1/2 cut off.
won't the air just get compressed and heated anyway with the charger? and many people have strongly suggested to stay away from water injection. i dont' know of any way of cooling the air with this type of charger. i'm thinkin of keepin the short arm but get it thermo-powder coated somewhere. i don't know. thanks for all the suggestions.
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Personally, I can tell a night and day difference between a short ram and a CAI. You've already got the Injen Short Ram, so get the Cold Air Extension from Injen at www.overboost.com. I think I paid something like $65 shipped, maybe a bit less for the CAE. I found the injen short ram on Ebay for about $70.
You won't have to worry about water unless you actually drive THRU puddles. I've driven behind lots of cars in rush hour while it's raining very hard and everyone is splashing water up, and there is NO water entering the engine, even under full boost. Not to mention my intake temps AFTER the JRSC (on the manifold) are at least 70 * cooler than the top of the engine itself, AT LEAST and that's even during the hottest day of summer, even after a LOT of continuous boosting. Even a hondata gasket would help, and I only have a stock one. And yes, if you put cold air through the JRSC, it will automatically heat it up from compressing it, but not NEARLY as much as you'd think. If the ambient temp outside is 50*, and I'm boosting a LOT, I can still feel coldness on the whole intake piping tract, into the s-pipe it gets a bit warmer, and aft of the blower (on the manifold), it's warmer still, but you can put your hand on it and not burn yourself at all. It's only luke warm to the touch.
For what it's worth, I don't believe that the JRSC has much more trouble pulling cold air from the bumper than it does using a short ram... it's only about 2-3 feet longer. Also, it is my assumption that it is easier to start going from a stop with a CAI than it is from a custom cold air box, simply because the length of sucking through piping is less with a CAI than it is with a custom cold air box. A custom cold air box will add another 3-5 feet over and above a CAI.
You won't have to worry about water unless you actually drive THRU puddles. I've driven behind lots of cars in rush hour while it's raining very hard and everyone is splashing water up, and there is NO water entering the engine, even under full boost. Not to mention my intake temps AFTER the JRSC (on the manifold) are at least 70 * cooler than the top of the engine itself, AT LEAST and that's even during the hottest day of summer, even after a LOT of continuous boosting. Even a hondata gasket would help, and I only have a stock one. And yes, if you put cold air through the JRSC, it will automatically heat it up from compressing it, but not NEARLY as much as you'd think. If the ambient temp outside is 50*, and I'm boosting a LOT, I can still feel coldness on the whole intake piping tract, into the s-pipe it gets a bit warmer, and aft of the blower (on the manifold), it's warmer still, but you can put your hand on it and not burn yourself at all. It's only luke warm to the touch.
For what it's worth, I don't believe that the JRSC has much more trouble pulling cold air from the bumper than it does using a short ram... it's only about 2-3 feet longer. Also, it is my assumption that it is easier to start going from a stop with a CAI than it is from a custom cold air box, simply because the length of sucking through piping is less with a CAI than it is with a custom cold air box. A custom cold air box will add another 3-5 feet over and above a CAI.
One more thing: Hotter air increases the likelihood of detonations. I would be a lot more concerned about detonation than I would be about a couple extra feet of piping, and some people have complained about detonations on their civics after installing a JRSC. The air inside an engine bay is already pretty hot, and that means less of it will fit in a given volume, so you might actually be getting a lower total charge of air by using a "hot air" intake. I don't know for sure though.[]3LuE []_udE said:
The best solution is probably an ice box with a "bypass valve" or whatever that thing is that switches to engine bay air if any water is present in the lower portion of the CAI. I'm pretty sure AEM makes one of these. It operates by pressure.
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102 Posts
Solution:
Nitrous Express sells an "n-tercoller". cools the air to release power... check it out:
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/new_products.htm
Nitrous Express sells an "n-tercoller". cools the air to release power... check it out:
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/new_products.htm
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2,529 Posts
yes, but you can you explain in more detail how it works other than what's given on the page which is:
For supercharged or turbo
applications where nitrous
is not an option, NX offers
another alternative. Tne
"N-tercooler". Using either
nitrous or CO2, this unit can
reduce air inlet temperatures
dramatically. In a recent dyno
test a turbocharged Honda
equipped with an NX
"N-tercooler", increased its
baseline by an astonishing 52
HP!
For supercharged or turbo
applications where nitrous
is not an option, NX offers
another alternative. Tne
"N-tercooler". Using either
nitrous or CO2, this unit can
reduce air inlet temperatures
dramatically. In a recent dyno
test a turbocharged Honda
equipped with an NX
"N-tercooler", increased its
baseline by an astonishing 52
HP!
If there is sufficient pressure drop between the icebox and the valve, it will switch to breathing engine bay air through a small foam filter that sits on the outside of the valve. This is to prevent hydrolock. Some magazine had an AEM bypass valve and CAI on an NSX, and they fitted all of this to a length of clear plastic piping, which they dunked into a small tank of water. They revved the NSX's engine up real good, but no matter what, the water never went anywhere near the valve.sak said:
There may be a link to the article on AEM's site.
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89 Posts
"generically"..... doesn't everyone use that word when we talk about intakes?? :laff:Hunsvotti said:I was using the term "ice box" generically... sheesh...
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