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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I decided to get a new clutch and flywheel since I had to replace the rear oil seal. So I wanted to do a review for anyone interested in the future about doing the clutch on a 5th gen accord.

First off I'm gonna write up the procedure.

Remove the intake. Remove the starter. It is preferable to remove the sensors on the head...well cuz i broke one thats why I say that (Coolant Tempurature Sensor to be exact) Remove the battery and disconnect all ground wires from the chassis and transmission. Disconnect the VSS and the Backup light. Disconnect the hydraulic clutch line from the slave cylinder and remove slave cylinder to make it easier to remove tranny.
Remove wheels and life car. Remove the lower control arm nut from the steering knuckle. Remove the bolt in the shock fork. Remove the spindle nut. You may need a really long breaker bar and some strong arms and some one to push on the brakes so the rotor doesnt turn. Or you can use a prybar to hold it in place. Pull the knuckle off the cv joints.
Remove cotter pins in the clutch linkage and unble the linkage stay. It would help to mark the linkage before so you know where they were before in case they move. I got lucky.
Drain tranny fluid. Remove both axles by using a small prybar to remove. Becareful not to break the retaining rings. Also dont destroy the axle seals or tranny seals. Remove the intemediate axle on the drive side by removing 3 bolts and prying it out.
Remove the flywheel cover. Take a tranny jack and lift the tranny to lift the weight off the mounts. Remove the 5 bolts holding the rear engine mount to tranny. Remove the side tranny mount from the top. remove all retaining bolts from tranny to engine. Remove transmission by slowly pulling out of the engine. lower the tranny.
Now with the clutch visible, remove the pressure plate. It will need 12 point sockets for the pressure plate and flywheel. Remove the clutch disc and unbolt the flywheel. Be careful it is a little ackward to lift form underneath and watch for sharp teeth on the flywheel.
Installation:
Bolt flywheel to the engine. It should be about 74 ft/lbs. Mount up the pressure plate and disc. The pressure plate will only mount one way. 3 pin will hold it into place. Take a clutch allignment tool and put into place and tighten the pressure plate down. If you have trouble with the flywheel moving, it helps to have some one counter it with a prybar. Regrease the throwout bearing and mount into place. Mount the transmission back up. This was a little difficult for me...had to have a strong man help me...thank god my brother works out. anyway remount all bolts for the tranny, side mounts and rear mounts.
Reconnect the intermidiate shaft and bolt up. Regrease and reconnect the the axles. Put the hub on the axle. Reconnect shock fork and bolt up. Place steering knuckle back on the lower control arm. Put the bolt up the knuckle. Put the spindle nut back on and torque to 182 ft/lbs. Step the nut so it wont back out.
Reconnect all the sensors. Remount the starter. Replace battery and ground cables. Put the intake back on. Place wheels back on and lower car to the ground. Refill tranny. Reconnect the slave cylinder and hydraulic line. Bleed hydraulic line. Reconnect thge clutch linkage and be sure it is placed in correctly.

Now if I missed anything, please add it up to the thread.
The tools you will needs are:
8mm to 17mm sockets
lower control arm removal fork kit
High tempurature grease

I used pennzoil synchormesh tranny fluid. Seems to work pretty good.
Well this is what it looks like after the new stuff is mounted.



Now after i started it i wasl ike ok and so i drove it and was like whoa...its definately got more pep in the start off...it feels great. Im so exciting I can't wait til the break in period is done. But I shall wait and see. I will repost once that is done. It was definately a job I've never done before but it was well worth it. It is taking some getting use to the new pedal feel. It actually donest feel harder but my old clutch was pretty worn down.

Oh yeah and TSM Pikachu...thanks for the reccomendation, even though i know alot of you like ACT or Exedy.

Ps sorry for the limited pictures...I was more worried bout getting the job done
 

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wow thats funny.....i just got my exedy clutch and flywheel in the mail yesterday



thats alot for the pics and write up...these are well needed for me...
i dont know if im gonna do it with friends a pay the 190 for a mechanic.
 

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lol exactly...i asked the same..its an 11..but just a typo...i dont know why that hasnt been cleared..but as far as looks go....good stuff and he had fast shipping..cross country took 4 days
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
im taking it real easy so it breaks in good....and i didnt mention before the flywheel is 12 lbs
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well the one i bought was 12 lbs as stated by seller....and that one i really not sure about.....xtd was the only name i would go for besides ACT or Exedy
 

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i put mine on the bathroom scale..lol
also his rev speeds were changed alot...good stuff
i first knew i wanted to do this when my buddy build a b16 in his ef..i was like wow
then my clutch went out and i was like sweet!kinda so i got the packege
 

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Viper_yellow said:
I would need something to hold at least 300whp.......
clutches hold torque...not power....theoretically your stock clutch can take 300hp if the motor was tuned in such a way that the torque wasn't bumped up more than 15%
 

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Haha Somehow I dont think my stock clutch will hold up then.......huh ultra.
lol I think i may be going SLIGHTLY above a 15% increase in tq and hp

lol
and Spongin, no worries man you know i got you. Lemme know how it feels after break in. A lot of people said that stage 1 grabbed like a vice grip once it got broken in......or was that the stage 2..... hmmm hahahah
 

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also, there aren't really any staged clutch kits. you can mix and match parts from each type. cuz if you think about it, all single plate clutches should be considered "stage 1" then you have a double plate clutch which isn't even widely available for accords and so on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
well last night i decided to go for a drive for awhile...and man i can not wait to be able to really push on the gas....also that penzzoil synchomesh works really good...i cant even hear the synchronizers goin into place like before. the shifting is really smooth......just makes me wanna drive 500 miles today...just to break it in...lol :clap
 

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UltraMagneticAL said:
clutches hold torque...not power....theoretically your stock clutch can take 300hp if the motor was tuned in such a way that the torque wasn't bumped up more than 15%

i remeber my roomate saying something some very similar to that.he was pretty big on compacts. and auto X back in the day

also:does anyone have any more supporting photos?
 
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